SteelCityShooter

I realize this isn't a reloading question but I couldn't find an "ammunition" thread in this forum so it goes here. I recently bought a case each of CCI Blazer Brass and Independence Aluminum (made by CCI) 115 gr FMJ 9 mm ammo and both boxes have the warning; "Do not use in firearms with ported barrels or ported recoil compensators." Since I thought these were really FMJ bullets I couldn't understand why the warning. I called CCI's tech service and was told the bullets are basically plated, not really jacketed, and the plating can be cut through by the rifling and have fragments deflected by the ports back toward the shooter. So, is this really a problem and should I not use them in my Ruger PC Carbine with a Taccom two-port comp? Does anyone have any experience using this ammo in a compensated or ported gun? Anyone uses Ranier or Berry's similarly plated bullets successfully? It would be a shame if I couldn't use them since they are by far the lowest cost domestic factory ammo available. Comments?

I also installed a TandemKross Game Changer on my 10/22 but the O-ring wouldn't tighten it down on my sporter weight barrel as the shoulder between the threads and the barrel OD wasn't wide enough. It kept being pushed over the muzzle. I wound up using a standard 1/2"-28 crush washer but didn't want to torque the aluminum comp down hard enough to clock it correctly. I sanded down the crush washer to thin it using 100 grit on a flat surface and sanding the muzzle side of the washer I ,worked slowly checking the orientation frequently until I got to about 10 degrees from perfect and then snugged it down to the right orientation using only modest torque. A few drops of blue Loctite assured it wouldn't loosen. A peel washer would also have worked but I didn't have one and i did have a crush washer. I didn't expect much recoil or muzzle rise improvement and there wasn't much but it did make the rifle louder so the shot timer picks up the report more reliably.

I have the same holster and it fits my 5" 2.0 perfectly. They have adjustable tension so minor fit differences should be easy to correct.

How good is your 1/16" hex key? Those get worn fast with any use, particularly cheap ones. A new, good quality, sharp-cornered one may solve your problem

Does "limp wristing" mean anything with a 22 semi-auto? The recoil is so little that having a stiff wrist to resist it can't be an issue. For that matter most current center fire autos aren't subject to limp wrist failures despite the myths to the contrary.

That's an awfully expensive way to get a primer pocket swage. There is a much cheaper alternative. RCBS makes a primer pocket swage set that works in any single stage press and sells for about $35. Here is Midway's listing: https://www.midwayusa.com/promo/FreeShipping-092118 I've used it for .223/5.56 and 9 mm brass and it's pretty fast and works very well. Since you only have to swage cases once it's not like it's a requirement for each and every reload. BTW, Unique Tek sells a primer pocket go/no go gage thats great for sorting cases and setting up swage tools. Here is their listing: http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1521

+1 that's the likely dry lube. I guess powder graphite would also work but would make a dreadful mess.?

I've also had very good experiences with LPA sights. I installed them on a S&W 686 revolver and a Ruger P89. both worked very well.

I wonder when the 2.0 CORE is going to be available.

To answer the question I asked above, the front sight uses the exact same bolts as the rear and the threading is #6-48. I removed mine and filled the holes with some plug screws I had removed from some previous gun.

I believe you got one of Brian's first prototypes as yours is still raw aluminum. After seeing yours in a past thread here I contacted him and bought a Picatinny version anodized black and it works wonderfully with my Vortex Venom. Incidentally, Taccom now offers a similar rear sight replacement Pic rail but Brian's is shorter and a neater, better fit for most red dots. Also after seeing the above photo of your PC Carbine i realized the front sight is indeed held on with two screws just like the rear sight. Maybe i'll remove mine too as it now serves no purpose. Did you fill the holes with plug screws and, if so, what was the threading, 6-48 or 6-40?

The threading is #10-32 and the threaded length is 1/2". The thread length isn't critical as long as it's at least 1/2" since the bolt has a nut (and star washer) underneaths and extra length won't matter. The head is a flat top countersunk style taking a 1/8" hex key. BTW, have you contacted Dillon? I expect they would send you a replacement set at no cost.

Mine does stay put but I put a piece of clear tape over the spindle edge just as a precaution. It doesn't change on it's own but it's possible to brush your arm or whatever against it and move it accidentally. I wish there was a spindle lock screw but that doesn't seem feasible. I've calibrated min with three different powders (WW231, Titegroup and Sport Pistol) and the calibrations are very linear and settings reproducible. That said, I check the actual charge weight against my powder scale every time I change powders or charge weight.

Yep, I had one on my SDB for several years and by the time it broke, Dillon had dropped them from their catalog. Apparently durability wasn't it's strong point. Nice gadget when it worked.

It uses the same battery and has the same battery compartment, brightness controls and windage and elevation dial layouts as the Vortex Venom. I wonder if it's made by the same supplier with only minor cosmetic differences.

I've been using Hornady One-Shot cleaner/dry lube on my 10/22s and Ruger PCC with very good results. I wonder how it compares to Eezox or even if it's the same thing.

My new 5" 2.0 had a definite "hitch" in the stock trigger as the trigger bar lifted the firing pin block plunger. An Apex DCEK that provided a new sear and "Ultimate" firing pin block plunger transformed the trigger pull. The hitch is gone and the pull is both lighter and crisper. The 2.0 trigger pull is better than the 1.0 but the DCEK is better than either.

I have both the Taccom and bmiller's rails. Brian's is shorter and makes a neater installation with a short red dot like the Vortex Venom or Leupold Delta Point. The Taccom is longer and overhangs small red dots but would be good for longer optics that need more rail space. Both fit the gun perfectly.

Wouldn't replacing the comp be cheaper than changing the barrel?

Assuming you are going to use an optic, consider a pic rail adapter that replaces the factory rear sight. That way the gun's zero cannot change when you use the "take-down" feature for cleaning. It's also a very good location for open dots like the Vortex Venom or Leupold Delta Point Pro as it's very fast to pick up the dot. I have on on my Ruger PC Carbine made by bmiller, a member here, and it fits perfectly.

+1 I have one of these on my Ruger PC Carbine. Reasonably light, reasonably priced and works well.

See my post above for an ASP load shot in my Ruger PC Carbine. As far as recoil goes, I saw no difference compared to Titegroup except the velocity was slightly lower for the same powder weight.

I did a bit of Google searching on this powder and it apparently is a double base powder similar to Titegroup in composition and burning speed Your data is about what I would expect from the same loads using Titegroup.

I can add two more loads to this list: S&W M&P 2.0 5" 125 gr Blue Bullet coated RN 4.0 gr Sport Pistol 1.148" COAL Magnetospeed V3 so distance from muzzle was about 4" Average velocity: 1066 fps PF: 132 Ruger PC Carbine 16" Same load data Average velocity: 1191 PF: 148