Reekus

I'd look at the Nightforce 1-8x NX8 or 1-8x ATACR. Both have superb glass and a true 1x.

I'd consider a Unity Atom slide then, if you have any question about which optic you want to run. I feel like the optic sits marginally higher than a direct slide cut but the option to swap optics around is really nice. Also, I completely concur on the RMR; the window is far too small.

I know it is not what you've listed, OP, but I along with many others in the shooting community seem to have had great reliability with RMR type 2's. My issue with them for a match gun is to change the battery it requires it to be removed from the slide. I have sent my DPP's back for non adjustable brightness on one, and two that wouldnt turn on. All these were post ~8k rounds I believe, on different glocks. I am also a firm believer that the lifespan of a slide mounted optic directly correlates to 1.correct torque/mounting procedure and 2. a correctly engineered mounting surface (recoil bosses, tight fit, etc). YMMV, just my two cents.

I’ve had a handful of DPPs break, but the big window and clear optics have been enough reason to keep them for me as long as they’re still repaired under warranty. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My experience is while I really like the reticle (long time eotech end user) I found it just was not daylight bright like similar options such as the Razor 1-6, NF 1-8, etc. On very sunny day the reticle is very dim and washed out. Otherwise it is a great optic, but that was a deal breaker for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have shot Vanek and DK, I guess the difference wasn’t enough to drive me to spend the money on it. I see why they’re nice though, for sure. (Just personal preference, I do love say Geissele or CGW quality triggers in other platforms) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This. I’m in a similar place, and I have watched Ben and others destroy with pure fundamentals those who are trying to game every aspect they can. In my experience, I recently accidentally mixed two vastly different 9mm loads before a major match... and I felt nothing out of the ordinary because I wasn’t focused on the recoil. That being said, Speer 124gr ran great through my S2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This. I like the “-“ connector, beyond that I found the benefits of aftermarket triggers (in this platform) marginal and at times unreliable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t think personal preference is going to prove whether one gen is more accurate than the other; Only after a ransom rest test would I say you could really say if it’s more or less accurate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DPP owner here as well, and I concur that the Duracell’s seem to be the best. I have never used dielectric grease though I’m sure it does help to a small extent. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've found that in a match, its never worth it to push yourself beyond your limitations, but instead just perform on the level that you are trained to. Push the envelope in training where you can easily make mistakes and work past them. At matches, I try to relax, and give each stage a 100% effort of my current skills, if that makes sense.

I have seen many instances of both "Full Auto" and drop safety failure (sig p320 anyone?) with Zev triggers. You can find videos of this being replicated online if you search enough. I have had them myself but found no real performance enhancement over a polished "-" connector with a 6lb TRS. YMMV

I've played around with many different variations of comped "carry" glocks (a la P&S "Roland Special" nonsense) and found the KKM barrel/comp combo to be the absolute best in design and in shooting. I have had the TBRCi offerings as well as Primary Machine. The KKM has a superior locking mechanism, with the barrel having machined flats for the set screws to positively engage on. For me, I found that the juice was not worth the squeeze even for a carry/fun gun. Unfortunately like the others have said if you're trying to be competitive you'll be far outclassed by the 2011 shooters.

I agree with this 100%. I've gotten in several discussions with other local shooters about particular dry fire drills to isolate grip etc etc, but, I firmly believe that if you are healthy enough to regularly do variations of power/oly/crossfit lifting, then you will begin to see your grip strength not become a problem anymore.

Whatever you choose, I’d recommend sticking with a 1.93”+ height vs the standard 1.5” height. I have one in a Geissele 1.93 SPM and while heavy, it’s so much nicer to have the optic up higher. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the reason you see such a knee jerk reaction stating “it’s the Indian not the arrow” is because we live in the social media generation where every where I look some operator as F gun nerd is touting his Glock slide serrations and stipple job as the reason why he can shoot so fast in his 1.25x sped up videos of 1R1 drills. It’s generation now, to an extent I think people believe they can buy skill. All that to say I still agree with you. A $4000 Akai Limited gun with a top of the line rig and good ammo will do nothing but absolutely benefit a new shooter. You just can’t go into it with expectations that a tricked out gun means no practice is needed, if you wanna excel. OP, buy the best gun and equipment you can afford but also put in as much time and money you can afford into training and range time. If you want to see yourself excel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The better you grasp the fundamentals of marksmanship/shooting, the more you will be able to understand how your hardware can give you a competitive advantage. Being able to know the hows and why's that piece of hardware interacts with your abilities is critical. I'd argue that a 2011 has the mechanical abilities to perform better than say your M&P. However, how you choose to employ them is where the difference lies. The more practice and thus understanding you have will help you be able to exploit the abilities of your hardware. That's my opinion, anyways.

Pricey, but I have found the Unity Atom slides to be the best option. If you shoot enough, you will break optics. Having the ability to quickly swap them out, or try something different, all while having a very concrete mounting system was worth it to me. I am not a fan of the MOS mounting system. Milling is fine if someone reputable does it.

If you're gonna ask him,make sure you do it in a comment on his Instagram as well

I've now had 3 DPP's repaired under warranty. Took like a month to get them sent out, fixed, and returned. 2 wouldn't turn on, 1 wouldn't stay on for more than a minute. From what I've gathered its just the nature of the beast with optics mounted on slides. I've also seen T1's break, RMR type 1 & 2's break, and all the vortex offerings. In my experience the RMR type 2's have held up the best. I now just have a backup gun with me at every match. The oem screws for the DPP suck too. Bolt stretch IS a thing, I see it all the time where I work when items are put through intense g-force/shock/vibration. According to Hooke's Law ( dl = F L / E A ) , stretch is a very real thing and can be calculated ( though it is a very small number).

Not to take away from what others have said about dry fire (it is super crucial), but live fire is going to help a lot too. You're going to want to start working on tracking the dot throughout the recoil process. You could start really simple by taking two slow, deliberate shots on steel. Then slowly start speeding up your splits until you lose the dot, and then back off the speed slightly. Taking this measured approach has helped me a lot among other drills and dry fire regimes.

I’ve seen the same issues across 3 DPP’s. The pros are Leupold is really good about fixing them (bad circuit module). The cons are in my experience once I started to crest around 8k rounds they would start with the intermittent shut off as described and ultimately fail. I believe that unfortunately they just have a lifespan and a lot of competitive shooters reach it easily, especially slide mounted. Mine were on Glock 17 Unity slides, correctly torqued per Leupold’s guidance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long was the lead time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really like the Dawson basepads. I like that I can easily take em off and clean out the mags, even though it’s a Glock and we all no that doesn’t really matter. I have had zero malfunctions across 5 Mags for ~8k Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I see aftermarket slides have been removed from the Excluded modifications list (1.1.1.3.7). Does this mean they are now permitted? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk