Sigarmsp226

^^^^^^^^^^^ DDC said it perfectly.....Eliminate this as one of your variables......and Dillon’s work very well with Titegroup And with CCI primers.....I use both with very good results.....Mark

ZZT - Thank you Sir - I actually read a 2018/2019 thread where Zack, you, and several others were discussing these rules but as I read that thread I becamce confused....Thank you for taking time to resond again to my questions. Greatly appreciate your help...Mark

So to my questions 1- Shooter decides to NOT move out of the left box and shoots all five plates from the left box....What are the penalties (break out if it is considered to be a missed plate or procedural)..... 2 - Shooter starts in the middle box and does not move and shoots all five plates from the center box....What are the penalties (break out if it is considered to be a missed plate or procedural)..... 3 - Shooter Starts in the middle box and shoots ONLY the three plates that are normally shot from this box (does not move)...What are the penalties (break out if it is considered to be a missed plate or procedural)..... Thanks Mark

My MR - Switch Bolt will put 10 shots in one hole using my C-More 8MOA, from a rest, at 12 yds all day long.... I sight in my SC - RFRO guns at 12 yards.... I LOVE my Switch Bolt Only about 900 rounds through it so far with ZERO problems - Not a single FTF or FTE...

Thanks guys - I have never had powder spillage issues on my 550 or 650 but I do not load major loads but I am going to order a set for my 1100....Thanks Again...Mark

Chgo Fire Fighter - That quarter circle thingie on the side of your loader that looks like a piece of foam insulation - does that help stabilize your case during the movement from one stage to the next helping prevent powder spillage and insuring good alignment at each station when the case stops? If so is that something that is only needed when you are loading the case that contains a large amount of powder or does is also help prevent the case from sticking on the powder funnel (cannot tell if you have one of those on the other side of your press also)? Thanks Mark

If you live in Mississippi and are willing to drive to my house you can use my concrete mixer and SS pins that I use for cleaning my brass....Just message me if you want to stop by...It will clean about 4000 rounds in 60-90 min total time...

Mvmojo - thanks Sir for posting this picture...I am off to Lowes this weekend (no HD where I live) to see if I can find a bolt that looks like this (post grinding of course)... One question - what bolt length did you start with? Thanks Again...Mark

Comment on Terp's OP - Ah - Yes - Those were the good ole days when Brian was able to offer free shipping on his Dillon press orders and I remember the exact interactive menu that Terp described. It was a very good marketing tool that would have the buyer questioning weather or not they needed that listed option....I bought my first Dillon press from Brian because of the free shipping and also because I grew in the shooting sports by watching Brian Enos shoot and compete. I even remember receiving an email after placing my first order with Brian from Brian himself....Brian, in my book, is a GREAT shooter and a GREAT man for his contributions to this sport and providing this forum.....At 60 years of age now I continue to learn something new from this site every time I get on it.....

Rich - Thanks for your feedback.....Until you try what worked for me, provided as a recommendation by a tenured SIG professional armorer, why post a smart ass response. Many people, like myself, apply oil or grease to their firearm parts after cleaning and I was one that applied several drops of oil to my striker assembly on my P320’s.....After that I started having light strikes.... Sometimes the solution is simpler than we realize....If you do not want to try what was recommended and worked for me that is your choice but if there are others that can benefit from what I learned then that is why I took the time to post my comments.....And the cost to anyone that wants to try this option is ZERO and the effort is about 10 minutes......Mark

MvMojo - This is a great idea - Can you provide a photo of what you did when your time allows....

