eggman

When I have to set up and staple targets when rain is eminent I have had good luck with a clear bag from McMaster-Carr item # 4166T12 . It is 1 mil thick 48" circumference and 40" tall . 100 bags per roll . They are not inexpensive but fit is perfect.

Ditto

For IDPA revolver competition I favor about any 66 over the 686 and of the 66's I prefer the 66-5 mainly because it is still pre-lock and has a pinned front sight . I do have a 66-2 that saw a lot of use before I bought it that is really sweet after Joe at Mojo Custom did his magic and also converting it's orange insert front sight to a pinned FS . It has the lightest trigger of all my 66's and is the only 66 I have that doesn't have the frame mounted firing pin. I had a 66 no-dash and didn't like the recessed cylinder.

Something like this might help as I've polished the Xtra small powder bar but still have trouble with Clay dot and e3 dropping accurately (it's bridging I assume). RS Competition is working great but I have probably a lifetime supply of Clay Dot and e3 that I would like to use up. Rodney

I really like Clays but I cannot get accurate measuring from a Dillon 550 using Clay's , Clay Dot, or e3 so I've settled on RamShot Competition for 38 Short Colt, 38 Special and 40 S&W revolver loads . It measures accurately , burns clean , not temp sensitive like WST, and has a good recoil "feel" . I usually shoot heavy for caliber coated round nose bullets in all my revolvers . 160 gr. for 38sc , 165 or 170 gr. for 38 special and 190 or 200 gr. for 40 S&W .FWIW.

Is the extractor rod returning when you eject spent cases ? I'm thinking it is the centerpin spring bound up. When I first tried to disassemble my 66-8 extractor spring/rod assembly I was stumped until I realized The 66-8 extractor rod is different than the 66-2 etc. extractor rods in that you have to unscrew the knurled cap off and it has reverse threads also the centerpin is very short and easy to loose if you drop it (yep I dropped mine). I'd be interested what others say about this problem.

I will have to check my 610-3 as I've only had the hammer removed to install a Apex DAO hammer and haven't messed with the trigger .I did have S&W install a new fluted cylinder to replace the huge unfluted cylinder (that it came with from factory) and that improved my trigger pull more than anything I've done besides changing springs.

I prefer the Dawson .110" width FO on my pinned front sight revolvers. However on the revolvers that have the quick change front sight I prefer the SDM . I have had the Dawson front sight get knocked off during a stage where the SDM will stay in place . The extra length of the SDM prevents it from getting removed accidently but does make it a little bit harder to install or remove when you chose to.

I have two 625 PC's the first one leaded badly starting at the cone . The cone is longer than the 625 JM because of the shorter cylinder but the 2nd 625 PC doesn't lead at all . I ended up just using jacketed Zero bullets in the first one to keep from having to continually fight the lead buildup .

I have a 3 9/16" 610 unfluted that the previous owner had deeply chamfered the charge holes to the extent the extractor tips were as sharp as needles . The tips were so thin they started breaking off which causes the cylinder to get out of time . S&W said they had been out of new cylinders for several years so I ended up replacing just the extractor and put the revolver in the safe. When I heard S&W was coming back out with the 610 I called and asked to have my unfluted cylinder replaced with the new 610 fluted cylinder . I shipped it to the factory and am now waiting on a quote for the work . I never did like the unfluted cylinder on my 610 and look forward to getting this revolver back with the new cylinder .

I use a Loctite threadlocker 290 it is a medium wicking grade and will "wick" into the threads . Like if you have the strain screw or whatever screw "just right" and don't want to back it out to apply blue Loctite you can use the 290 . If you do apply too much and a screwdriver won't back the screw out again a little heat applied will get it turning . It's good stuff .

My Dillon 550 just will not meter Clay's, e3 or and large flake powder so I've been using RamShot Competition . My standard match load is a 165 gr. Ibejihead over 2.8 grs RamShot Competition at 1.53" OAL for 160 gr. I use 3.0 grs. Competition at 1.53" OAL and for what I think is going to be my new favorite bullet the 170 gr. NLG RN B&B casting (Tony Moser) I'm using 2.7 grs Competition at 1.54" OAL. All of these loads will make power factor from a 4" barrel for IDPA with enough extra to knock over steel so they might give you a good starting point to work up a load for USPSA power factor.

