Steve Koski Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I want to lighten up the trigger pull and perhaps put in a lighter recoil spring (Glock 17) and see if I can get less muzzle lift. I hear of a couple options: 1) Minus connector, Extra power trigger spring 2) Minus connector, Reduced power striker spring (say from 5.5 to 5.0 lbs) Whick do you recommend? Which is compatible with a reduced power (say 13 lb) recoil spring? Thanks, Koski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vluc Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I want to lighten up the trigger pull and perhaps put in a lighter recoil spring (Glock 17) and see if I can get less muzzle lift. I hear of a couple options: 1) Minus connector, Extra power trigger spring 2) Minus connector, Reduced power striker spring (say from 5.5 to 5.0 lbs) Whick do you recommend? Which is compatible with a reduced power (say 13 lb) recoil spring? Thanks, Koski Those are part of any equation. As are bullet weight and power factor you are running. A heavier recoil rod also helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I have a g17 and here are my mods. 15 lb recoil spring, reduced power safety spring, Jaeger lightened striker with a 4 lb firing pin spring, stock trigger spring, stock 5 lb. connector. This gives me a pretty good 3 lb trigger. I tried the minus connector this would get me down to 2.5 but I didn't like the feel. Tried the extra power trigger spring, but with the lightened striker spring reset didn't always work. I had no trouble setting off primers with the stock firing pin but for extra insurance went with the Jaeger. If in doubt you can just use federals. I have tried just about every combination available, even tried the ny+1 and the minus connector but trigger pull increased to 6 lbs but was nice. Of course everything is polished in accordance with the glock 25 cent trigger job. I tried the 13 pound recoil spring but sometimes would not go into battery. All of the springs work in conjunction with each other. You change one and it effects others, however most of the parts are cheap and that is what is fun, trying to find the right combination that fits your shooting style. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOOST Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 I want to lighten up the trigger pull and perhaps put in a lighter recoil spring (Glock 17) and see if I can get less muzzle lift. How's about increasing grip strength ? More effective in reducing muzzle lift than "stuffs" in IMHO . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Koski Posted November 7, 2012 Author Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) I have a long way to go with grip. It's on my list. Thanks Rooster! Edited November 7, 2012 by Steve Koski Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyGlock Posted November 7, 2012 Share Posted November 7, 2012 (edited) I prefer option 1 w/ oem trigger spring. Reliability is my priority. And it does not overpower my 13# ISMI rec spring. Trigger pull is down 2+#. But why mess w/ these if muzzle flip is your concern? Lighter rec spring is just a minor factor in recoil management imho. And If its a 9mm, the more its not much a concern. ETA: sorry I missed the lighter trigger pull concern. Still its option 1 for me. Edited November 7, 2012 by BoyGlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk94 Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 A "$.25" trigger job helps out with the smoothness of the pull as well. Youtube has some vids on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyGlock Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 My first line above should read: I prefer option 1 w/ oem STRIKER spring. My bad. Sorry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconoclast Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I found 3.5lb connector lightened and smoothed (ZEV) trigger action considerable, but made striker release difficult to determine. I also replaced trigger, striker, and safety plunger springs with good (reduced trigger effort) results. Contrary to popular opinion, I found the ".25 cent trigger job"/polishing job to be worthless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianQ Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 ZEV connector 4.5 striker spring Stock trigger spring Reduced power plunger Everything cleaned and polished Not too light, still positive reset Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 If you think you need anything more than a quick connector swap and a polish, I think you should seriously reevaluate your priorities. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 Contrary to popular opinion, I found the ".25 cent trigger job"/polishing job to be worthless. You may have paid too much for the labor ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beltjones Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 I want to lighten up the trigger pull and perhaps put in a lighter recoil spring (Glock 17) and see if I can get less muzzle lift. I hear of a couple options: 1) Minus connector, Extra power trigger spring 2) Minus connector, Reduced power striker spring (say from 5.5 to 5.0 lbs) Whick do you recommend? Which is compatible with a reduced power (say 13 lb) recoil spring? Thanks, Koski Every Glock is so different that it's impossible to say exactly what result you can expect, but here goes. 1) Minus connector will take some weight off the trigger (about 2 lbs typically), but it will make it spongy with a rolling break. The extra power trigger spring will make the pretravel lighter and take about .5 lbs off the total trigger pull. 2. The reduced power striker spring will dramatically change the feel of the trigger, and will make it about 1.5 lbs lighter in my experience. What I recommend is the Dot connector with an extra power striker spring and the stock striker spring. The dot will take about 1 lb off but not have the rolling spongy break of the minus connector. With a 13 lb spring you can still use the stock striker spring, but if you go lower than that you probably ought to go with a reduced power striker spring otherwise it could be dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlgentlegiant Posted November 8, 2012 Share Posted November 8, 2012 If you are going to get a new connector and you are willing/able to go away from stock go with a Zev or Ghost Rocket. Go with the extra power trigger spring but if you stay with the stock striker stick with stock weight striker spring (buy the spring kit from Zev and replace all of them). If you are changing recoil spring weight the 13# should be fine. Think about a SS guide rod if it is legal for your competition. Also think about a titanium safety plunger and lighter spring there. $.25 trigger job and pay attention to any surface that touches another. In my case it did not reduce any pull weight but it smoothed the pull out a lot. Be sure you pay attention to the: trigger safety plunger (top and sides) trigger bar where it touches the safety plunger trigger bar inner surface where it mates with the connector trigger bar to striker surfaces connector (yes even if you buy a Zev or Ghost give it a quick swipe with the Dremel) On the $.25 trigger job on both of my stock Glock trigger parts there were lots of machining marks and roughness. Getting rid of those can make things a lot crisper and more predictable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBP55 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 (edited) My experience has been a little different than Beltjones and as he said they vary slightly. 