Everyone - The issue is fixable by following one simple process...I know this because I experienced the exact same deal with two of my 320’s and a Certified SIG Armorer told me to do one simple but very very important thing and it fixed both of my P320’s.... Remove the striker assembly and clean it good with your favorite gun solvent (not oil) and DO NOT put any oil, grease, or lube on the striker assembly unless you use a very small amount of dry graphite(a very very small amount)... He told me that the striker assembly in these pistols are designed to run DRY.....Clean the complete striker assembly good and use canned air to dry it....Clean and dry the chamber where the striker assembly resides and then reinsert your striker assembly....Both of my pistols have run flawless ever since... To confirm that this was the real issue I removed the striker assembly from one of my P320’s and put about 4-5 drops of CLP oil on it and replaced it in the pistol....About 40 rounds into my next firing session, using factory ammo - I started having light strikes again...I removed the assembly right there at the range and sprayed it down with Powder Blast and then took three Q-Tips and cleaned and dried the striker assembly cylinder on the pistol and re-inserted the striker assembly.....That pistol has over 300 rds since the reassembly with ZERO light strikes...... Give this a try and you should find your light strike issues go away.....without having to replace the striker assembly or pistols springs....Mark

Hawk - Thanks for posting this suggestion.....Never thought about this style chair - looks comfortable and with the adjustable height - this might be the ticket......Thanks Sir....Mark

Love it - When I am able to put my Big Boy Britches on I will get me one...Right now just happy I could afford the RL1100.... And yes I am jealous....

The Dillon 223 Carbide Dies are on backorder at Dillon Precision and every Dillon distributor that I have checked with, and that has been well over 20..... Here is what I learned on my last call to Dillon Precision on this topic....The Dillon rep was very nice and knew his stuff.....Told me that the dies are made in Israel and the current supplier has temporarily closed due to covid....and that once they re-open they have a sizable backlog but the supplier does have two additional machines on order to help support the increased demand. Currently the supplier only has one machine dedicated to making these Dillon carbide dies....He went on to say that they will catch up but for now they have removed this specific item from their website for ordering due to this situation.... The Dillon rep went on to say that they will accept a phone order but will make it clear that the order for their 223 carbide die set will be managed as a separate one line order item (cannot be combined with any other Dillon items) that will be shipped when die sets arrive based on date of orders received and your cc will not be billed until your order ships....Again this Dillon rep was very very professional, very open related to the situation, and also said in his opinion their carbide rifle dies were worth the price....Hopefully this helps....Mark

Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond...My plan will be to set up a temporary bench top to determine the final height before building the final structure. I am going to try and load from a standing position that still allows me to rest my ass on a padded stool similar to the type you see in auto parts houses - no back but a nice big round padded top that has adjustable legs.... Again thanks everyone - based on the comments standing is the best option but a standing/stool top sitting position will also work....As soon as the Grandkids (son and DIL both work in medical so we keep two or three of our grand daughters each week Tuesday thru Friday - ages 5, e, and 16 months) head home for the weekend I will get started on this set up...I have to work this into the home and yard chores so that is why my RL1100 has not been removed from the factory shipping box since receipt...Covid closed the girls church daycare the week my RL arrived....and yes it has been driving me crazy not being able to get it set up but I know my priorities and setting up a new reloading machine falls way behind God, Family, and Work.....Thanks Again Everyone...Mark

Finally was able to get the 2000+ lbs of various reloading projectiles unloaded out of the vault in my reloading room which now allows me to move the 700 lb. vault that needed to be moved. Now I have the required space needed to build my reloading bench for my RL1100 that has been here for a while..... Being 60 years young I now sit when I reload on my 650 and it makes for very comfortable reloading sessions.....so as I prepare to build the bench for my RL1100 I wanted to ask the forum members if you sit or stand when loading on your 1050/1100 series loaders....I realize the design and stroke is different from the 650 so wanted to ask before I start building my bench....I would love the ability to sit (bar stool height) if possible but did not know if the stroke and angles make this a less than viable option......Thanks for your comments and feedback....Mark

