drewbeck

I'm not a GS but I've built a few and ask a lot of questions. From measuring a handful of guns if you're talking purely width oversized by .002 you'd still be on the tighter side of things for sure. I true rattle can is probably closer to .010 clearances on the sides. Vertical clearance is far more detrimental to accuracy and good lockup because the recoil spring has to have enough oomph to stand the barrel up on the lower lugs with enough force to get the slide lifted up enough to take out the vertical stacking play in the assembly. With vertical slide its harder to get the lower lug cut right so that it is tight enough to get a consistent lockup but not so tight that it malfunctions and binds. Keep the vertical clearance to .001 or less and you should be good. My last slide that I had done for me was far looser laterally than I preferred and the rattle when it was clean drove me crazy but the gun grouped well at 100yds and it ran... so who am I to argue. Most of the slide fit really boils down to perception in quality vs actually being mo betta. This is all just my observations and opinion, other who are just as correct with chime in with the exact opposite answer. Either way, jump in and have fun, your first won't be perfect and you'll be onto the next soon enough

Ya, if the screw is integral to the button, use pliers and get it tight. You'll have to bear down pretty damn hard relative to what you've been doing to twist it off. When it starts feeling like it's stretching and starts being springy, it's tight enough. If it's feel springy then goes slightly mushy, you're at or passing the screws elongation and plasticity limits. I.e. You're gonna twist it off very soon so stop. Go a little, remember how it felt, if it comes loose go a little further next time, it's not the end of the world if it snaps just a slightly bigger pia

Defiantly Agee.....sounds aggressive. How definitively does one have to agree with the statement to classify themselves as being defiant? i like it!

The screw is probably bottoming out in the release before it gets tight enough to lock the button. Try the screw without the button and see if it will go in all the way. If it won't, file a thread length off until it does. If it does go all the way, loctite red but detail clean the gun before you do it. That way in 6 months it will be more likely to pop loose. If it's stubborn, use smooth pliers on the button as you turn the screw with the Allen to break it loose.

You referring to a ballistic calc made me think you were concerned with actual wind in the "windage" reference. if your just worried about the poi vs poa shifting due to the slight lateral offset, don't even think about trying to figure it out with math. Just zero your gun at the distance you want and then test every 5 yards from 5-50 so you know what your load does at those ranges in case you ever need it. i was surprised to find out that I was zero at 15 and 100yards

Hope you have a delorean... J/k, someone has too but I'm no help, sorry. You might check the bay for a used one

The ballistic calc should be able to do windage as well. It will assume full value wind i.e., 100% cross wind, so you'd need to derate the wind value according to the angle it's hitting you. Full head wind is 0 impact, full crosswind is 100% saying a cmore mount leads me to believe you're concerned about windage with a pistol... if that's true don't be, it's wasted brain effort closer than 100 yards, if the wind if blowing hard enough to move a bullet at uspsa ranges, you're gonna be hard pressed to hold the pistol still enough to hit the target as it is

The ballistic calc should be able to do windage as well. It will assume full value wind i.e., 100% cross wind, so you'd need to derate the wind value according to the angle it's hitting you. Full head wind is 0 impact, full crosswind is 100% saying a cmore mount leads me to believe you're concerned about windage with a pistol... if that's true don't be, it's wasted brain effort closer than 100 yards, if the wind if blowing hard enough to move a bullet at uspsa ranges, you're gonna be hard pressed to hold the pistol still enough to hit the target as it is

Agreed, a dremel and then a good buff and you got a solid 2 port comp going on. did you finish the mag?

I had the same issue at A3, had been on the same battery for months, figured I should change it before a big match. I changed it and then proceeded to watch 4 batteries run dead in minutes. Borrowed a new Sony battery and haven't changed it since. Moral of the story, buy the .28 cent batteries instead of the $.12 cent ones and you won't have issues.

