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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About drewbeck

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    Calls Shots

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    Denver CO
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    Shooting, Gundogs, Uplandsportsman.com
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    Andrew Reisbeck A85028

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  1. Ya, this is the set I have and the what this thread is about. I was asking about the Cabelas Media Separator that BiteTheBullet had referenced and was wondering if there is another option for sorting or if he was purely talking about separating media in his post.
  2. Does this actually sort case type or are you just talking about separating the media? If it’s a shorter, please share link
  3. They’re the best affordable option for brass sorting and they work well. I try to only sort brass one painful weekend per year and I take the bowl off a big vibe tumbler and mount a 5 gal bucket to it and it’ll sort 30 gallons of brass pretty quick and easy but it’s dusty and requires respirator.
  4. A u die will undersize the case diameter which will create greater neck tension below the bell and crimp. It’ll basically ensure the rounds feed and you don’t have setback because the case is narrower below the bell/seated bullet. Like i I said it’s a must for 9mm in my opinion regardless of brass or roll sizing. Roll sizing removes bulges but primarily fixes the case rim which is the area that gets most screwed up from firing and the extractor/ejector.
  5. Interesting. I’d imagine that the Alu will work harden quick and crack on the next loading or so.? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. Weight...reloading...weight....reliability...weight...reloading. you need enough mags to feel comfortable should you drop one or even two during a stage, and still complete it. Generally reloads at easier and more consistent and faster with a 140 or 150. And if you want an extra mag to finish 2-5 rounds on a stage you don’t want to reload a 30 round mag to do it. theres no issue doing it if your capable but it’s easier to be more consistent reloading with a shorter, lighter mag. Theres generally just no reason to do it so why carry, clean, load, and reload a bigger mag than is necessary.
  7. Sort a few thousand rounds by hand and by headstamp and it’ll become clear that Blazer, PMC, FC, RP, Speer, and Win stamps feel significantly better quality than anything else (of major brands, star, hornady , etc are good but seldom) basically any NATO provider headstamp is solid not that you want their crimped stuff
  8. Sorry off topic but I’ve been considering major pistol a try but don’t want to go to 124’s, can you compress this load very well or what’s the min oal you could get with 115 would you guess?
  9. Wera also makes some awesome screwdriver multitips that are good for shop or range bags
  10. Lee undersized sizing die, you need one regardless of brass type unless it’s roll sized, even then it’s worth owning. blazer is good brass as long as its brass and not aluminum
  11. And while harbor freight stuff is generally considered cheap Chinese junk by most, I think there is a place and reason to own nearly all of their hand tools. I think a person is better off having the correct tool for the job even if that tool is of lesser quality than the “best” brand. Ie id rather have every size ball pein, brass, rubber, plastic head, and dead blow hammers from HF than I would have one “best” brand hammer . however there’s no quality “cheap” stones available for trigger jobs for example. Cheap abrasives are nearly always inferior to more to more expensive ones. The ability to hold your work will directly impact the final quality of your work (ie vises) An appropriate set of hand files will be better, safer, and faster than a rotary tool. Cheap (softer) punches are good to have so they fail and bend before you accidentally stake a stuck pin or something. Good punches are needed to be able to actually stake something. and little known fact, harbor freight hand tool are actually guaranteed for life if you want to go to the effort of bringing it back to the store. I’ve also never had a good experience with Grace gunsmith tools. Their screwdrivers are brittle junk and their punches are soft. Just my opinion from my experiences on the above
  12. It totally depends on what specific tool you are looking for as to which is the best brand today. its kind of like what’s the best gun or vehicle question. Gotta know “best for what”. I like getting a lot of hand tools on eBay from machinist chest type auction clean outs because lots of good stuff can be had for little money
  13. Are you building it or a GS? If a GS, let him decide on the small parts if he has a preference unless you know for certain you have a specific preference on something. If hes a builder of open guns he’ll know what he prefers and why, if he doesn’t build many then yes, there are going to be a lot of opinions...
  14. After you spend a bunch more time with the dot you’ll start to notice that the loads you tried probably have very different dot movements but until then, shoot a bunch and don’t worry too much about it
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