drewbeck

If you're not trying to make money doing it, PATIENCE and the few appropriate hand tools and the manuals / youtube (with a grain of salt) will give you enough info to do it correctly. Your first won't be your best, and you shouldn't expect it to be perfect, but it isn't rocket science as long as you put it down regularly to think and figure out what needs to be done next and what is causing it to hang up. Much like anything if you are results focused rather than caring about the process, it's going to be frustrating. If you plan on ruining a barrel in order to learn in the process you'll likely be happy with how it turns out. If on the other hand you're trying to save money, you're better off letting someone do it. It's when the problems arise that you'll have a whole different level of understanding and respect for the professional gunsmith trying to earn a living building and fixing guns when you've spent 15 hours fitting a barrel and the timing isn't quite right. It's fun and should be its own hobby vs thinking it will save you money. (not saying that in your case, just saying)

Ya Harbor freight, I think it's called a garage door bug screen.

Where was the dot when the gun went off (not when you pulled the trigger) and you had a flier? And yes, you can test accuracy without a rest, you just have to be able to see the dot when the gun goes off and ignore "fliers" that are really trigger pull issues. If the hole is where the dot WAS when the gun fired, the gun is accurate. a flier or two in 6 is likely an ammo issue, meaning 1 or two out of six is inconsistent. If they are Consistently inconsistent ( meaning grouping in their own way to the left, it's likely a trigger pull issue. having a known decent shooter shoot the gun to verify the inconsistencies will be the quickest way to confirm ammo, gun, or shooter. Everything is a variable and it's a lot less frustrating to confirm it's you or the gun or ammo. If it's a you issue, you'll spend a lot less time fixing it then you will chasing your tail with ammo or guns only to realize it was you. Im not saying it is you, I'm only saying that you need to confirm it isn't you before you spend the time figuring out whatever else the issue could be

There's a big dip on recoil, try going down a lb or two on recoil spring and up 2-4 lb on mainspring. You'll also want to try opposite geometry on the firing pin stop as you currently have as part of the testing. I.e. If it rounded, try a steep slope cut with all springs. You'll see more difference in slow vid that in the dot initially

Canary yellow trigger ? Gun looks spicy!

And yes all of those things can cause the issues you're having but you gotta eliminate you, until you can call your shots and eliminate you from the equation

Have someone else shoot it that you know is capable of pulling the trigger straight back consistently. Same pattern = gun, not so much = you.... either way, you'll know what needs to be fixed

Another Rick Hebert customer here

By the way, the broken blaster stage at the ULSC, those were some serious GM gun flip magwell inspector skills on display. Right before that, it was also a pretty awesome lesson on recoil anticipation vs. a typical trigger flinch for those that noticed

New barrel, likely new comp. have you tried 9 in it? Do a search but many have had success. I personally don't have any experience doing it

My experience is that the frame, grip (if steel) and barrel last the longest. On light open guns, my slides crack before they wear too loose or have breech face erosion. I think that's why it's so important to have a local GS or learn to do the work yourself. If you're shooting an open gun a lot, it will be a continual replacement of parts process. This is the same reason I don't think it's worth the money to get a premium finish on the gun beyond cerakote. Keeps things easy and cheap to match replacement parts. Every part on a open gun is a consumable in my opinion, the "gun" doesn't really have a lifespan, it's really a matter to the condition of any/all parts at any given time. The gun is more worn every time you shoot it and it's more "new" every time you replace something Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My experience is that the frame, grip (if steel) and barrel last the longest. On light open guns, my slides crack before they wear too loose or have breech face erosion. I think that's why it's so important to have a local GS or learn to do the work yourself. If you're shooting an open gun a lot, it will be a continual replacement of parts process. This is the same reason I don't think it's worth the money to get a premium finish on the gun beyond cerakote. Keeps things easy and cheap to match replacement parts. Every part on a open gun is a consumable in my opinion, the "gun" doesn't really have a lifespan, it's really a matter to the condition of any/all parts at any given time. The gun is more worn every time you shoot it and it's more "new" every time you replace something Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Life expectancy of what? Different parts will break at different points

Gotta keep pictures like that to yourself! Nuked

Ya getting the comp to fit on the barrel is one thing, timing it is a whole different part of the equation... I counterbore the comp in lieu of threading the barrel longer. That way you don't have to shorten the slide typically

I was talking with Charlie about this issue this weekend. I was saying that now with two different guns, one with RTS2 and one with DPP, I said that the shorty dot "explodes" vs tracks up and down on my heavier mid length gun. He said that the biggest thing he noticed on this was where the dot was mounted (front to back) on the gun and that different mounts had different locations. I forget if you were using the vertical or setback CMore mount but whichever it was that you liked, try to find a DPP mount that locates the glass in the same location and the dot should track the same as long as all else is constant. You'd also want to go back to the same springs and FPS as well as thumbrest to make it an equal comparison. I'll be doing the same as I'm currently dealing with it as opposed to loving it!

