SteelCityShooter

I only see one drawback to having Primary Machine mill the slide. They mill to a specific sight's footprint so if you want to try a different sight, you are out of luck. For example, I have a Leupold Delta Point Pro on my 5" M&P9 2.0 using Leupold's rear sight replacement dovetail mount. If I want to use a different sight, say the new Trijicon SRO, all I need is a replacement base from Trijicon, EGW, etc. If I have Primary Machine do my slide I'm stuck with the current design Delta Point Pro forever. A better and more versatile arrangement would be to mill the slide to take various adapter plates the way Glock, S&W Core or other factory optics ready guns are set up.

This is an industry that can't standardize on something as simple as a rear sight dovetail. With a couple of exceptions (Novak, Bomar) every maker has to have their own proprietary dovetail. For just the FF3/Viper/Venom footprint, EGW lists 29 different auto pistol dovetail adapter plates. Standardize? Don't be silly!

I don't think it's a factory cover and Holosun's web site says nothing about a cover for the 510 even as an accessory. That Amazon offer is a combination of the 510 with a cover. They don't specify who the maker is but it looks like the Scopecoat discussed above. They have several other offers of the 510 alone with no cover.

I just got the Scopecoat for the EOTech XPS2 and 3 and it fits very well, almost as if it was made specifically for the Holosun. Thanks again for the recommendation.

I saw Scopecoat's web site and a few of their models looked like they might work but I couldn't tell which one. Thanks for the recommendation.

Does anyone make a sight cover for the Holosun 510C? A search of all the usual makers and suppliers turned up nothing. Thanks.

The dot is adjusted and zeroed with the windage and elevation screws which are mechanical adjustments. All the battery does is light the diode so changing the battery will not alter the zero. There are some red dot sights that have to be removed from the gun to change the battery so you want to recheck your zero after reinstalling them but the DPP allows battery changes while it is still mounted on the gun.

Another possibility is that modern powders can contain additives to reduce muzzle flash, prevent copper fouling, etc. The off-color granuals may have been treated with the additive(s).

The guns that win the major shoots (as if the gun itself actually won anything) are the ones provided by the winner's sponsor. If SV hires enough world class shooters, their guns could indeed win what ever competition their pros entered. As the cliche goes; it's the Indian, not the arrow.

The plastic sieve sets used to separate 45, 40 and 9 mm brass can do it. Use the "40" (blue) sieve. The 9 mm brass will fall through the slots but the 38 brass will get hung up on the rim and stay in the sieve. I use it to separate 9mm and .38 Special brass that I clean together. It's faster than hand sorting even given the obvious length differences.

An even better solution is: https://www.tandemkross.com/Double-Kross-1022®-Magazine-Body-for-the-Ruger®-1022®-Rotary-Magazines_p_226.html Gives you two magazines at your fingertips and a handle to remove the empty. You do need to switch the internals from two stock Ruger 10/22 magazines into the TK housing but that's pretty easy. TK also sells them in a group of three (Equal to 6 Ruger magazines) and an installation tool for about $40. The clear housing is a plus for keeping track of what's still in each magazine.

The Galloway plate will not accept the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro. It does fit the Vortex Venom, Burris Fast Fire and some others. I recommend the Venom based on my good experience with them.

The Vortex Venom is good, popular, reasonably priced and has a lifetime warranty. Leupold Delta Point Pro is very good but a bit more costly.

I don't think they use the same spring as blowback 9 mm (like the GMR) typically require a much heavier spring than a DI gun. JP is quite sluggish about responding to e-mails but try calling them directly. Talk to Ben if you can.

Yes, on modern reflex red dots the arrows point to the direction the POI will move. That is true for the Vortex, Burris, Nikon, Leupold and other current red dots. The confusion might come from several earlier red dots that used a tiny (1.5 mm) hex key to adjust the zero. The arrows on the graduated dial that slipped over the hex key showed which way the DOT moved. I remember a very frustrating afternoon trying to zero a Ruger MkII with one of these red dots and assuming the arrows showed POI movement. It took several tries before I realized what was going on.

I have one on a PCC using the included Picatinny base. It works well, was easy to zero and the dot is adequately bright even in full daylight. So far I'm very satisfied. And, yes, it's too bad they didn't use a common footprint like the Burris FFIII / Vortex Venom/ Viper.

I purchased my 5" M&P9 2.0 almost two years ago when they first came out. Mine is, of course, in FDE which I'm not nuts about. I thought if I waited a little longer it would be available in black but I was impatient. Good thing I didn't wait.

The videos are all posted on Apex's web site.

Yes, oddly they do. The Apex springs don't so much increase the pull weight relative to the OEM trigger but return it to about the same pull weight. The "DCAE" kit is sold for "Duty Carry Action Enhancement" with some emphasis on Duty Carry. I.e., it's intended to improve the trigger pull quality but not reduce it to the point that an LEO is likely fire the gun inadvertently. In my gun installing just the sear, sear spring and striker block reduced the pull from 6+ pounds to 4 pounds but, more importantly, improved the pull quality and eliminated a noticeable "hitch" in the pull as the trigger bar pushes the OEM striker block out of the way. Since I don't use my M&P as a carry gun, the lighter pull is a bonus for me.

After using a Shooting Chrony and Pact for a while and having them both hit by errant rounds (other shooters, not me) I finally splurged on a Magnetospeed. It is perfect for rifles and revolvers and most .22 LR fixed barrel pistols like the Ruger, Mk-series, S&W Victory, etc. It is usable for centerfire semi-auto pistols with Picatinny rail slots on the dust cover. Its benefits are that it is completely indifferent to ambient light so it works under daylight, florescent artificial light and in complete darkness. It also doesn't require you to go in front of the firing line to set it up or to change from one firearm to another and with any care in installation, you can't shoot it accidentally. Muzzle blast is completely ignored too. There is an SD card in the display that records all of your data for future access. I haven't figured out how to adapt it to other center fire semi-autos with no dust cover slots but there may be a way to do it. That isn't a problem for me and I love it's versatility and data handling capability.

I made a brass catcher out of 1/2" PVC pipe and some Ts, Crosses and Ells. I built a 24" wide by 30" high rectangular frame with two extended feet to sit on a shooting bench and bought a couple of yards of polyester mesh from Joann Fabric to act as the netting. I solvent welded the base pieces together but left the remaining joints as slip-fits so I can disassemble it for storage. I have about $20 in it and it works well for both PCCs and pistols.

I installed only the Apex DCAE kit (sear, sear spring and Ultimate striker block) in my 5" M&P9 2.0. I kept the stock trigger and springs. And yes, it was the kit made for the M&P .45. It transformed the trigger pull even though the 2.0 trigger was supposed to be an improvement over the 1.0 version. Pull is now 4 pounds even and very clean.

Adjust it correctly and it requires a moderate amount of torque to remove. It's not going to fall off just by pulling the release lever.

A reliable 10-round Glock magazine is the one for the G26. JP included one of them with my GMR15 even though I live in a non-restricted state and it's worked perfectly.

Have you tried adjusting the sensitivity to a higher value? I had to set mine at "7" to get reliable readings with my M&P and the adapter.