drewbeck

As long as the width isn’t wider that the trigger guard/grip is, or can’t slide to either side and be wider than the grip (causes holster issues usually depending on holster) locktight and leave them that width. Theyre supposed to act as more of a pun vs a screw you tighten to lock in place. If You trim them to enough to actually be in tension (like a normal screw) they will almost always work loose and vibrate out. The sleeve is supposed to act as the pin, and the two screws on L and R are just there to keep the sleeve from working it’s way out of it’s Home. snig the screws up tigh to the sleeve bi Tony work about the entire assembly being “tight” AI gains the the grip

All kidding aside, the way the case split is either of the above reasons already pointed out or it could have also been a major glock bulge in the brass before it was resized which created a weak circumference on the case prior to you shooting it. Regardless of it having a prior bulge or not, a KB (kaboom not bang) doesn’t really happen without a mega overcharge or mega under charge. People also talk about squibs but rarely do you hear about under charges vs over charges. Depending on the powder, being under the min charge may result in the powder detonating vs burning like it’s supposed to do. Whatever the cause, you had an ammo issue, not a gun failure, and you got lucky. I keep MY bulged glock barrel on my bench, near my press to remind me of the risks in not paying attention. I also thing glocks get a majorly bad rap on the bulge or kB issue due to the majority of new reloaders that just happen to be learning to reload and happen to be shooting a glock as their reloading test mule. Glad you didn’t get injured in the ordeal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh and it’s most definitely Gaston’s fault [emoji857] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Who cares the reason, give thanks to sweet baby Jesus for that one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not a 3 gun person so I don’t have a ton of experience regolstering on the clock (if that’s required) but from my experience with the magnetic blocks is that it’s super easy to hit the holster with the trigger guard, and once that happens your middle finger can lock it solid without changing or moving your grip on the gun. You’ll know whether it’s good to go or not the instant it hits vs the unsure feeling of whether it’s locked on the 014. I wouldn’t say it’s as easy as getting the muzzle into a kydex and then dropping the gun “Home” but I wouldn’t do that anyway. I would rather run with a gun locked in a double alpha magnetic block than in a kydex holster without actual means of locking retention. the magnetic block in the alpha x vs the racemaster is the same, the difference is in ease of adjustability and orientation of the gun with said piece of aluminum housing for the magnetic block. As as far as drawing from the locked position, if I know it’s locked it probably costs me .05 sec from a scoop draw but is the same time if I’m ensuring a solid grip on the gun. I oroginally was worried about it being secure but have zero concern with it now and you just automatically check the lock anytime you touch the gun while it’s holstered

Personally a racemaster/alpha x magnetic block is more secure than safari land or kydex for me when locked. but more importantly that’s a sweet blaster, haven’t seen many of those

Ya i butler cut it to blend the transition. Look at atlas guns for a bigger comp

If you don’t flare the case enough you’ll have Blue lead particles and likely crap accurate rounds filling up the bin instead.... it’s a balance, try to minimize the the brass shavings by adjusting the dies but don’t let it worry you so much you under bell/flare or crimp. Ie it’s normal just pay attention to brass vs lead and how much if any is showing up. dpending in your load you’ll also have a few to bunch of powder flakes in there. This is due to throw and how the press “self cleans” learn what’s normal sand you’ll quickly know when there’s an issue with the powder or press

I used a sieg x2 clone from harbor freight for all the above including the gun. my “new” machines were made in the 40’s and I rebuilt and restored them, a Logan Lathe and Index Mill

Agree, if a 9mm and 38 are built identically either is just as likely to break parts from the forces involved. I have never seen or heard of a 9mm 2011 based open barrel blowing up which is the “real” risk of choosing to go with 9mm over .38 the slide for example has no idea whether a 9 or 38 just slammed it into the frame for the 10 thousandth time, and whenever it’s ready to give up the fight it’s gonna break without bias to the size of brass it just spit out. I also see the SVI doesn’t build a 9mm argument get thrown on the table as the ultimate trump card by people that say there is something wrong with 9 major if sv won’t even build one. In my opinion I’d guess the real reason they don’t make them is they don’t want to deal with 9mm mags, feeding, or customers having issues due to their own crappy reloads. .38 is an easier round to load than 9mm just like .40 is easier than 9mm to do consistently, this doesn’t mean 9mm is hard it just requires more attention/quality control to ensure reliable ammo when it matters. the gun really isn’t part of the equation in the 9mm/38 debate, it’s really a decision on whether you want to run 9mm brass closer to its limits than you are doing with a larger case capacity. I buy Buy once fired, roll sized, cleaned, deprimed, sorted 9mm brass for $50/k because it’s more consistent than me sizing range pickup brass. I have no issue shooting range pickup and shoot a lot of it many times. Roll sized is more consistent on the rim and dings on range pickup can cause feeding issues more easily for me. I pickup all brass and can get $18 of the $50 per thousand back just taking it to the scrap yard. Makes it pretty cheap to have new quality processed brass

