RocketRyan

5 minutes or less. I use to do one pass loading so I would clean it often anyway. Now with an ammobot I process with all the sensors so that I can load trouble free.

Why not get a separate tool head? I swap between two tool heads to process, then load.

Taking the Aluminum basepads off for cleaning do far more damage to the plastic. I have almost 20 mags and haven't had an issue.

So the easiest way I have found to get off the stock basepads is to set the mag flat on a countertop, let the basepad hang over the edge and wack it off with a hammer. The spring and goodies go everywhere but takes a second to get rid of that junk.

I bought the same resin funnel. It works great for filling from a 5 gallon bucket.

The Goliath is great if your oal is under 1.125. I only spent a few minutes working on the mags, just removed the flashing on the glock tube and it runs like a champ. I run a mix of TTI and Goliath, sold off the mega due to reliability reasons.

You can now order a feeler gauge to check your bolt. Much easier than shipping back and forth.

I try not to make it a habit of removing my large basepads since it tears up the plastic basepad lips on the oem glock tubes.

Shadow 2 and a bucket of ammo. When you decide to go competitive you'll have it smoothed out.

I would keep it assembled as a big magazine, and maybe purchase some PMAG GL9 as your reload mags. They are far easier to clean and will handle the abuse better.

I personally don't think it matters, it's about the practice you put into. I have shot well with a Ruger PCC and a JP GMR-15, both are tanks with long barrels, but I've put in a lot of practice with them. I also have seen 'Tampa-XD45' burn it down with his SBR at his matches. Choose what you want and put in the time.

C-More Railway 8 MOA polymer. I shot the Florida Open with the 8 and did not have any sight issues for it being a technical match. The aluminum shroud around the glass is too thick for my liking, which is why I went the polymer route.

I really liked the palm swell bogies, great traction. I had the scales 2.0 for a while, they worked good, but I feel the bogies were better. I don't use any grip enhancements either (progrip etc).

Czechmate with two barrels. Parrot looks good, but most of the anodized parts I would be swapping out anyway for aftermarket parts.

Thoughts on the short stroke system vs the stock buffer? I have a GMR-15 thinking about the short stroke system.

I use PB Swiss for my hex/torx keys. They are expensive, but they will last forever. Tight fitment too. Wiha or Wera for your drivers. Grace USA makes punches for Tekton so I would pick up this set. Great warranty if you bend one. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Gunsmith-Punch-18-Piece-66564/dp/B012TKY0VI/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tekton+gun&qid=1551207113&s=gateway&sr=8-7

They do nothing but collect crud to clean. Spend the $80 or whatever on more ammo.

I'm running 125gr @1.100 with 3.4gr of Titegroup and it makes 136 power factor out of a JP 14.5". I would say you are very close and would chrono your load (Ask around to borrow one at your local club).

I find it's just something else to clean, unfortunately mine is pin and welded on or it would be off.

I was probably the first person this ever happened to, I was in talks with Ruger Engineers/Head of their PCC product line guys. This is a design flaw with the takedown pin. They use a really tapered pin to seat into the receiver, unfortunately it provides no ability to lock it into place. I find that the "locking" nut actually does not prevent this at all. It's easily replicated by pulling the fore end into your shoulder and twisting at the same time. I checked out a newer PCCarbine at the gun shop and it seems they may have a newer style takedown pin that should fix this. I ended making my own takedown pins that had no taper and milled the receiver to match. I went from barely getting over 5 rounds before it would break free to 12,000 with no issues. I hope they get this fixed for you (Mine was back and forth for two months with Ruger before they gave up and offered me a refund etc, I ended up fixing it myself). Video back from April 2018. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cST_3Ds7Dnk I no longer use the Ruger in competition since mag changes were holding me back in classifications. I now run a JP with zero problems 5K+ since mid December.

Just replaced a trigger return spring for a shooter at FL State in a safe table. No squad on our stage, knocked it out in 5-8 minutes with no slave pin. Saved a guys match, having the correct tools available helps. He still had the stock pin. Some items are doable the day of.

I found with my dryer that 160 degrees for an hour was great at getting my cases dry.

FA Dryer has worked well for me ($56 on Amazon). A cheap dehydrator will be fine.

I find any cracked cases generally on the press because the bullet will topple out. The hundo will catch cracked cases as well. I also give a glance for any high primers while in the hundo gauge.

It will if you have an extended firing pin and the extended firing pin spring. If not you will need to put the stock hammer spring in.