practical_man

Dan, With wheelguns, I do as you described. Use the joint of index finger to apply pressure to the trigger. I am transitioning to that technique with the autoloader too -- Brian Zins teaches that approach in his conventional pistol clinic. I also use the same technique with the service rifle -- First joint of index finger against the edge of trigger. Works better than all the other things I've tried. -john

Clark or EGW. Both work fine

Postal - your load will make a difference. I run 17 pound mainsprings in all my 45s and EGW firing pin stops. With hardball ammo I use a 19 pound recoil spring. Lighter loads get less recoil spring. Sear spring is what makes the most difference in trigger pull unless you're going to change the hammer and sear engagement surfaces. None of that is hard to do and parts are relatively cheap when you make a mistake. Start with a good polish on engagement surfaces and reduce sear spring pressure. Make sure you keep enough pressure on the disconnector leg of the spring. -john

Case length and reload times if shooting major which is what I want to do with it. .357 mags ain't fast to reload and shooting 175 rounds of them ain't fun either. Plus the ROs get cranky. If you want .40 then do it. You will probably go there envy way, so save the cost of the intermediate step with 38 super.

That's an idea I hadn't thought of. Thanks Warren

Mikethor - 5.4 grains of 231 makes a very accurate load with good 230 grain LRN bullets. bump to 5.6 for 230 FMJ -john

I'm trying to get a response from Kytac about my unfilled order. Anyone know how to get in touch with David? I've sent many emails, called numerous times, and sent snail mail to the address on his website (http://www.kytac.com/). No response. There must be a valid reason it's taking so long to ship the TACPAC I ordered in September (paid through PayPal). I understand that there are many possible reasons for the delays, particularly for a small shop. I do want to get the product or a refund -- soon. Anyone know how to reliably get in touch with him? Thanks, -john

GJ -- I also have the Sevigny sights on my G17. Had the same problem with 120 grain LRN and 4.0 grains Winchester 231 (a VERY slow load). You need a taller front sight or a lower rear sight to lower the POI with the same ammunition. Heavier bullets may or may not lower the POI, depending on velocity. Slower velocities generally have higher POI for any given bullet weight (at pistol ranges), at least that's my experience. I had good luck getting POI=POA at 25 yards by speeding up my load a little. I'm now using 4.4 grains W231 (book maximum for this powder bullet combination). You might also experiment a little to figure out how much to take off the rear sight. A little masking tape will help you find the right height. It won't take very much to change the POI. Here's and example of how to determine the amount of metal to remove to shift your POI (Shamelessly copied from Brownells) Correcting Sight Height If your rifle or pistol is shooting high or low, there is a formula you can use to determine what the correct height for your sight should be. Terms Amount of Error: Measure in inches the distance from the bullseye to your shot. Sight Radius: Distance in inches from the front sight to the rear sight. * Distance to Target: The distance in inches from your shooting position to the target. Note: Be sure that your rear sight is at its mid-point before you shoot. Formula Amount of Error X Sight Radius = Sight Correction Needed Distance to Target If you are shooting low, you would replace your front sight with a lower sight, and conversely, if you were shooting high, then you would replace your front sight with a higher sight. Add or subtract the number of thousandths needed to the actual height of your sight and you will have the correct height of the replacement sight. Example At 100 yards, your shot is 6" low and the distance between your front and rear sight is 19.5". 6 X 19.5 = .0325 3600 Since you are shooting low, you would need to lower your front sight by .032". So for your pistol, it seems that (3.5 incles low x 6.75" sight radius)/(20 yards x 36 inches/yard) = 23.625/720 = 0.0328 inches. Lower your rear sight by 0.03 inches and you should be pretty close. A smooth file, blue magic marker, a steady hand and a brave heart will get you there. Touch up with cold blue or a little rust blue. Good luck

Love the Glock 21. I have not trouble controlling the pistol and I have medium sized hands. Mine is a 1st GEN G21. It is, hands down, my favorite glock and my favorite self-loading pistol. I just put Sevigny fiber optic sights on it today. Great sights. I like them better than the Hiene straight 8's on my G30. Unless you have tiny hands you'll like the G21.

Old-style flat extractor. I'll get a new extractor and ejector. They're cheap enough Thanks, John

I have no idea how many rounds on the ejector. It isn't bent down. I'll try holding the mag up to see if that's a contributing factor. thanks, john

Problem: Last round of every magazine fails to eject. Empty brass is usually 90degrees to bore axis, case head facing away from the ejection port. This only happens when there is no round remaining in the magazine. If there is a round in the magazine, the pistol consistently ejects over my right shoulder. I've tested this with 1, 5, 10, and 16 rounds in the magazine. Same result, last round fails to fully eject. Details. - Happens with Winchester White Box and UMC factory ammunition as well as reloads (125grain over 4.2 grains of 231 and WSP primer) - Pistol is a 1st GEN Glock 17. Box says it's a factory rebuild. Pistol is bone stock, except for a Lone Wolf 3.5 pound connector. - Failure to eject occurs with the two 17 round magazines that came with the pistol, as well as 3 factory Glock magazines I bought from Brownell's last month. - Happens whether pistol is dirty or just cleaned. - I have completely disassembled the slide for cleaning. That didn't help. I put one small drop of oil inside the extractor channel. A little slide-glide on the rails. - The ejector looks fine. No chips, no cracks. Angled to the right so it hits the round a little left of center. ETA: This doesn't happen with my G19 or G21. I don't think it's operator limp-wristing at the end of the string of fire. This is driving me a little nuts. Any ideas? -john

100% success rate is good enough for me. Thanks

anyone tried slide glide for assembling an AR15 upper? I'm thinking about using it for a build soon if it doesn't contain graphite. thanks, john