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SteelCityShooter

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Everything posted by SteelCityShooter

  1. The most effective technique is to "slingshot" the slide, i.e. pull it back from the rear then let go. TandemKross sells their "Halo" charging ring that makes this easier and there are other similar products.
  2. Don't go too cheap on the optic you choose. A slide mounted pistol optic lives a pretty rough life and has to be more rugged than one mounted on a rifle or shotgun. As noted, the Burris Fastfire III, the Vortex Venom and Viper and Holosun HS407C and 507C are about as low price as you want to go for adequate serviceability. Another vote for the EGW mounts. They are well made and specific to the gun and optic you choose. I have used them on several guns including one currently on a M&P9 2.0 5" mounting a Vortex Venom and it works very well.
  3. Heavier, probably but how much faster does the magazine have to eject? Also, the plastic used for the OEM base pads is really tough and impact resistant. I expect it will look a lot better and less scratched and dinged than the metal ones after a few falls onto a hard surface.
  4. Almost all of those "enhancements" seem cosmetic to me and their functionality is questionable. A "machined rear cover plate"? What for? Metal magazine base plates, machined frame pins? Same question, other than cost what do they contribute?
  5. The dot is basically at "infinity" so your distance correction is what you use to see it. That's the beauty of red dot sights, particularly for those of us with older eyes. Both the dot and the target are seen as being distant objects so there is no need to focus on a target (far) and sights (near and nearer) at different distances as with irons.
  6. I load a fair amount of 9 mm and .38 Special and I have an XL650 with the case feeder and tool heads and caliber conversion kits for both. I do load for .223/5.56 but in limited amounts and a single stage press is plenty for the volume I use. My only "problem" with the 650 that a 1050/1100 would solve is primer pocket crimps. I use a lot of range pickup and once-fired 9 mm brass and there are just enough crimped primer pockets that I have to be careful while seating new primers. The 1100 would avoid that issue.
  7. I have the EGW 9 mm chamber checker that takes 7 cartridges at one time so it has 7% of the Shock Bottle's capacity and is also aluminum. I've run at least 10,000 rounds through mine and it still functions perfectly so that's equivalent to about 140,000 rounds through the Shock Bottle. I expect the lifetime if the Shock Bottle is longer than yours.
  8. My M&P9 2.0 PC CORE's factory trigger wasn't at all that bad but a bit heavy at 5-1/2 to 6 pounds. I installed the Apex sear and "USB" sear block and that dropped the pull to 3-1/2 pounds and improved it's feel. It was worth the rather low cost. BTW, I also have an older 5" M&P 2.0 but not CORE and not PC. It's factory trigger pull was not even as good as the newer CORE pistol but it also responded equally well to an Apex transfusion.
  9. Put the current gun in a box and tell your wife you are going to a Fed Ex store to ship it to a custom gunsmith. Drive away and hide the box in the car. After a couple of weeks, buy the new gun and bring it home. Tell her it's the old gun that's been customized. Sneak the old gun back into the house. Mission accomplished. Seriously, as you noted, for the price of all of that custom work, you could probably buy a new 2.0 CORE for about the same money. BTW, installing an Apex Action Kit is a very simple DIY project. Apex has plenty of videos on Youtube showing how to do it .
  10. Get the second gun. As noted the factory CORE cut is far more versatile than any dedicated aftermarket red dot cut. Also, there is value to having a second nearly identical gun as a backup is something goes wrong with one of them.
  11. How old is your 1.0? Early guns had a very tiny sear return spring and plunger and these wouldn't always reset the sear after firing. S&W soon changed the spring and plunger for larger diameter, stronger ones and that pretty much solved the problem. My early gun, purchased January 2007, had the small spring and plunger and a "dead trigger" was an occasional problem. S&W sent me a revised sear block with the larger spring and plunger and the problem went away.
  12. I have one of the Rangepanda covers for my 510C and both the interior and exterior finish are nice and smooth with no rough spots or sharp edges.
  13. My 5" M&P9 2.0 CORE came in a box marked "Performance Center" but the gun itself is engraved "Pro Series", which I gather is an intermediate level between the standard guns and the true Performance Center ones. Mine is not ported and does not have night sights but does have suppressor height sights, probably so they co-witness with some red dots.
  14. Yes they are plastic and yes the bolts holding the optic go through them and thread directly into the slide. All the plates do is position the sight and all of the structural load is taken by the bolts and/or the end of the recess. And yes, the two new plates are #6 for the Deltapoint Pro and #7 for the Nikon Spur. Making the slide fit the Deltapoint Pro was a no brainer. Making it fit the Nikon is a surprise since the Spur is uncommon but I guess it was an easy line extension.
  15. Anything unique or special about this powder? It seems to be a nearly direct substitute for TiteGroup, Alliant Sport Pistol, and others in that burn range.
  16. Several states currently won't allow several typical AR cosmetic features, one of which is a threaded barrel. So, if you have a PCC with a threaded barrel and have to move to one if these states (or God forbid it becomes a national law) has anyone considered having a thread protector pinned and welded to the barrel? Yes, pinning and welding a flash hider or compensator is routinely done but some place these aren't allowed either. So how about Pinning &Welding a thread protector?
  17. I have a JP-GMR15 I bought a bit over a year ago. Mine has the full length 16" barrel so no pin-and-weld necessary. My modifications include: Magpul pistol grip to replace the Hogue (I hate finger grooves) and buying my own was less expensive than the upgrade from JP. Removed the compensator and replaced it with a thread protector since it reduced weight and a compensator does very little on a 9 mm rifle. Also allows me to use coated bullets without the mess of cleaning the crud out of the compensator. Replaced the OEM charging handle with a Radian ambidextrous charging handle since I'm left-handed. Added a Holosun HS510 red dot. I love mine!
  18. Revisiting this thread a month later but the M&P2.0 CORE pistols are now available. I just ordered a 5", non-ported one from GrabAGun.
  19. I installed a Hornet trigger on a Ruger 10/22 several years ago. It was a significant improvement over the OEM trigger but not nearly as good as the Brimstone Tier 2 trigger I have on my current 10/22. So, Hornet does sell decent triggers but not wonderful.
  20. What burn rate chart did you find that lists Sport Pistol? All the ones I've seen haven't been updated to include it. Alliant's literature says it falls between their American Select and their Green Dot so yes, it's pretty fast.
  21. Mine isn't an opinion, it's personal experience. I never claimed it was a fundamental difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 models but certainly has been for the two M&Ps I've owned.
  22. Blue Bullet 125 gr RN 4.0 TG, LOA 1.135, PF= 137 out of a 5" S&W M&P2.0 PF= 154 out of a 16" AR9
  23. My 2.0 goes bang 100% of the time and has never had a failure to feed or eject in several thousand rounds. My early production1.0 occasionally had the "dead trigger" problem, i.e. pull the trigger, get a click but no bang and no mark on the primer. I even replaced the sear block with one having the larger diameter, stronger return spring which reduced but didn't eliminate the problem. I traded it and didn't replace it until the 2.0 came out.
  24. My 2.0 with an Apex kit also has a much better trigger than my 1.0 with the same Apex kit did. It's also significantly more reliable and the grip texture is more secure. As to the "auto-slide drop" feature, yes, the 2.0 won't do it.
  25. According to Alliant's web site Sport Pistol is nearly identical to their American Select in burn rate. The burn rate chart from Hodgdon says American Select is just below (very slightly slower) than TiteGroup so Sport Pistol is very similar to TiteGroup. Not identical but similar. For my 9 mm 125 gr Blue Bullet reloads the recommended charge weights are identical with SP producing very slightly lower velocities.
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