I know it's more cash to outlay but try the Rts2 or Romeo sight. I struggled with the shape of the dpp glass and finding the dot but the round shape of rts2 is just like the slideride and don't have issues

I have a 11/16-40 tap if you need To run it through the comp, I think it's better to go that way than cut down a fitted barrel in case the comp cracks

Ya, in my experience, don't know why they go by different dimensions but they do. If I'm wrong someone chime in

Check the VIS of the frame, how peened is it? did it run good until failure? Looks like the lower lug was sheared off rather than pulled off. How wallowed/carved out was the link? my barsto although CP cut was .045+ long on the lower lug. If not corrected the lower or upper is gonna shear off. Link can be ground out to make it run temporarily but that's gonna kill the barrel, frame, or slide likely before the link breaks. I'm no expert, just my experience with getting a barsto to run

The general shape looks similar to trjicon RMR's but this one is way bigger. What's this pic from, looks like the guy is holding it up to his eye like a rifle.... love to see the YouTube vid of slide to face punch

I would say that by using .40 for open you are outside the bounds of "conventional wisdom" and discussions regarding open reloading in general. Key factors that contribute to this is the fact that the majority of open guns are built in .38 or 9mm based on the fact that .40 is at a disadvantage of mag capacity size limitations that WILL cost a person time over the course of a match. Maybe not every stage or even that much time but there will be opportunities that someone can exploit or have less risk in a stage that will impact their match score. This fact pushes people to .38/9 variants. If there was a 20rnd mag limit in open, I think you'd see a lot more .40 shooters but since there isn't a mag limit we get forced into .38/9mm So now we have to work within the .38/9mm case limitations and the requirements of making power factor and keeping loads within length limits that fit magazines. .38 has far less limitations from a reloading stand point as the larger case capacity is easier to work withing the pressure limitations of the case. However, 9mm is a much smaller case and to achieve PF you have to deliver a smaller bullet within a totally different velocity range than a typical .40 heavier bullet would require. So then you get into how to do this within the pressure limits of the case. Reducing the volume, increases increases the pressure (think balloon) if everything else remains constant. Bigger bullets decrease case capacity which increases pressure developed from a specific weight load. Increasing pressure will increase velocity up and to the point that the pressure is too great for the case to handle the spike as the powder burns. If the spike is too fast this increase in pressure overcomes the strength limits of the case quicker than the time it takes to relieve the pressure spike of ignition. The pressure spike is reduced back to zero by increasing the volume of the case which happens as the bullet leaves the case and continues to decrease as the bullet leaves the barrel. So to the way to push smaller bullets to higher velocities, we have to overcome and decrease the initial pressure spike from ignition to be within safe limits. To do that, you have to slow the burn rate down so it burns and develops pressure slower and continues to develop pressure for a longer period of time than a fast powder would. As the bullet starts moving, volume is increasing as the powder is still developing pressure which allows for a higher amount of total developed energy while still working within a more confined starting point. What this really means is that the majority of open shooters are forced into a very small range of possible options that meet all required criteria of playing the game. With .40, you are at a huge advantage of options and choices for what you can try and find works best for you. More gas works the comp better but comp design efficiency is also a big part of that equation. I'd say you're a pioneer and there hasn't been nearly the focused effort on determing the ideal setup in .40 like there has in .38/9mm so do whatever feels best to you. The other thing is people saying fast powders won't work the comp just isn't true. The comp is used to focus the release of energy in a way that offsets a force so you get the most benefit from all the energy developed. Most comps are designed to maximize the use of larger volumes of gas because that larger volume of gas is developed by the requirement of getting the velocity needed to make major. What this really means is that most open comps won't work on less gas because they were never intended to do so. Looking at comp designs that were developed for different pressure requirements, there are comps that will work, we just don't use them because they don't work with the crap ton of gas we develop as a byproduct of making major velocities. I think WST would be awesome recoil feel with 180's if you can find a comp to maximize the use of the small volume of gas being developed

Take holster to ace...doi

I'd sell my FA separator for umm, free if anyone wants to pay shipping. Prob $ 5-8 bucks depending. It works, just sitting on a shelf though. Let me know

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/414369/frankford-arsenal-quick-n-ez-case-tumbler-master-kit-with-quick-n-ez-rotary-media-separator-110-volt?cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Reloading+-+Metallic+Reloading+Equipment+(Not+Presses)-_-Frankford+Arsenal-_-414369&gclid=CJi3xLOqutMCFVi1wAoduPYF-w buy this it's bigger and has everything for $10 more. i think the Lyman's is an inch or two smaller, I ran at least 800 or a 1,000 cases at a time for a long time before it gave up on me. I have the 18lb harbor freight one now and it sits full of polished brass for a long time before I get to it. The small ones like Lyman and FA , I had to run every couple days. Use or buy a Christmas light timer after the holidays if you keep it in a place that you don't hear well. It really comes down to available space and how often you want to run the thing that should guide what size to buy. the big one sounds awesome until you have 5-6 five gallon buckets of brass that have to be sorted before you tumble them. or give up dealing with it all together and buy once fired, roll sized, deprived brass sorted by headstanp from Kenny for $50/1,000 and sell it after you shoot it for $20/K like all else, it's time or money, pick the one you have more of