Haven't tried the evo, but in my other two (smooth and aggressive) The sv bow needs shaping to work well. Being that they are TI it's more work to make them work and fit well in my experience. Steel grips are way less forgiving from a fit perspective than the plastic sti grips are. Everglades makes a stainless bow alumin gunsmith blank that I'm going to try in my next gun. Sv's work fine though

Tri topping removes more material, less material = thinner section properties which also equates to less mass. Less moving mass equates to less recoiling inertia which can equate to less muzzle flip. Thinner steel sectional properties equates to more fragility.....moral of the story, lighter is better but cracks easier. It's less of a concern in minor but it still happens, it also happens more often due to casting and metallurgy than the gunsmith. Slides are a consumable and you only live once, buy what you like

I've had better luck with the Novak hinge style than the. Omar with the pin or the elliason. My issue was the pin in the bomar walking out....its all fun and games til a sight hits you in the forehead

I don't think you're getting a benefit or advantage from where it's set, it could be subjective whether or not it's less than 2"....However, I could see you being at a huge mental disadvantage if you have to change it right before a stage at a major and disrupting your game. I think it's really a matter of whether you can handle the mental mind f-$&@ if someone makes you change it. If that doesn't matter, I'd leave it if I believed I was within the rule. Otherwise I'd change it so I never had to worry about it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you aren't looking for anything specific, why look for anything but the cheapest?

Fitting a second slide really depends on the tolerances and how the new slide comes from the factory and how the original slide was fit. If the gunsmith has a dozen slides sitting around to try, the chances are that one of them will be a pretty good fit. If he has to order one, the odds are higher that some sacrifice will need to be made to make them both work. This could result in either or both slides becoming a little looser than what they would consider ideal though if the barrel is fit correctly, this won't result in much if any accuracy loss for the games we play. The open gun would need to be super lightened to not be able to handle major loads. I would say it's more common than not that anyone shooting open for a longer period of time will have a slide crack on them at some point. Replacement is usually pretty straight forward and slides can be peened. Worst case is the frame can be railed or welded. A picture of the open gun would help to know how aggressively it was lightened

My Cmore never shifted on me either. I switched to DPP but it wasn't because the sight didnt keep its zero. I agree the design and materials are interesting and think it's actually pretty impressive they are as good as they are considering their cost is likely about 7 bucks after the mold cost was recuperated. I think the set screw has a lot to do with how any individual sight maintains it's zero. If the set screw wants to settle in a different place than you last zeroed it, I think the recoil will allow it to clock back to its preferred place which takes it out of zero. Who knows,

My Cmore never shifted on me either. I switched to DPP but it wasn't because the sight didnt keep its zero. I agree the design and materials are interesting and think it's actually pretty impressive they are as good as they are considering their cost is likely about 7 bucks after the mold cost was recuperated. I think the set screw has a lot to do with how any individual sight maintains it's zero. If the set screw wants to settle in a different place than you last zeroed it, I think the recoil will allow it to clock back to its preferred place which takes it out of zero. Who knows,

Bumpfire? It's way cooler when you can do it on demand vs when it happens on a partial target with a no shoot on it. easiest way to make it happen more often is a weak grip/hosing, heavy reset, and or very little over travel.... Try fixing one or all of these and see if that changes the situation. or get a new gun, it may be a "this gun always shoots low left" kind of deal, sounds like you've isolated all the other variables with the gun.

The accuracy different could be related to trigger pull differences in the two guns potentially. If you were in tune with it, you'd see it when calling your shots but if your going for pure accuracy you may be turning that skill off to some degree. If nothing else you should definitely confirm the triggers are as close as possible to matching if you want to switch between guns without issue. Just an idea, could be a bunch of other things as well

Batteries are 20 cents each.....though they seem to never die. I don't turn it on or off, I just change them anytime I feel like it or its "been a while"

Batteries are 20 cents each.....though they seem to never die. I don't turn it on or off, I just change them anytime I feel like it or its "been a while"

I ended up tapping for the Screws that came with the DP. I had planned on using 5-40 but didn't like how the holes in the DP would have been oversized for the and the head didn't fit the chamfer as cleanly

New age marketing...hehe

I would like to see the lim as well, I couldn't find good pictures or where it's sold. I've never had a blast shield so I really don't know if it helps or not. With a shorty and no holes the oil on the lens is less than what I experienced with both the regular and setback 90 cmore mount. It wipes off easily and I don't get a lot of carbon so it hasn't been too big of a deal. I also like the way the jv mount looks and it seems to be a good design as well. The reality is you probably can't go wrong with any of them.