Intheshaw1

After covering the basics of having good, well run stages, I value my time the most. Don't waste my time by not starting promptly, having significant delays during the day, or run way past when it's supposed to be done. I want to get in, shoot and have fun, and get out. As for the prize table, I agree that they should be a random draw. Of course honor top places with trophies and some cash if you can afford it, but have the prize table for every one else. I don't got to matches because of the prize tables but it's sure nice to get something. I golf as well in a lot of outings and charity fundraisers and I see this to be very similar. Sure, the top golfers are honored with a trophy and usually some gift cards but the prizes are given out randomly. Side question, I'm assuming for the most part the people winning are already sponsored, do they even care about the prizes other than the resale value?

Looks like I'll just wait for the 1100 at this point.

I would assume all dots are mechanically zeroed and it's the person's skill level that changes poi. The dot moves around in the window in relation to the person's sight line. If you can see the dot, that's where the bullet should go. I trained extensively in the Army with red dots on rifles and sometimes a rifle would break during training and you would just borrow another and the scores rarely changed. I've also taken a new privates rifle who had trouble zeroing it and got it dialed in for him and he turned around and shot 40 out of 40. I believe the same is correct for scopes as there are 2 pieces of glass, but only one crosshair. I could be wrong, but that's my experience with red dots and how it was explained to me in relation to rifles. I would think it would be the same for pistols as well.

Thanks! And your video on this is great as well.

Yep, that's what free me in to the 3 gun world. I haven't done any crazy large matches yet but the matches at my club are more intense than the USPSA type matches. Even small bays can get you running around a lot depending on the positioning of the guns.

So I understand the transition with legs not arms, but do you keep your core in a fixed position or allow it to 'coil' up? I used to be big into golfing and understood the explosiveness of transitioning the swing with you core and driving with your legs. My concern with this same approach for shooting is creating unwanted tension. I haven't experimented with it too much to know what works better but I feel like a transition with core for small transitions while adding legs for longer ones would be the fastest. Of course, keeping your arms in a somewhat fixed position.

I guess that's one way to deal with the issue of changing calibers. I'm going to end up going straight to the 1050 when I can find a good deal on one. Was thinking about adding a 550 later for calibers I don't use often but I like your idea of a fleet of 1050s.

That's been my problem in finding a 1050. It's either nearly the same price as new, which at that point I'll just buy new or it was used commercially. Maybe I'll have to actually go on Facebook and see what's on there. Ive been having my wife look on market place but looks like reloading groups may be better.

I guess it would depend on the size of your back pockets. I did that when I started 3 gun and it worked fine for me. I then made myself a kydex mag pouch and it just feels a lot more secure.

Why not just ask for the WSB to be updated to include something like 'engange the poppers, perform mandatory reload, then engage the paper OR engage the paper, perform mandatory reload, then engage the paper.' I hate ambiguous wording as it does leave open a bit of doubt for the correct call. At least it would be fixed going forward.

The ones I've seen all have had automation but I'm not looking to spend that kind of money yet. Unfortunately, the one really good deal I saw on BE a few months ago was lost to me as I lost reception out on the golf course and it was sold by the time I had reception again...

Where is out there? The only ones I've found were from businesses the loaded commercially. I've only seen a handful of decent 1050s pop up and they are sold right away.

Call them. When I was looking for parts for my franchi I called them and they picked right up and helped me with a few questions I had and literally packed up the box as I was on the phone with them.

I think a lot of it comes down to the whole 'it's how we've always set them up.' I feel like that stages I shoot locally are pretty good but we have a handful of great shooters that do actually help with set up and stage design.

I tend to count during the walkthrough to plan my reloads and focus on the reload spot. If I feel like I'm missing more than I planned, I'll do my reload as soon as I can but then reload again at my predetermined spot so I can get back to the original plan.

I guess it depends on what you consider to be 'power factor.' Is it the amount of felt recoil or the amount of damage (power) inflicted on the targets? If you shoot a pocket gun with more flt recoil, should that be a major power factor?

Good rain gear isn't cheap. I have a cheap set of rain gear that I usually keep in my truck. It's light weight and won't break the bank if I ruin it while shooting. But I usually skip that week if it looks like rain. The rain isn't so much am issue as the mud that comes with it.

I get that you're trying to save money but in the end it will cost a lot more. If you buy the DAA pouches and end up not wanting then for whatever reason, they would have good resale value here. The cheap Chinese knock offs not so much. And a +1 for not supporting the Chinese theft of IP....

How far off were the mags in length? Makes me want to pull out the calipers and check all my mags....

I think there is a minimum quality that those don't hit. I would think Glock, M&P, etc would be on the minimum quality side and accessories side of thing.

There are 2 really good open shooters I shoot with. If I shoot after them I see myself shooting way to fast as compared to if I shoot before them. I'm really thinking about turning off my ear muffs and walking to another bay if it happens again next year.

I agree, ive never run into anyone less than helpful and fun to be around. Curious to hear about the outcome of this.

Was at a club match where after the gun was cleared he holstered it and the holster broke and the gun swung around on his belt flagging the whole squad behind him there were about to tape. Luckily it was just cleared but no one likes staring down a barrel.

I run a Glock because that's what I have and it's a cheap entry point. But I hate the argument of a budget gun beating an expensive gun as money is all relevant but skill is usually the deciding factor. I know people that balk at a 5k pistol but is it any different than buying a 5k watch? I don't hear anyone saying that the guy with the Rolex can tell time so much better than the guy with the Timex. I do feel like the gun and gear are the about the cheapest part of getting into this game if you plan to take it seriously and shoot a lot. So you might as well shoot something you enjoy to shoot.

I'm sure it is a bit much but id like to think I'm pretty good at tinkering. If I can find a really good deal on a 550 first I may buy that as well. I'm looking at eventually ending up with a 1050/1100 for my main rounds and a 550 for those one off rounds that's not worth the cost of getting another tool head for the 1050.