1. Minus connector approximately 16oz. reduction. Trigger spring 6# approximately 4oz. reduction. 2. The 4# firing pin spring approximately 16oz. reduction. Edited November 9, 2012 by JBP55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyGlock Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I stop using reduced striker spring as this make the gun unreliable unless I use federal primers. The lightest trigger pull I have w/ oem striker spring was 2#5oz initially then upped to 2#7oz (maybe the trigger spring had set) and 100% reliable on all primers i use, win cci russo(russia) fed. My set up is glockmeister trigger spring and Lw connector, everything else is oem and polished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Ryder Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 (edited) If you think you need anything more than a quick connector swap and a polish, I think you should seriously reevaluate your priorities. Yep! A glock trigger will NeVeR feel like a 1911 trigger, no matter what parts you change, polish, or swap. Do the .25 cent trigger job and maybe a little more, but keep it 100% reliable, no matter what primers you use. Get used to the glock trigger and focus more on shooting on the move, accuracy, and speed. A Master class shooter with a stock Glock will always win against a C class shooter with a $5000 open gun every day all day. Edited November 12, 2012 by Red Ryder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MI_Packer Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 1) Minus connector, Extra power trigger spring 2) Minus connector, Reduced power striker spring (say from 5.5 to 5.0 lbs) i All of the above plus tuning your load to work well with the lighter recoil spring. Reduced power striker springs sometimes require the use of federal primers. The extra power trigger spring is needed to keep the reset strong. Pickup a copy of the Glock in Competition by Robin Taylor, all of this and so much more is covered. Depending on the how you will use your Glock you might find a couple other options to be worthwhile. It's very difficult to get 2# trigger without changing the fulcrum location on the Trigger bar. And experienced shooter like yourself shouldn't have any trouble with handling these mods. Sent by someone using something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MI_Packer Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 A Master class shooter with a stock Glock will always win against a C class shooter with a $5000 open gun every day all day. But a C class Glock shooter will always be smoked by another C class shooter with a $5000 open gun. This supports the fact that gun modifications can help the shooter perform better. Sent by someone using something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Ryder Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 A Master class shooter with a stock Glock will always win against a C class shooter with a $5000 open gun every day all day. But a C class Glock shooter will always be smoked by another C class shooter with a $5000 open gun. This supports the fact that gun modifications can help the shooter perform better. Sent by someone using something. The point is that the gun plays such a small part. Priorities should be shooting on the move, speed , and accuracy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrf Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 (edited) I am using a lightened striker, 4lb striker spring, 2 lb safety spring(i think), minus connector, and an extra power trigger spring. Seems to good to be true. It has not failed to reset in 400 rounds at the range. Very short, very light. Any thoughts on issues I may run into? It seriously rivals the super light 1911 triggers I have used/ owned. Edit to add that it has the Glocktriggers Challenger trigger bar, also the FP safety spring that came with that trigger bar, so not sure of the weight. Edited December 15, 2012 by lrf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MNshooter Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Keep it stock with a $0.25 trigger job. Easy, cheap and dead nuts reliable. Glocks are basically as perfect as you can get for an out of the box, mass produced factory pistol. If you want to tinker to make a better gun, pick up a 1911. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonovanM Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 A Master class shooter with a stock Glock will always win against a C class shooter with a $5000 open gun every day all day. C class is all? Here are the two club matches I've shot this month. Granted my G34 isn't "stock", I did change the sights, replace the guide rod and recoil spring, and made the trigger heavier by swapping out the minus with a dot connector from a G17... http://combinedresults.info/index.php/match/6917 http://combinedresults.info/index.php/match/6849 Point is, I would highly advise people to learn to rock hard with the stock trigger in your gun of choice before modding it out. You can't buy skill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agent #1911 Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 A Master class shooter with a stock Glock will always win against a C class shooter with a $5000 open gun every day all day. C class is all? Here are the two club matches I've shot this month. Granted my G34 isn't "stock", I did change the sights, replace the guide rod and recoil spring, and made the trigger heavier by swapping out the minus with a dot connector from a G17... http://combinedresul....php/match/6917 http://combinedresul....php/match/6849 Point is, I would highly advise people to learn to rock hard with the stock trigger in your gun of choice before modding it out. You can't buy skill. I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GmanCdp Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 i have 2 Glock 34's i use.. 1 is stock trigger i practice with and another has a Vanek Classic i shoot in a match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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