I bought a slightly used 610 that the cylinder and extractor had been aggressively chamfered . In just a few months of shooting local IDPA matches with the 610 the tips of the extractor started breaking off . This didn't really affect extraction because I was using moonclips but the cosmetics bothered me and had to have Eli at TK Custom to install and time a new extractor . Since then any revolver I'm doing cylinder work on I make sure to go easy on the extractor and just break the edges slightly. FWIW

That's good to know . 2.7 grs was kinda what I was thinking about and seat the 165 gr. bullet same depth in case as 160 gr. bullet.

My current 38 Short Colt load is 160 gr. .358" LRN seated to 1.19" OAL and 3.0 grs RamShot Competition . I was thinking of trying the 165 gr. Ibejihead bullet which I like in 38 special . Not sure what OAL to try and how much to reduce my current powder load . I was hoping someone else has tried this bullet in 38SC .

There are several tools you can buy but the chuck on a small hand drill works just fine to tighten extractor rod . However don't use it like a drill just tighten the chuck on the rod and turn by hand .

I shoot mostly Ibejihead 160 RN and the 165 gr. NLG RN is a really great bullet . I will use Bayou 160 gr. when he runs a free shipping special on a case order. My Dillon 550 will not meter Clay, Clay Dot or American Select powders consistently so I've settled on RamShot Competition as it's clean burning and doesn't seem to be as position sensitive as some powders. I am loading 3.0 grs with the 160 gr. and 2.8 grs with the 165 gr. NLG both with a 1.53" OAL at about 112 PF from a 4" S&W 66 .

Here is a picture of a little pistol shooting area that I have set up at our farm. I set it up in what I think is an old, old quarry as it has three sides which prevents any stray rounds leaving the range . It is a work in progress as you can see....

https://dryfiretech.com/

My TK .040" 40 S&W moon clips arrived today and I was able to give them a try. First off I found that R-P headstamp brass fit loose but would not fall out when reloading but the Win brass still fit the best . The extra thickness of this moonclip seems to have solved my primer light strikes and was even able to go back to a 9 lb. hammer spring with no misfires . So, in all these moonclips were everything I had hoped for and plan to be shooting the 10mm gp-100 in my next IDPA match just for something different.

I failed to mention in my post about my moonclip experience with my GP-100 has been with 40 S&W . Although I have 300 pieces of new Starline 10mm Auto brass all my shooting has been with 40 S&W reloads. With my S&W 610 I can use the same moonclips with 40 S&W and 10mm with no problems however with the Ruger GP-100 moonclips there is a headspace problem using .032" moonclips (and I have experienced light strikes using Federal primers with 40 S&W brass with .032" moonclips) . TK is making a moonclip .040" just for 40 S&W that will hopefully take care of my light strikes . I have ordered some to try and if they work I might just be able to go with a lighter hammer spring. I had high hopes of using this pistol in IDPA for something different as I usually shoot speedloader fed S&W revolvers but the light strikes have been problematic.

I had missed this too . Probably explains my other issue with the 10mm GP-100.

I realize this is an old post but just recently bought a GP-100 10mm and thought I would share my moonclip experience in case it helps someone else. I purchased a pack of 10 TK moonclips for the GP 100 10mm Match Champion and found the fit was too loose with just about any brass except for Win headstamp. Federal was also loose but would remain in moonclip from holder on belt to cylinder during reload . R-P and Starline brass would not stay in moonclip during reload as I would have at least one cartridge fall out. With Win brass the TK moonclips work great and this combination is my choice for matches . I am using Ruger moonclips to shoot the non-Win headstamp ammo I have already loaded for my 646.

Paul the friend of mine that got me into shooting IDPA and then shooting REV in IDPA is shooting a 38/357 4" Chiappa and doing quite well . He won REV division at the VA State IDPA match this year and REV Division at The Carolina Cup two weeks ago . He uses Comp III speedloaders that he has cut down and he also has to alter the internals slightly to get them to release the cartridges in the Rhino cylinder. The only problem I am aware of that he has had with the Rhino was breaking a firing pin at a local match . The firing pin broke after thousands of dry fires in practice and a year of monthly matches I thinking. It is a real treat to watch him shoot and hope to be as good as him when I grow up.

Yes, I got the Delrin sheet and Aluminium rod from McMaster-Carr . I tapped a hole in the flat end of rods and ran a countersunk screw from the bottom of Delrin sheet to fasten .