practical_man

I used Federal brass mostly. Sometimes PMC. Sometimes Lake City. Whatever is available locally. Federal brass isn’t the best. Primer pockets start getting loose after 3 or 4 loadings. Not a real problem. Just need a couple buckets to keep brass segregated. A blown own primer from loose pockets isn’t catastrophic but it is annoying if the primer happens to fall into a place that interferes with trigger group. From my experience, Lake City suffers the same problem with softer case heads compared to other brands. Lake City brass might have less internal volume than Federal. And it might not. My limited sampling is not conclusive. I stopped worrying about it. I just chrono batches when I change components. A chrono might be the most useful $100 spent in hand loading gear. I have had a couple over the years. A PACT and a Chrony brand. They both worked fine.

Using Hornady 2267B bullets and Winchester small rifle primers.

25.5 grains of 748 wil get you close. Or an equivalent dose of 322. I have ave been using win 748 lately because it’s available. I get about 3000 FPS velocity from a generic 20” barrel.

Tough to diagnose without looking at it. How many rounds on bolt/barrel combination? Any unusual visible shiny marks on bolt, esp back of locking lugs? On bolt body? Does it bind when hand cycling? With and without dummy rounds? Is headspace measurement in tolerance?

I really like the Lucas products. Their extreme duty greases are excellent. I haven't as much experience with oils. I have been using Mobil 1 and Royal Purple with good results for years.

Synthetic motor oil works well for me.

This is my experience too. And empirically I have found 45 cases get a little shorter after several loadings. Counter intuitive, but it seems to hold for me. I built my Ball Gun and Wad Gun with adult supervision from the Quantico shop. Kart barrels. We cut the chambers to SAMMI minimum. Both pistols about 2.5" groups at 50 yards from a rest. No malfunctions in a normal 2700 match shooting the 45 in both CF and 45 events. If your pistol runs, leave it alone. You could theoretically get a long piece of brass and have a problem, but that problem would most likely be failure to go into battery rather than a kaboom. 45 is very low pressure. I wouldn't worry. I would just enjoy the accuracy and focus on sight alignment and trigger control.

This^^^^ 50 yard accuracy is hard to create with the 9mm 1911. My best load is 5.4 WSF with 115 HAP or 115 Zero JHP. That's a pretty stiff load. A KKM barrel helped with accuracy quite a bit. Sierra 115 JHP are commonly used with good result. I haven't tried any because the HAP works for me and the Zero JHP is hard to find in bulk. My experiment with 9mm Bullseye is over. I have gone back to the 45 across the course. Easier to load for and actually easier to shoot accurately. YMMV.

Very nice! I have a special place in my heart for projects that breathe new life into old revolvers.

A call to S&W customer service would likely result in a gratis set sent to your mailbox. I don't have a TRR8. I have had good results getting screws and such from S&W and ruger customer service

Maybe. Ive shot a bunch of both through ARs. 55 and 62 grain bullets don't show any practical difference in accuracy between cannelured and not from a 20" WOA service rifle barrel. Hornady and Sierra bullets have been very consistent for me. Brass prep and loading techniques seem to matter much more than presence or absence of cannelure if you are going to crimp at magazine length, the cannelure is helpful.

I quit using grip tape on carry pistol for the same reason. Some swear by talon grip. I. Ever tried it. I finally just stippled the plasitc frame bottom feeder. Should have done it years ago. Once the iron is hot, you're committed. I would use a very fine tip, light pressure, and high heat. Take your time and it will be fine.

Have you checked to see if the cylinder latch clears the recoil face? Some don't; requires relieving the forward edge of cylinder latch so it can trace farther. I have had a couple revolvers that way.

Is the problem unlatching or actually rotating the cylinder out of the frame?

