SteelCityShooter

How old is your 1.0? Early guns had a very tiny sear return spring and plunger and these wouldn't always reset the sear after firing. S&W soon changed the spring and plunger for larger diameter, stronger ones and that pretty much solved the problem. My early gun, purchased January 2007, had the small spring and plunger and a "dead trigger" was an occasional problem. S&W sent me a revised sear block with the larger spring and plunger and the problem went away.

I have one of the Rangepanda covers for my 510C and both the interior and exterior finish are nice and smooth with no rough spots or sharp edges.

My 5" M&P9 2.0 CORE came in a box marked "Performance Center" but the gun itself is engraved "Pro Series", which I gather is an intermediate level between the standard guns and the true Performance Center ones. Mine is not ported and does not have night sights but does have suppressor height sights, probably so they co-witness with some red dots.

Yes they are plastic and yes the bolts holding the optic go through them and thread directly into the slide. All the plates do is position the sight and all of the structural load is taken by the bolts and/or the end of the recess. And yes, the two new plates are #6 for the Deltapoint Pro and #7 for the Nikon Spur. Making the slide fit the Deltapoint Pro was a no brainer. Making it fit the Nikon is a surprise since the Spur is uncommon but I guess it was an easy line extension.

Anything unique or special about this powder? It seems to be a nearly direct substitute for TiteGroup, Alliant Sport Pistol, and others in that burn range.

Several states currently won't allow several typical AR cosmetic features, one of which is a threaded barrel. So, if you have a PCC with a threaded barrel and have to move to one if these states (or God forbid it becomes a national law) has anyone considered having a thread protector pinned and welded to the barrel? Yes, pinning and welding a flash hider or compensator is routinely done but some place these aren't allowed either. So how about Pinning &Welding a thread protector?

I have a JP-GMR15 I bought a bit over a year ago. Mine has the full length 16" barrel so no pin-and-weld necessary. My modifications include: Magpul pistol grip to replace the Hogue (I hate finger grooves) and buying my own was less expensive than the upgrade from JP. Removed the compensator and replaced it with a thread protector since it reduced weight and a compensator does very little on a 9 mm rifle. Also allows me to use coated bullets without the mess of cleaning the crud out of the compensator. Replaced the OEM charging handle with a Radian ambidextrous charging handle since I'm left-handed. Added a Holosun HS510 red dot. I love mine!

Revisiting this thread a month later but the M&P2.0 CORE pistols are now available. I just ordered a 5", non-ported one from GrabAGun.

I installed a Hornet trigger on a Ruger 10/22 several years ago. It was a significant improvement over the OEM trigger but not nearly as good as the Brimstone Tier 2 trigger I have on my current 10/22. So, Hornet does sell decent triggers but not wonderful.

What burn rate chart did you find that lists Sport Pistol? All the ones I've seen haven't been updated to include it. Alliant's literature says it falls between their American Select and their Green Dot so yes, it's pretty fast.

Mine isn't an opinion, it's personal experience. I never claimed it was a fundamental difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 models but certainly has been for the two M&Ps I've owned.

Blue Bullet 125 gr RN 4.0 TG, LOA 1.135, PF= 137 out of a 5" S&W M&P2.0 PF= 154 out of a 16" AR9

My 2.0 goes bang 100% of the time and has never had a failure to feed or eject in several thousand rounds. My early production1.0 occasionally had the "dead trigger" problem, i.e. pull the trigger, get a click but no bang and no mark on the primer. I even replaced the sear block with one having the larger diameter, stronger return spring which reduced but didn't eliminate the problem. I traded it and didn't replace it until the 2.0 came out.

My 2.0 with an Apex kit also has a much better trigger than my 1.0 with the same Apex kit did. It's also significantly more reliable and the grip texture is more secure. As to the "auto-slide drop" feature, yes, the 2.0 won't do it.

According to Alliant's web site Sport Pistol is nearly identical to their American Select in burn rate. The burn rate chart from Hodgdon says American Select is just below (very slightly slower) than TiteGroup so Sport Pistol is very similar to TiteGroup. Not identical but similar. For my 9 mm 125 gr Blue Bullet reloads the recommended charge weights are identical with SP producing very slightly lower velocities.

Can the outer belt be fastened to the inner belt using "keepers" rather than velcro? Is there a minimum number required?

Color the rails with the sharpie and then fit the new slide to the frame. The tight spots will be indicated where the ink has been rubbed off.

It's been announce as S&W's SKU #11828 however no one seems to have them in stock yet.

A comment on JP's handguard threading. The top of the handguard (12:00 o'clock position) has a series of holes threaded #6-32, yes 32 tpi, not 48 as used on scope bases. The lines of threaded holes along the rest of the handguard at the 3:00, 6:00, 9:00 and intermediate 45º positions etc. are threaded #10-32. These are the ones you will probably use for a foregrip, light mount pic rail sections or whatever else you hang on the gun. Enjoy your new toy. I bought mine about 18 months ago and with no upgrades and the discount code I paid $1710 which included 6% PA sales tax. Shipping to my FFL was free as I paid in full up front by check. Mine took 12 weeks from the time I accepted the order and made payment until delivery. Worth every penny. The only changes I've made so far are to install a Radian ambidextrous charging handle (I'm left-handed) and a Holosun HS510.

I'm left handed and I can't reach most "ambidextrous" or moveable mag releases with my thumb without changing my firing grip. I always leave the button on the standard left side and I've gotten used to pushing the release button with my trigger finger. It's easy to reach, fast and assures your finger is off the trigger during reloads.

I think you have the center bolt too tight. I adjust it until the shell plate has only a very tiny amount of vertical play when you push on it's edge so the bolt isn't really tight at all. Cycling the press with nothing in the shell plate and it should index freely with no apparent drag. If there is any noticeable resistance, the bolt is too tight.

OK, that is a difference.

The current Dillon "Blue Press" and their web site show the new RL 1100 and the older Super 1050 both as available and at exactly the same price. Are they both going to be in the Dillon product line? The reason I'm asking is that when the XL 750 came out the XL 650 instantly disappeared completely from their literature. I wonder why the older Super 1050 is still offered.

I wonder if the 2.0 5" non-ported CORE slide will be offered as an aftermarket part. I have a 5" M&P9 2.0 and would really like the CORE option but not if I have to buy an entire gun.

Another Sport Pistol fan. I load 4.0 gr with a Blue Bullet coated 125 gr RN and an loa of 1.135". My 5" M&P9 2.0 produces 1066 fps and a PF of 132. The same load in a 16" JP GMR15 gives 1198 fps and a PF of 150. Try it, you'll like it.