oldfrank

Sig P320 has been the top selling semi auto handgun for the last several years so obviously not everyone buys into every thing!

I have been shooting competitively for around 17 years. I shoot 2-4 matches a month, mostly IDPA but some USPSA. I try to get to the outdoor range at least three times a month. I am saying this just to say I am fairly experienced with shooting firearms. I started IDPA with Glocks, Moved to an XDM for a while. Friend got me interested in CZ's and I went through several, and them moved to Caniks for a few years. I had two cases blow up a few years ago. One was a Glock and one was a Canik, no damage done. I switched to a Sig P320 about 18 months ago. I had three cases blow up or OOB. Two blew the magazines out but no other damage and the third just made a louder noise and blackened my hand. I was shooting my reloads. Then I had just gone to the outdoor range. I decided to empty my carry magazines by firing slowly and accurately. I was using Federal 124 HST. I had fired 10 rounds and saw each hit the target. On the 11th shot giant bang. Magazine blew out and apart, I never found the magazine spring. Extractor blown out and slide was stuck about 2 " back. Case was severely mangled and I had to tear it out in pieces. I never could get the slide to move at all. It did have a Wilson grip module. Sig repaired it, I believe they put my FCU in a new gun and said Wilson module was damaged and replaced it with a Sig laser engraved and a new magazine. My friend had same thing happen a few weeks ago, blown extractor was only damage and yesterday during a match another friend had his P320 blow out the extractor, we got the blown case. Both are experienced reloaders and were shooting reloads including range pick up brass. We all inspect and discard bad looking brass but impossible to tell if it is weak. I watched all the videos and listened to all the arguments and I don't know if it is just weak cases, my thoughts, or firing OOB which I tend to doubt. The blown cases were all bulged on the back end as if they were not supported when they blew. One friend just ordered the newer extractor but I don't really know which direction I am going to go. Trying to keep an open mind.

After two friends told me how great the trigger was I ordered one for my new, stock G45. I installed it and it felt bad. No better than a stock Glock trigger. Mush, long take up and spongy trigger pull. I polished the stock connector and no difference. Installed a lone Wolf I had on hand and no difference. I sent it back for a refund. Last night I got to try both my friends guns and night and day from what I experienced. Maybe I just got a bad one.

First match of the year and I did OK but I notice my revolver does not have as much light around the front sight as my semi guns. I was just wondering if this is a good or bad thing. I have a .125 front with a .145 rear!

Thanks, I do have some big Pmags so may just keep this one as a SHTF at home tool. Thanks!

Not thinking clearly I ordered one of these and installed it on a Glock Long magazine 31 rounds I think. It works great and with no problems but it is really long. Will it only work on the 31 round magazine? Can I install it on a 17 rounder? Does it require a new spring and is one available. Local matches I shoot almost always have a mandatory magazine change in a regular stage and I don't need that big of a magazine. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WFHENC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L04Z7Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I had some points saved on Amazon so I bought a pk of 20 chamber safety tools and 20 flags. The remove before flight were the cheapest and still bright enough to see. You have to cut about 1/2" off the chamber part to fit PCC and drill a hole. I gave 12 away at the last indoor carbine match!

I am running them pretty warm so I don't think it is unburnt powder. But I will keep researching about this and the hone. The hone instructions I saw online says "start spinning outside cylinder and go all the way through." I sure don't want to mess up a cylinder. I may use finest scotch brite and mag polish first to see what happens. Thanks for the help.

Yes, I shoot using speedloaders and I have noticed the moon clip guys don't seem to have the problem.

Thanks for the info!

Where do I get a hone for that job? Sounds like it can't hurt!

I don't think it is all that dirty especially with the N320. I just found three cases in my reloading box from the last match and the brass is still pretty shiny and no soot on it. What is the min-max bore of the cylinder? I wonder if it could be on the small size even though reloads drop right in a clean gun, not sure if that is a true indicator.

I use both Bayou 160gr RN and also Xtreme 147 Plated RN. Are you talking about just pushing an empty .357 case in the hole. I never thought of that. I suspect it is due to firing .38's in a .357. In competition I couldn't afford the time to load the longer bullets but I do make sure that crud ring is completely gone when cleaning. Yes the ammo issue is the same for Icore but if it worked I could rig something up with what used to be a .357 case.

Is there any way around having to brush out the cylinder every few stages to keep my rounds dropping freely into my S&W 66? I have used W231 and N320 with the same results. I gauge the rounds and also check them in the cylinders. Loose as can be, drop right in and out but when the gun gets a little warm or dirty, one or two rounds don't seat flush and I have to push them in the cylinder, which really slows down a reload. Is this mostly normal or should I have the cylinder holes checked. I already polished them with mag wheel polish