eggman

I made this stand for 625 loaded moonclips to fit in the Snapon toolbag that also serves as a seat . It holds more than enough loaded moonclips for a 6 stage IDPA match.

I had heard that Carry Optics was SSP with optics but reading the allowed modifications in the provisional rules it lists mag wells as allowed . Is that how you all read it ? The reason I ask is I'm thinking of milling the slide for an optic sight on a P-09 that I have installed a mag well on that I used to shoot in ESP.

I think you will like Prima SV . I wished I had tried it before I bought 10 bottles of the second lot of Prima V .

It's alive and well for me too ! I started shooting revolvers last year at this time in the REV class in local IDPA matches . I signed up for a tier 2 IDPA match last summer to shoot REV and finished 3rd out of 7 in my class. I haven't picked up a another pistol to shoot a match with since then and I am now hooked on revolvers but good . There is at the most two other revolvers shooting local matches with me but most of the time it's just me . I'm not the fastest but it's not unusual for me to finish most accurate . The only way I'll get faster is to stick with it so that's what I plan to do .This year I've signed up for a Tier 2 and a Tier 3 match and I plan to shoot both with a revolver.

Thanks Bill . When I first did a search for motels I either got Bed & Breakfasts or motels in Oxford, England . I kept looking a did find a Comfort Inn so I booked a room there . So, I guess we are set and are looking forward to the match.

I am registered to shoot the Carolina Cup at The Range in Oxford, NC for the first time . I was hoping I could get some motel suggestions ideally near the range . Thanks for any help with this I'm really looking forward to the match. I missed getting registered for the Tenn State IDPA match so was glad I got registered for the Cup before it filled up.

I have one of the BMT mooners for loading moonclips for my 646 and had some difficulty getting the 40 S&W cartridges to stay upright while sliding down the chute . I found that I could squeeze the outside of the chute to slow up the slide down the chute and use my thumb inside the back of the chute( behind the row of cartridges) to spread the walls slightly to speed up the slide down . Tilting it to the right degree of angle , squeezing when needed and spreading with my thumb when needed I've got it working pretty slick right now . I have noticed that when it is close to freezing temps this method doesn't work as well as warmer temps . You may well have a BMT out of spec but try this and see if it helps .

I've seen 9mm moonclips used in IDPAish matches (just for fun matches) but not IDPA matches that strictly follow IDPA rules . I do not think 9mm is an approved cartridge for Revolver in IDPA.

I switched to shooting a Revolver last spring and am mostly reloading 38 special . Prior to switching to revolver 80% of my reloading was 9mm minor using Prima V . The last lot of Prima V wasn't the same Prima V I started with and seemed dirtier and accuracy wasn't the same so I started loading Prima SV using 1 or 2 tenths of a grain less powder than my usual Prima V loads . I really liked the Prima SV over the newer lot of Prima V . The SV had a softer recoil and was some cleaner . If Prima V is not available now I would recommend to anyone to try Prima SV for 9mm minor.

I just traded for a NIB S&W 66-8 4.25" barrel Combat 357 and am really surprised with the quality of the revolver . My favorite 66 is the 66-5 2000 era (mainly because of it being pre-lock but still having a replaceable pinned front sight) but wasn't able to find one for a backup to my main 66-5 so I opted for a new one . Very accurate out of the box with a heavy but smooth trigger pull . I also noticed it has a ball detent on the crane for when it closes on the frame . I've not seen this except on custom Smith's . All in all I think this is a perfect revolver for IDPA or will be with lighter springs, Apex competition firing pin and a Dawson fiber optic front sight .I don't have very large hands and I really like my 625 and my 686 but for IDPA day in and day out I think the 66 is hard to beat.

My favorite is e3 but for clean burning and ease of metering Vectan Ba-10 is my most used under 160 gr, coated LRN from SnS .

I just started shooting REV division in IDPA this year so I have started counting shots to prevent pulling the trigger on an empty cylinder . When I first started shooting the revolver this would happen at least three times in a 6 stage match and now not as much . I might pull the trigger on a spent cylinder once during a match when I lose track of my round count and have completed a couple of matches without doing this at all so I am improving . In IDPA I can't let unfired rounds hit the ground without picking them up so I can't reload everytime I move . However if I can get my round count to allow me to reload while I'm moving I do so. I was once told that shooting a revolver in IDPA makes every stage a limited stage .

As I understand the IDPA moonclip rules each moonclip is considered a loading device not the moonclip holder so I keep one post holder with two moonclips stacked in front of holster and one holder behind holster with two moonclips stacked (I use a strong hand reload ). I have used this configuration in Tier 2 match equipment inspections. Following is what I copied from the 2017 rulebook : E. Two speed loaders/moon clips may be worn directly in front of the holster. The speed loaders/moon clips worn in front of the holster must be within 1” of each other, and the speed loader/moon clip nearest the holster must be within 1” of the revolver pouch of the holster.

