practical_man

I will happily sign of for a kit from you!

WSF HP38 Bullseye (when I can find it)

Your machine sounds interesting. Sort of like an improved Camdex On board primer pocket swaging would be very useful for military calibers On board lighting Electric power automatic operation $1000 price point?

Absolutely We need this product

Hard to diagnose without looking at it. That said glock release the strike to fire when the connector pulls the trigger bar down sufficiently. Your problem sounds like tolerance stacking. The foot on the strike might be just a little longer on the 17 than the 34. Still within tolerance, but not quite right for the frame you are using. I would swap the strikers to see if that cures the problem. If it does, then you need to stone a bit off the offending striker foot. Blue sharpie or dykem would be useful to see where parts are rubbing. Hope this helps you in the quest for solutions

For Target loads in 12 gauge: Red Dot, WSF, WST, Clays, E3, not necessarily in that order. Titewad is also great for light loads For field loads in 12 gauge I really like Longshot, despite it's very LOUD report. Longshot also makes a great high velocity trap load. For 20 gauge, Hodgdon International, Hodgdon Universal, and Alliant 20/28 (when you can find it). ETA: Titegroup, because I don't have any right now but it's a great powder for light 12 gauge loads, especially with the 3/4 ounce claybuster wad.

I used a vise and hardwood blocks. Wrapped the barrel in paper with a little rosin to help it hold tight.

At my last duty station I shot a lot of trap, skeet, and 5 stand. A lot, like 10K shells a year. I normally don't clean hulls, just load till they split. Muddy hulls WITHOUT PAPER BASE WADS get a rinse in soapy water and dry in front of a fan. Hull with paper base wads get loaded once and tossed in the trash I have tried tumbling in corn cob. It just isn't worth the effort.

That was confusing, I'm sorry. Reworked it. Not great at writing things on my phone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I feel your pain with the phone. Autocorrect leaves a lot to be desired. There are lots of things that could cause function problems. Overall length can be a problem for sure. Before blaming the ammo I would do a deep clean on the pistol to get all the manufacturing lubes off and remove any chips etc. Also do the plunk test with each barrel to see if there is chambering trouble. Once you know the pistol is clean and the ammo fits, then you can tinker. I like to do break in the 115 grain ball ammo. Most guns will run it fine and it's cheap to load. Hope this helps

Dave Welcome! Almost all of the online sellers like gunsamerica, gunbroker, etc require shipping to an FFL for transfer. Even within the same state. Face to face sales can be done without a dealer in many states. Check local law to be sure about Nevada.

Very happy with our new case pro and Dillon case feeder. Money well spent. Should have taken the plunge years ago

I prefer Zero 115 grain JHP and 5.4 grains of WSF. Very accurate and not horrible recoil. For practice, I like the Blue Bullets 115 coated (cheap, accurate enough, and generally available). I also like the Precision Delta 124 JHP when Zero bullets aren't available (which is often). 4.6 grains Win 231 also works well for me in 9mm. Availability can be spotty. Titegroup and good old Bullseye also work just fine in 9mm too. Some folks like the 147 grain bullet for non-compensated guns. I have had trouble getting them to shoot accurately for me, but others do just fine with them. I prefer to stick with the 115s or 124/125 grain bullets. Winchester Small Pistol Primers or Federal Small Pistol Primers. Any US made primer will generally work well. Some folks like the Eastern European primers; I haven't had good luck with them. Online vendors. Powder Valley customer service has been superb for me; head and shoulders above their competition. I have no commercial affiliation with them other than being a very satisfied customer. Wideners is also another reliable source. All retailers have spotty availability of preferred components because of the shortages. Powder Valley will combine primers and powder in the same HAZMAT, up to 50 pounds NET weight. Wideners will also combine, but a smaller NET weight limit. I would recommend you buy a sleeve of 5000 primers and a smaller container of a couple powders you are interested in trying. An 8# jug of titegroup is a safe investment, along with a few 1 # containers of promising powders you want to try. If you don't like the titegroup, you probably wont have much trouble selling it to another shooter. Pick a primer, bullet weight and a known good 9mm powder. Search the archives for a couple starting loads and get to work. SAFETY and TOOLS. Forgive me if this sounds a little preachy; just want to emphasize safety. You really need a good set of calipers to measure overall length, a couple of good loading manuals (Lyman, Hornady, and Nosler come to mind immediately), and a good beam scale to go with your press and dies. An experienced mentor to help you set up the press and establish your procedure is highly recommended. Also, an inexpensive chronograph in virtually indispensable. A chrono really helps you understand pressures and velocity to make sure you safely make power factor. On sale, a chono can be had for about $100, give or take a few $. It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway. ALWAYS have only ONE type of powder at the loading bench at a time. It's just too easy to get confused and make a big mistake if you have more than one powder on the bench. I use painters tape to label the measure with the powder that's in it. I don't want to trust it to memory in case I get interrupted before I empty the measure at the end of loading a batch. Handloading is a rewarding part of the hobby. Great fun once you get some experience under your belt. The possibilities are nearly endless for off-season entertainment. This is probably a little more than you asked. Just wanted to share a little additional detail for a newer handloader. Hope this helps you.

The equation, crimp diameter = 2x brass thickness + bullet diameter is a good guide to start: For Autoloaders! Revolvers are a whole different animal, even 9mm revolvers. For autoloaders just remove the flare to ensure no bullet setback (push test) and good feeding (plunk test). That's the long answer. The short answer is that I usually crimp 9mm pistol (not revolver) ammo to .377 using .355 nominal jacketed bullets. This generally results in best accuracy and no damage to bullet jacket, plating, or coating. You may want to crimp a little tighter with slower powders to get better combustion and bullet pull. If you are using mixed headstamp brass in a batch, you will want to err on the side of tighter crimp to prevent bullet setback in the brass with thinnest walls.

Thanks for the pointer. At that price I can't afford not to try some

^^^^This I have better performance using .357 or .358 lead projectiles in 9mm production pistols. BlueBullets brand .358 125 grain bullets run fine in my 9mm glock.

Tooth guy comes closest to the core of the analysis. Anything you don't enjoy doing is costly in terms that matter - time away from things you enjoy. If you really enjoy something, you make it a priority and budget accordingly. If you're trying to justify it to a significant other based on dollars, you might be missing the point completely. Doing things you enjoy brings energy and enthusiasm to your relationships. This is truly priceless. Once the kids are fed, clothed and housed, everything else is a matter of setting priorities. If you love to ahoot, you can make it work by driving a cheaper car, brown bagging your lunch, etc. If how you spend money is a friction point with wife or girlfriend then shooting not cost isn't the problem. Control is the problem and you need to fix that first. In my experience control battles are indicators of trust problems. Now to your question, as other have noted shooting is cheap compared to fishing or flying. I usually spend less than $50 on a match, including lunch and gas. The hardware- pistol, holster, etc is sunk cost so I just amortize it. Really, the guns I shoot cost nothing compared to ammo for a year, but I don't own a custom built 1911 that I didn't build. I really like shooting production or Revolvers. My most pricey handgun is a revolver that Toolguy fixed up for me. Best return on investment I have ever had in guns. He is a truly gifted machinist and teacher. So back to the point. Don't try to justify based on fiat currency. The things than matter most are how much you enjoy the surplus in your life: surplus time for leisure, surplus money for joy, and surplus energy for the people who matter in your life.

^^^ This. Plus a little Dextron Automatic Transmission fluid.

My experience mirrors young eyes and warp speed. I really like Varget. It's the first powder unused with Heavy .224 bullets and it is supremely consistent. I load it using the standard Dillon measure. It sounds like corn flakes in the measure, but steady technique produces great results.

I had mine sprayed with duracoat after doing some machine work on it. Duracoat does its job of rust prevention pretty well. It does scratch with use. It comes in many colors. My slide was bead blasted to remove much of the old finish. Spray finish is probably his easiest solution. Hard chrome is always an option too

It very much depends on the child. For several years I volunteered at our Skeet club. We taught new shooters frequently. Many dads brought kids who weren't physically strong enough to control the shotguns. That makes for a rough start for the kids. Lesson #1: Dry fire to build safe gun handling before trying live fire with kids. Other kids (mostly boys in the 8-10 years range) weren't mature enough to pay attention to safety. Horseplay is common among energetic boys. Less so with girls, or at least those at our club. Lesson #2. Frequent breaks when training children. Think of it as a recess. Like most things in life, age is irrelevant to competence. Test the basic skills to gauge interest and try to make things fun for kids. Checkers or shooting, the principle is the same: each person is ready when they are ready. They are interested or not. They have the physical coordination and maturity or they don't. The only way to find out is teach and test, a little at a time, and make things as fun as possible.

Does the bolt touch the frame opening in front? It not, you could lengthen the slot a bit to allow better protrusion. That would be an easy fix. You would have to remove side plate and internals though.

^^^This. I learned it the hard way. New brass sticks easily. I use a little case lube even with carbide dies. A little lube really smooths things out and makes it better for everyone New brass may or may not give consistent bullet pull. I size all new brass before loading now. I don't want to repeat the set back problems of the past

Shoot a bunch of different revolvers at a rental range. I like the K Frame S&W with a 4" barrel. It generally fits most people well. They run forever. Easy to learn to shoot well with 38 Special loads. Enough mass that recoil isn't punishment. Small enough to carry concealed if you choose to. And the list goes on. Many great values on police or prison guard trade-in revolvers. Ruger Double Action revolvers are a close second, though their DA trigger is somewhat heavier I have had Taurus and Rossi as a result of trades. I DO NOT recommend them. A used S&W or Ruger is a more reliable choice in my experience. Training and Practice are essential parts of firearms ownership. This can't be over emphasized. Good luck in the quest. Shooting rental guns with an experienced coach is probably the best education for your friends. It will do more to help them make an informed decision than anything else.

Everyone has their special approach on this. Most all will work well enough. I use non chlorinated brake cleaner to get old oils and powder residue off. Quick, easy, and cheap. You MUST lube after doing this or you will get serious rust. Mobil 1 synthetic 30W is what I use on all my 1911 pattern pistols. It works and generally stays where it belongs. I have found it works better than greases. 1911s run better wet and relatively clean. I use a brass oversize brush to clean the chamber. That's important to good function. Use the solvent of your choice. I like a 50/50 mix of Dexteon AUtomatic Transmission Fliud and Mineral Spirits. Cheap and effective. Bore cleaning is generally just a nylon brush using the above solvent. If there is metallic fouling the no use a snug fitting brass brush to remove it. Wipe off the outside and re-lube to prevent rust. I use the same routine with Glocks or spendy small shop built pistols. It's just a machine. Cleaning is just part of the maintenance process. No need to over think it or go crazy with special products. You probably have all the lube and cleaners you need in your garage right now.

As other have said, a scope that will resolve .22 holes at 300 yards requires great glass and is spendy. My Leupold won't get the job done on a standard high power target. It will do it at 200 but not 300. I use a spotting scope for more than hits. It is helpful in reading mirage for sight corrections. If you just want to see hits a target camera is probably the way to go now. If you are shooting high power or f class, I would save up for a Kowa of your choice.