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I corrected my erroneous first post. Please reread. You can find the restrictions in the Appendices for the relevant Division..

SCSA positioning matches USPSA rules per division. The only difference is SCSA does not care where you put your mag pouches. USPSA does. For the Divisions that restrict holster placement, behind the hip is the rule.

Anything that robs gas from the comp makes the gun hit your hand harder. No positioning of holes can avoid that. If you want to lessen that harshness, you have to add more powder so the comp gets more gas to work with. That's easy to do in 40 Open and 38SC, but harder in 9mm major because of case capacity.

Put the gun into battery- no ammo, no mags. Press down hard on the top of the barrel ithat shows in the top of the ejection port. If there is any movement, the link is too long. You can also check to see that the hole in the link the slide stop goes into is perfectly round. Some smiths want to use a #3 link, because that shows a 'perfect' fit. However, unless everything else is perfect, the barrel will not be sitting on the barrel rest. So smiths elongate that hole so it does. Elongating the hole means the barrel is not pulled down as far as it normally would be. There are other things that might case this. If the bottom lugs were not cut deeply enough, they ride on the SS and jam the top lugs up into the slide. The effect is the same as too long a link, but more severe. If you get movement from the barrel when you press down, it's the link. If not, it's the bottom lugs. Your lugs were damaged by improper fit. I would not use that smith again for any reason, especially since he is telling you to use the gun because there is 'enough' engagement left. If you do you will eventually shear off the top lugs. Since your slide is also cracked, you need a new top end by a competent gunsmith. If you like your comp, it may be reusable. It all depends on the threads on the new barrel.

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A lot of ROs fast beep. More shooters acting like ROs tend to fast beep. It is annoying. I can't tell you how many times the fast beep startled me into action. For the past year I've stopped my draw and told the timer it was too fast. I haven't had a complaint. When I RO USPSA I vary the time over the 1 to 4 second range. For SCSA I use a 2 count and everybody gets the same. The only time I vary is if I see the shooter anticipating the beep. The next beep will be a tad slower to see if he creeps. If he does I restart him.

First off, I have watched the Atlas Gen2 tuning video. It really isn't necessary. My Gen2 tubes (21 round) ran fine right out of the bag. I use them for Classifiers and whenever I have to drop a mag in dust or mud. Otherwise I use my MBX mags. I switched out the springs, followers and base pads to TTI. After you cut off the slide lock tab, they work just like MBX. Really, the only difference is the feed lips sometimes need tuning after being dropped a lot. I've learned to down load them for Classifiers so I'm not dropping almost full mags. I haven't had to tune feed lips since. BTW, I shoot 9 major and minor. You do NOT need spacers for the 9/38 Gen2 STI mags. They feed everything from 1.135" to 1.165". They may feed other OALs, but I haven't tried them.

I love the boogies on my CZ. For 1911s I always use the Harrison Custom grips. They don't look aggressive, but they are. There is enough grip so that the pistol doesn't move in your hand, even is sweaty August. There is not so much stick that you can't release and reposition to get to the mag release. They are also extremely comfortable.

Look at a clear mag and note the location. If you don't have access to one, there is an empty space before the tenth round. You can almost get an 11th round in, but the rotor is stopped just shy of allowing that. Failing that, look at the picture in the first post. You can get a great idea of the location from that.

I gave up on both the black and clear 10-round 10/22 mags. I now use the Tandemkross Doublekross. https://www.tandemkross.com/Double-Kross-1022®-Magazine-Body-for-the-Ruger®-1022®-Rotary-Magazines_p_226.html Just take the guts out of your single mags and reassemble. Make mag changes a lot easier and faster.

Wow. Didn't look to see that this was a 2016 thread.

That's a bummer. All five of mine go years on the same battery. I now make a habit of changing them once a year. The first time one went several years before the sight did the triple flash thing to let you know to replace the battery. I put a new one in and was astonished at how much brighter the dot was. Evidently it continually gets dimmer as the battery wears down, but so slowly you don't notice.

Another AMG vote. It easily picks up uncompensated rimfire rifles without you having to crowd the shooter or hold the timer in front of him. It is also excellent at NOT picking up shots from adjacent bays.

I've never seen anyone shoot one. All I see are bone stock Victorys or those that have been moded out the wazoo with Volquartsen goodies and barrels.

Check the voltage of a new battery before you use it. A good, new battery should read 3.27V or higher. I buy them 20 at a time and measure them. I often find some that were almost dead (2.8V). The last batch of Energizer batteries I got all read between 3.0V and 3.1V. So I'm never using that supplier again.

I would suggest you take a serious look at the Cheely Custom e2 grip. I have the standard. It is in between the Evo standard and aggressive. Their aggressive and super aggressive is too much for me. The Cheely std. allows me to shift my grip to reach the mag release, but never slips in my hands no matter how sweaty in August. I'm suggesting you look at the Cheely because it should go straight onto a DVC frame with no fitting. That is not the case with an Evo. The Cheely e2 grip is slightly smaller and more rounded than the Evo. It fits my medium hand perfectly. The Evo feels more squarish and is not as comfortable for me.

I have used several kits from EGW. They do not match them in any way. They simply pull the parts out of the parts bins, drop them in a bag and call it a kit. Every one of the kits dropped in and was usable as is, after adjusting the new sear spring. That tells you how good there parts really are. That being said, I'm anal about triggers. So I polished everything and made sure everything had perfectly even engagement. About 10 minutes with a super fine ceramic stone and everything that mattered was mirror bright, smooth and perfect. I do not know what Atlas does to 'precision match' the EGW parts. I do know that Brazos Custom, a custom builder and expert on STI pistols offers a trigger kit that he has reworked. His kit is specifically set to drop into an STI pistol. Many on these forums rave about how well they work after literally dropping them in. Atlas uses PT frames (and a few JEMs) in his builds. He builds great guns. However, if I were going to bet, I'd say he makes sure they are perfect for perfect frames. STI frames are not perfect, so Brazos tunes his for them. The best thing you can do is talk to each and ask questions. Explain your concerns and ask what the likelihood of a perfect fit is. BTW, the EGW sear has the least meat where the thumb safety engages it. So if your existing sear is fatter, you will have to peen the TS and refit it. I usually start with an EGW sear. It the TS doesn't work I move up to an Extreme Engineering/Cylinder & Slide sear. That is fatter where is counts and often will allow the TS to work without refitting. Since a lot of people use EE parts, that often works. In bad cases you can always go to a Harrison Custom sear. They are the fattest I know of. You will almost definitely have to remove some material from the TS. BTW, you can order the Harrison Custom sear with a TrueRadius already on it. That will allow you to drop it in and do nothing (except fit the TS) unless the hammer hooks are not evenly engaged, That is super easy to address.

With both my RTS2v4s the battery drains quickly. So I turn them off after each stage. The batteries in my DPPs and SROs last seemingly forever, so I just leave them on. Same with the Burris FF3s. Sliderides and Railways get turned off after every stage. My Sig Romeo 1 gets turned off at the end of the match, assuming I remember.

Using the Gen 2 STI 21 round 9/38 mags, I get 25 in with a 4G2 pad and 24 with a 3G2 pad. They are reloadable with a slam. I download them by one so a slight snick is that is required to seat the mag. The 4G does not fit the gauge. I don't rally care, because I shoot Open. The only downside to using the 7G2 pads is you have to go to a 13-coil spring. I'm not sure that would get you to 29 reloadable. I'd rather just buy a big stick. I'm really happy with mt MBX 170 and 155 mags.

I long ago gave up on the Dillon powder measure. The Hornady is much more precise and consistent.

I use the same holster setup for USPSA and SCSA, so I adjusted y holster to accommodate each draw styles. Whether it's a hands relaxed at sides draw, or a surrender draw, I want the gun to come straight out without canting left or right, or torquing back or forward. In other words, no resistance to the draw. For me that points the muzzle 2" in front of my right foot and 2" to the side. It took a considerable amount of tweaking to get it dialed in for both sports.

If you are shooting 9mm major with an efficient comp, two 3/16" poppels is the best IMO. Binary Engineering did a flow analysis using his comp with and without poppels and determined that anything smaller than two 3/16" poppels was a wast of time. Personally, I would not put a poppel in the comp threads unless the barrel and comp are one piece, or the comp is pinned and welded on.

I wasn't going to post a recommendation here, because any number of good builders have been mentioned. One that has not is Cheely Custom (not CK Arms). Anyway, I wanted to second the suggestion you consider 9mm major. If I got my brass for free, or money was no object, I'd shoot 38SC. Since neither is the case, and all my matches are (for me) lost brass matches, I decided to go with 9mm major. I do not regret the decision. I buy fully processed (including primer pocket swaging and roll sizing) same HS brass for 5 cents each. They run through the press like butter with zero rejects in the Shockbottle. My load of 10.2gr Major Pistol powder under a 115 @ 1.161" makes 169PF with an SD of 4.9. The powder isn't even compressed. I'm really glad I didn't listen to all who were peddling stories about how horrible 9mm major was. They were all wrong. I put 8,000 of the load I mentioned above through the gun this season with zero problems of any kind. And I don't have to crawl all over the place after the match to scrounge up any of the 38SC brass I could find.

Yours has a problem. Send it back for repair. All of mine are still running the same battery they came with.

I have 5 Burris FFIII 8 MOA, two RTS2v4 6 MOA, Railway 12 MOA, three DPP 2.5 MOA, a Sign Romeo 1 2 MOA, and 3 SRO 5 MOA. I have had a problem with only on of the FFIIIs at 40,000 rounds slide mounted on my 1911 45 pistol the little plastic cover over the LED tunnel cracked and fell off. The sight still worked fine. Burris insisted I return it for replacement, so I did. I've had no problems with the RTS2s, except they all eat batteries. I can get exactly one steel challenge match out of a battery before the dot dims. With one of them, the dot gets dimmer before the end of the match, even if I turn it off between stages. One was slide mounted on my 1911 22 conversion unit. Worked fine, except for batteries. I've only had the Railway a month, so I can't speak to that. It's mounted on my RFRO gun. I can say I've shot three matches with the same battery and the dot is still bright. My old one couldn't say that. One of the DPPs had to go back because the dot kept turning off. It was fixed and now works fine. One (not the one that broke) was slide mounted on a 1911 22 conversion slide. It worked fine in two seasons of SCSA (about 7,000 rounds). I originally bought the DPPs because an M Open shooter I shoot with has had the original DP slide mounted on his major Open gun for four seasons. It has never failed and never lost zero. I've been shooting two of the SROs frame mounted on Open guns for two months, so I have no useful opinion on their longevity. I do like them better than all of the others. The third is waiting to go on a PCC if it ever arrives.