I started shooting Revolver in IDPA just this year with a 625 PC w/moonclips because I was intimidated by my inexperience using speedloaders . Started practicing with a 66 4" and speedloaders . Then after a Tier 2 match this year I start shooting only the 66 using speedloaders in my monthly local matches. Recently I picked up a S&W 646 that I would have to load 40 S&W to 155 PF and use moonclips but can't seem to make a fast or smooth reload with moonclips. Shooting the EL Prez I am two seconds slower now using the 646 with moonclips than I am shooting the 66 4" using comp III speedloaders . I had always thought moonclips were faster reloading than moonclips but now I'm not so sure . However, I do think 45acp in moonclips load better than 40 S&W in moonclips and propably just need to practice more with the 646 .

I noticed this company "Grizzly Targets" has quite a few 2x4 mounted targets . I've not purchased anything from them but here is a link to check out and see if they have something similar . https://www.grizzlytargets.com/ar500-steel-plates-and-gongs/

I've been plagued with primers not seated deep enough with my Dillon 550b . I checked for all the usual issues (primer ram ,etc.)that have been mentioned but What seemed to be the cure was lightly swaging all my primer pockets ahead of time to load with a Dillon 600 Super Swage. I also did away with my Ergo press handle and went back to a straight ball handle press handle that allows for more pressure being applied to the seating of the primer. I load for revolvers that have all had the actions worked and had been told to use only Federal primers and to hand prime only but I wanted to try and make do with the Dillon priming system and for now the swaging of my primer pockets has helped as much as anything.

I have not found the Federal Magnum primers to be any less sensitive than the Federal standard primers but I do reduce my powder charge about 1/10th of a grain . I try to keep my brass sorted into lots of 100 pcs and when I start getting several split cases on the same firing I will trash the whole lot of 100 pcs. I need to keep better records because I'm not sure actually how many firings I get on 1x fired brass or new brass.

I use only Federal small pistol primers for Federal Magnum small pistol primers .That said ...I have noticed that with even good quality US manufactured 38 special brass after only just a couple firings I have trouble seating primers to the depth I need to have reliable firing . I think it is due to the firing pin "bushings" on my Smith and Wesson revolvers being slightly convex . S&W does this I assume to prevent a fired primer from binding the cylinder during it's rotation. It is more noticeable in my 610 and 646 Smith's loading 40 S&W but also notice this with 38 special brass in my 686 and 66's . So, I have started swaging all my primer pockets lightly with a Dillon 600 Super Swager and so far it is working well and I haven't had any primer pockets become too loose . I will swage new brass or once fired brass the first loading and after that anytime I notice difficulties seating primers which is usually two firings after the initial swaging. If I could not purchase Federal Primers I would most likely use Winchester Small Pistol Primers and turn my strain screw in some until I got reliable ignition or replace with longer strain screw.

Your post reminded me that I have a gallon of Ed's Red I mixed up several years ago when I was still shooting benchrest . I ended up shelving it in favor of solvents that would remove copper fouling . From what I remember Ed's Red worked great on powder fouling in my match rifles so that should be just the ticket for my revolvers . I'll give it a try again and Thanks !

I appreciate the reply's to my question . I probably clean my revolvers more often than needed and just didn't want to cause any harm to the 646 cylinder.

I just purchased a S&W 646 non-performance center revolver . It's the first revolver I've owned with a titanium cylinder and wanted to know what I should use to clean the cylinder . I've been told not to use any abrasive cleaner or "scotch-brite" pads and that is the extent of my knowledge . I've always use a bronze brush with Hoppe's #9 to clean the chambers on SS cylinders where I've shot 38 special in a 357 chamber and 40 S&W in a 10mm chamber . Is a bronze brush soaked in Hoppe's #9 too abrasive for titanium ? Also, are those lead cleaning cloths okay to use like the one's Outers and others sell ? I just wanted to hear from others with more experience on cleaning titanium cylinders .

I am using Federal #200 primers in my revolvers for the same reason and don't see much difference except that I can back off 1 tenth of a grain of powder and still be at or above my desired PF .

I have one that is for small rifle primer pockets when I shot benchrest . That might work until I can find one for small pistol pockets. I'm thinking there is a difference dimensionally but can't remember for certain.

I use an eleven pound recoil spring and my PF last time I checked was about 140ish PF. This was using an STI Eagle 2011.

I would say 3 to 5% of my fired brass is the problem brass as well . The percentage increases the more times it's fired . With my mag fed pistols I might have problems with a few tight primer pockets with new or once fired but decreases each time the brass is fired ...but not so with this revolver .