If you can do it, let’s see your pics. These were done on my mini mill before I got a larger hobby mill Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just happened to have a safari land 014 holster and stole the ball. I didn’t want to deal with turning a ball on the Lathe either so I looked around for a good alternate and found that a compressed air hose “swivel” joint or ball joint fitting would work great, just take it apart. The more heavy duty the better, tractor supply had some nicer ones than Home Depot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is my limited setup prior to finishing/coating. It’s A kydex holster but I made a single piece solid hanger that I hogged out of a single scrap of billet aluminum, I didn’t have a mill at the time but I learned an aweful lot about how to work alu with files/rasps that’s for sure. Again it’s bolted directly to belt with T nuts on inside. (Edit, I take back not having a mill at the time but looking at the pic I realize I had one because that was the first gun I made. The geometry and contours just made hand tools easier on the holster)

I wanted to try the race master magnetic block and the new x whatever holster wasn’t shipping yet so I just bought the insert block and came up with this to test it as a prototype. It worked fine so I haven’t gotten around to making a cleaner looking one yet. I found that once mag and pouches are pretty much settled, I never move them. So I have now just put T nuts on the inside, drill small hole and bolt everything directly to my belt. Makes Velcro connection to inner belt better and no brackets to break. i think using the proven block on your own designed rig will get you best of both worlds.

Cost is gun, backup gun, and things have a tendency to break quicker so replacement parts will be added cost compared to a production setup typically would encounter. Mags are more expensive but that's really about it. I can load lead open ammo for less than production if using AC vs Vit powder if I wanted to make that argument. Same with lead vs jacketed, jacketed ammo costs about $20/1,000 for me to load more than lead does. You'll probably shoot a lighter bullet in open than in production so that is actually cheaper from that standpoint. It's the initial outlay and deciding to shoot .38 that make it more expensive than other divisions to actually shoot.

I don’t have experience with Nowlin barrels but the Barstow I’ve done have required either bumping back the vis or trimming the radius on the foot of the barrel than a kkm. I don’t know i mid there’s a difference on a bushing barrel but they’re different to me

And it’s good to never walk around “half cocked” don’t act “half cocked” and basically it’s never good to be half cocked... Nothing to do with you, the world would just be better with less half cocked people in it. my first thought was to say to double check your tools but you said you measured back to back with the larger and batch and got the same result consistently, I don’t know how to explain that other than knowing all calipers suck, good calipers are better than cheap ones but a micrometer or clean gauge is really the more accurate way to measure anything. I definitely don’t claim to be a machinist or expert but I was shocked how much most metals change in size and shape due to temp, gravity, thickness, etc once I had better tools to actually measure the difference. A caliper is a rough estimate regardless of it was made in China, Switzerland, or USA, it relies on user consistency and a constant environment. And few of us have or are capable of either. The last thing is, everyone that shoots plated Bullets will say coated lead doesn’t work. Anyone that says plated sucks is most likely a jacketed bullet shooter, and anyone that says any of the three is the only thing that works has tried them all for themselves in their gun with multiple powders. Good job job for double checking your measuring devices, most don’t

Did you see the bullet/hole in the target or did you see the sights as the muzzle started to lift, and not when you started to pull the trigger? you don’t need a target for follow through, most people look for the bullet hole to tell them where they shot went, which is slow. Instead let the sights tell you where the bullet is going to go so you don’t have to wait for a hole the target to move on. just my opinion on what it means to me, which is the same as shot calling

Really?? Why, they apparently shoot well, are you one of the people that look at your Montana’s in the mirror? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d say what I’d do depends on how well they shoot first, and how many I bought secondly. If I got a couple thousand and they shot ok I wouldn’t hesitate to shoot them but I’d also contact them and discuss the issue. If I bought 40k of them and they were any less accurate I’d make an issue and get them replaced. Accuracy and a significant change in leading would be the only thing I’d be worried about. It doesn’t matter what they look like as long as they go where their aimed in my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d say what I’d do depends on how well they shoot first, and how many I bought secondly. If I got a couple thousand and they shot ok I wouldn’t hesitate to shoot them but I’d also contact them and discuss the issue. If I bought 40k of them and they were any less accurate I’d make an issue and get them replaced. Accuracy and a significant change in leading would be the only thing I’d be worried about. It doesn’t matter what they look like as long as they go where their aimed in my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Only one way to find out, load them and shoot em. exposed lead could lead to increase in leading but at revolver velocities I wouldn’t be worried about it in the lube groove. Exposed base in open may be an issue. shoot some and see, undersized is better than the potential risk of oversized but they’re lead so probably not a big deal and even if they’re oversized you likely are swaying them anyway if you didn’t adjust your crimp setting. pull a bullet from the bigger ones and see what it measures after it’s been loaded, you may find you are making them similar sizes inadvertently.

Ya or test against another gauge at the same time with same gun and compare. Also make sure you aren’t getting trigger bounce/hitting over travel stop and throwing it off. You also need to ensure the gun doesn’t move while testing. If it moves at all near the break you’ll be offsetting the weight and the reading will be lighter than reality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk