Tanders

They're great! Way more durable than the factory ones and lighter to boot. I've only had one break, but I dry fire quite a bit. If you're worried about it breaking on you, just switch to a fresh one before major matches and then back to a beater spring for club matches or practice. That way most of the rounds go on one spring and the other stays fresh.

I had the same problem with a brand new SP-01 Shadow. The thing shot 8" high at 30 feet. I think the barrel lockup is weird on some of them which causes them to shoot high. The second one I bought shoots dead on with the factory sights. If your buddy wants to go the adjustable rear sight route, he will probably have to replace the front as well since the adjustable rears are usually too tall to function with factory front sights. Dawson Precision sells matched front and rear fixed sight sets that quite nice and pretty easy to install. They also have a calculator on their site that allows you to determine the correct height front sight to adjust your POI (in case he wants to replace just the front). Just be sure you get a sight that is cut for the CZ 75 or SP-01 and not any of Shadows since the rear sights for these models are not interchangeable (front sights are the same for both, however).

Anybody have any feedback regarding how the trigger on the ASG compares to an actual Shadow? I always teased around with getting one, but couldn't justify it without handling one first.

Started out in B class and made M in almost exactly one year. Been in M for a year and now I'm getting really close to GM (94.3%). I try to live fire once a week and dry fire for an hour 5 nights a week (usually ends up being more like 3 nights a week). I feel like I get more out of dry firing than I do live fire just because I can get more reps in and it's more accessible. Most of my dry fire is focused on gun handling; I work on movement a bit more during live fire.

Can't pull off a solid "FlipN'Catch" with a Glock, though. The round just kind of dribbles out of the chamber. That may have been 3% of the reason why I started shooting CZs. Those bad boys lob ejected rounds into the lower stratosphere.

I practiced the flip and catch before I even shot my first match because I knew that no woman would ever have me if I ejected the chambered round onto the ground. Since perfecting the "FlipN'Catch" (registered trademark), my bald spot has filled in, my sexual endurance is endless, I can parallel park on the first try everytime, and my accountant now asks me for advice on his taxes. "FlipN'Catch"... Unload and show clear with CLASS.

The biggest change I notice when I'm squadded with other shooters at or above my level is that I drop a lot fewer Cs since I'm focusing harder. Probably should be shooting like that all the time, but shooting too fast with worse points is kinda fun.

It almost seems like Vlieger is shooting so fast he's breaking minor scoring. His shot cadence in his Bluegrass video isn't any different than when he is shooting Open. Tons of Cs, Ds, and Ms (comparatively), but he did it so freaking fast!

I have only shot Production since starting out in USPSA and a few months ago I thought it might be fun to try out Limited for a change. I have always poo-pooed hi-cap stage plans since they only have one reload to remember, tons of extra rounds, and they can eat Charlies like a fat kid eats cake. How hard can that be, right? A monkey could do it. Holy crap, was I wrong! I never realized before how much I use the time I spend on reloads to reorient myself while shooting a stage. First stage I get a two mike FTSA, followed by several more stages with forgotten stage plans. I immediately decided Limited wasn't for me and crawled back into the 10-round hole from which I came. I'm M-class, for pity's sake! My fragile ego can't handle FTSAs! As it turns out, it takes a monkey with a reasonably high IQ to immediately remember a 16 target sequence rather than a whole bunch of little 3 or 4 target sequences. Moral of the story: hi-cap stage plans require a bit more focus and rehearsal than is immediately apparent.

I got curious after reading a few more posts, so I fooled around with it for half an hour last night. Easily shaved a tenth off my draw time, but it doesn't feel like my hand is seated firmly enough against the beavertail of the gun some of the time. Probably just a practice thing.

I generally slap the trigger on freestyle shots with pretty decent accuracy, but this never work too well for SH/WH. I just recently started prepping the trigger up to the wall on all one-handed shots and it seems to minimize any inward pushing of the gun. It also doesn't slow down splits too much if you get the reset and prep done while the gun is recoiling. Practicing the trigger prep in dry fire has been really helpful.

Yes, the accuracy was nice, but not enough to justify 9 freakin' cents a bullet.

I made M in Production one year after initially classifying B. Currently my classifier average is at 94.3%. Never taken a class or reshot a classifer. I don't shoot that often (maybe three times per month), but I dryfire quite a bit (usually for an hour or so five nights per week). Making M or GM really isn't that hard if you are keeping to a regular practice schedule and you are actively looking for new learning material online (e.g., YouTube videos, forum posts, etc.). However, being able to shoot a 90+% on a classifier doesn't do much to help you clear 80% at nationals (something I have yet to do). There is so much more to the game that classifiers don't test.

I used to use rice as tumbling media until I got addicted to wet tumbling. Wet tumbling is where it's at, kids! The stainless steel tumbling media can be reused forever and all you need to add is a bit of dish detergent. Cheap AND your brass looks downright sexy when you're finished! Just make sure to dry it in a food dehydrator or oven so that you don't get squibs (been there, done that).

I also get stuck going first pretty often because of my last name. However, my first stage is usually one of my best since I'm nervous and I mentally rehearse it a lot more. You might want to try visualizing the stage until you can flow through it in your mind without having any "Ummm... what was I going to do next?" moments. One thing I started doing at major matches last year was filming my stage plans and then watching them the night before. Something about going to sleep with the stage plan in my head really seems to help, but your mileage may vary.

JHPs were always slightly more accurate for me (<2" groups at 25 yards benchrested). If I had to guess, I would say that it's because the hollow point results in a longer bullet in order to maintain the same weight, thereby providing more bearing surface for the rifling. HPs also look REALLY cool, so you get to look like a baller when you're loading your mags.

Cajun Gun Works is also pretty great. I heard that they also do most of their slide lightening internally rather than milling a slot in the slide, but I have no idea if that's true or not.

Kind of resurrecting a dead thread, but does anyone know if Eric was shooting a Shadow 2 when he won the Extreme Euro Open this year? He laid a pretty good whoopin' on everybody else who showed up.

I was at a smaller firearms trade show last year and I asked one of the guys at the FN-USA booth what happened to Dave. The guy said that FN-USA has backed off of promoting their shooting team and hence has shifted Dave to other projects. Too bad. The last time I remember see his name on PractiScore was when he won Area 2 and Area 6 in 2017.

I would say transitions are a fair bit easier in CO, especially on longer shots since you don't have to shift focus between the front sight and the target when you're using a dot. Just look where you want the bullet to go and wait for the dot to show up at that spot (assuming you have a solid index).

I think Jacob Hetherington does the scoop draw. Check out his Instagram. Pretty snappy first shot on most stages!

I, too, do the "bumpfire" thing that someone mentioned earlier. You can get some crazy fast splits doing that, but my grip has to be mush in order to pull it off. I don't think I've ever done it on a target past 5 yards. On a side note, my splits sped up a bit when I started using the very tip of my finger to pull the trigger rather than the first joint. I assume it's because the finger needs to pivot through a smaller arc in order to move the tip by the same amount compared to the first joint.

Yong is a beast! There's a video that he put up where he mentions that he only puts his finger there so that he can get higher up on the gun. If you watch his older videos when he's shooting CZs, 2011s, or Tanfos (before he joined Team Sig), he doesn't have a finger in front of the trigger guard.

I used to carry a Glock 43 until I started competing with a CZ SP-01 Shadow. I liked the CZ so much that I sold the G43 and picked up a CZ 75 Compact. Very easy to conceal appendix and SO much more shootable than the G43!

What part of your index finger do you use to pull the trigger? I originally used the crease of the first knuckle, but awhile back I switched to using the very tip of my finger (even on double action shots). This seems to be a lot more accurate since almost all of the pivoting action comes from the second knuckle which is desirable since any motion of the third knuckle (where the finger meets your palm) is going to push the gun sideways and disturb your sight picture. As an added bonus, you will probably be able to fire faster split with the tip of your finger compared to the first joint. Here's an excellent video by the late Michael Voigt in which he talks about this topic (skip to the 3:30 mark for a discussion about trigger control):