I drill a couple holes thru the brass on my dummy rounds. Less likely to make a mistake that way. YMMV

1911Prof Isolating these things can be a challenge. It could be ammo, or maybe not. GMM50 gives good advice on starting with consistent factory ammo as a baseline. Have you checked to see if the light strike is consistently on a single chamber? If not, it might be worthwhile to number your chambers and track the data a bit. Light DA pulls require everything to be almost perfect. Crane alignment, ejector rod (unless it floats at the distal end), crane-cylinder interface and endshake... and of course deep seated primers. Lots of variables. Most easy to correct with hand tools. Sometimes one needs a talented machinist to correct a factory error, especially with how cylinders are cut and chambers are finished The easy "fix" is to add more energy to the hammer impact on primer. Lighter hammer, stronger spring tension or a combination of both will do it. Often at the expense of that elusive light DA pull we seek. Please keep us updated ted on your progress. These puzzles are informative and interesting.

Those bent moons will act like a spring to absorb hammer energy before everything is crushed against the cylinder face for ignition. Maybe only on 1 or 2 chambers, depending on how things align. Ben clips can also cause cylinder dragging or binding. At least they do on my 627, which is a different animal that the 9mm. I learned He hard way about cheap moon clips and 38 Special. Brass

Prof a good cleaning never hurts. All manner of gunk can slow down the internals. I dont have a 929. I have a bunch of S&W revolvers of various vintages. What you describe sounds to me like excessive endshake, caused by moderate peening of the cylinder yoke (which is never cut square at the factory). Easy to fix. Could it be your moon clip/ brass combination is mimicking excessive endshake? Maybe a case of tolerance stacking working against you. ToolGuy or one of the real experts will be along soon to shine some light in this.

The brass bushing under the powder bottle is likely slipping and binding the bar. Those bushings wear out. They can also be installed upside down and will cause the bar to lock up. -John

Rick 22s news to be cleaned often. Chamber and breech face are the key areas. I use an oversize brush for chamber - a .25 caliber rifle brush. Just clean out the chamber with a few twists of the brush and oil. Bolt face and ejector need to clean. Brush off with stuff nylon brush. Oil to keep the crud soft. Pull the bolt every 500-1000 rounds, as you prefer. Clean with non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray. Oil and replace. I rarely clean 22 barrels. When I do, I use a nylon bore brush. Magazines get a spray with compressed air after sonic cleaning. 10-22 magazines aren't all that trivial to assemble, so I avoid it. YMMv. I don't have a kidd rifle, just a wal mart 10-22 with a little home tinkering.

I like ToolGuys sights. Have them on a number of revolvers. He is listed in the Vendor Tent under Protocol Design. Warren does good work.

As a general purpose cast bullet the 158 Semi Wadcutter is had to beat. The RCBS 150 grain mold is good, as are many others. If you like casting, Look at Accurate Molds. Tom has many good designs and his work is excellent. I cast 125 grain round nose revolver bullets for 9mm and 38 SPL light loads. For General purpose, I use a 158 grain Keith Style Semi Wadcutter. The heavier bullets seem to be consistently more accurate at distance. Measure your throat dimensions in both revolvers. Cast to fit the cylinder throats will give best accuracy. White Label Lube has excellent bullet lubes for sizer or tumble Lube. They are very affordable and good people. If you want to buy cast bullets, just pick one of the major HiTek Lube dealers and purchase by the case. I use Bayou Bullets when I don't cast my own

Ed's Red is basically what I am using. I left out the acetone and adjust mix accordingly. Kerosene has a distinctive smell but works great as a solvent. It has has also been polymer safe for me, without the acetone.

I use a homebrew cleaner. Equal parts Dextron ATF, mineral spirits, and Kerosene. Does no harm that I can see. Cleans very well

For skeet, I use just two cylinder chokes. For double trap, light mod first, then improved mod on top. For sportibg clays, it depends on the array. I tend to use less choke than others do. Works better with the lighter payloads I prefer. In 12 gauge I use 3/4 ounce claybuster wads for targets under 35 yards. 1 ounce for everything else. For 20 gauge, it's 3/4 ounce for everything. If course smaller shot size for close targets. Larger for longer ranges.