Stockwes - Welcome to the forum and to your earlier comment - so much to be learned from this forum as I continue to learn everyday. There are several folks on this forum that can provide you firsthand feedback to your questions/concerns as there are several regular contributors here who have 650's and 1050's or 650's and 1100's. I have both the 650 and the 1100 and have loaded on my XL650 for 6+ years having moved up from the 550. I also have the RL1100 still sitting in the box as I am working to get my reloading room built to support all of my presses and components. Here is what I can share with you based on where I am in this process. 1> I LOVE LOVE LOVE my XL650 - it has the case feeder but no MBF on it. I can knock out 1000 rds of 9mm in three - one hr sessions (I am 60 and do not get in a hurry when loading) and once you get your dies set up - it is a true pleasure to reload any caliber. I also load 38 Spl, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 223, and 300 B/O on my 650. Changeovers are quick and easy once you do it a couple of times and the 750 will be almost identical to the 650 as it relates to the changeover processes. 2> I bought the RL1100 because I wanted to add the MBF and have the Swage capability. When I decided I was going to move forward on purchasing the needed parts to also run 223 (in addition to 9mm) on the RL1100 I quickly learned that this process was going to be expensive. I am into the changeover for about $800.00 right now (which includes the MBF changeover kit also) so keep in mind that the 750 changeover costs are significantly less than it would be for the RL1100. 3> I do not shoot enough to justify the RL1100 but remember this - Whatever you buy can be a lifetime investment in two ways.... Saves you cost on ammo and more importantly - Dillon reloaders go UP in value with they are cared for properly. One will be hard pressed to find a 5+ year old Dillon machine selling for less than the original owner paid for it new. On average (and I have tracked what I am about to type) the Dillon machines and accessories go up about 4% - 7% yearly. I know because I have tracked Dillon machine prices using old copies of the Blue Press for about the last 5 years. Whatever you decide to do if you go with a Dillon machine you cannot go wrong......If I were you, shooting the amount you shoot, I would go with a 750 machine, case feeder, maybe even a MBF, caliber conversion set up for the other caliber you need, and purchase a separate Dillon Swage unit for $120.00 to swage your brass - as needed. This would put you into business with everything you need and overall might save you about $400 - $500 (guessing)to us to buy bullets, primers, and powder...... Good Luck on your decision.....Mark

Especially since Hog said he has only run a handful (20 or so) rounds through this die so far....

Well Hog as you are aware I was in this same situation related to my RL1100 set up for 9mm. ChgoFF what I decided to do after reading tons of on line posts at various sites is to go with a MBF, a back up camera and monitor in place of a powder cop, the seating die, and then the crimp die......Some folks have had success in managing a seat/crimp die, but more have not....I too bought the RL1100 thinking I could accomplish all of these processes but learned after my unit arrived that I was mistaken... I am in too deep now (also purchased $800.00 in components to allow me to complete a caliber change over on the RL1100) and hind sight is 20/20...Not sure I could have justified the additional cost of the Mark7 unit anyway.....Good luck but what you may find is what Hog said - go with the separate seating and crimping die set up to provide you with consistent easy to set up and manipulate rounds. I have been using the separate seat and crimp die set up on my XL650 for all of my pistol calibers for 5+ years will wonderful success.... At the recommendation of Youngeyes I ordered a very nice 1080P camera and 7” monitor for $80.00 off of EBay and had a 12 volt convertor here at the house to run it when it arrives... Good luck in the path you take.....Mark

I load 3.5gr of W231 under an Xtreme 124gr Heavy Plated FMJ and 124gr HP’s with CCI standard SPP’s that I shoot in my PCC and in my stock SIg P320X5 with ZERO issues....I have fired 10,000+ rounds in IDPA, Steel Challenge, and practice....

Good call out AHI - I missed that when I was watching....Thanks for pointing this out....Mark

Not saying this is the best way but in the video below (not my video) you will see what appears (correct me if I am wrong) that this reloader has removed part 66010 (toolhead ratchet) and then placed the 12486 (cam guide bolt) back into its previous location...If you go this route I read in another thread on this forum that this bolt will need to be heated as it is held in place with RED locktite... Please e sure to post which route you went related to this issue as my plans will be to follow your recommendation....Thanks Mark

Hog Rider - Sorry that I cannot answer any of your questions but I can tell you what was recommended to me by one of the CSR’s at Dillon related to verifying that your swage setting is correct....Here is the link to what he recommended I consider getting and using....Inexpensive insurance IMO....Mark https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter

Xtreme Bullets has 9mm back in stock. 115gr, 124gr, 147gr, and 165gr....I just ordered 4000 124RN. They are running about two-three weeks behind on shipping but their inventory is updated as your order is completed....Mark