drewbeck

I was referring to a 1911 standard width which is .750-.760 depending on manufacturer. Which in that case you would need to be custom width/wider frame (ie one off) to have a picatinny rail that measured .830" in width. My gun pictured above is a wide PT frame with rail. I haven't measured the rail width on it to see if it's wider than the standard .830" rail, but my light fits so it doesn't matter much

I basically own/prefer two types of pistols. Sti/svi based 2011’s and glocks. I carry a g43/g19 because they are much easier to deal with the weight/bulk than a 2011 regardless of whether it’s a 4.”barrel or not. if I open carried, I would trust either confidently. ive had glocks that have failures to feed/fire/etc. i think the biggest disconnect between the internet dwellers/tac community/ and competition shooters is the definition of “gun running”. Failures aren’t more inherent to either design but most glock shooters aren’t pushing the design to the ragged edge of performance/vs reliability. a good example of this is in drag racing. The elite classes of dragsters rebuild a motor after every run. If the motor was a Chevy block 454, (wouldn’t be in reality) this same group of people would spin this to say, “don’t get a big bock 454 is a unreliable motor that has to be rebuilt every time it’s driven”, “get a Honda Accord, the only thing I’ve done is changed the oil on mine, and I’ve been getting 32 MPG on average” my point is this, yes my accord had zero issues over 100k miles, and yes I’ll probably buy one for my daughters when they learn to drive so I don’t have to deal with fixing their cars for them, but if I get to decide what the next vehicle is that’s going in my garage, I’m going to pick the one with the 454 in it acknowledging I may have to fiddle with the carburetor if I want to squeeze that last 30hp out of it. Glocks are reliable, and 2011’s are fun. A 2011 can be as reliable as a glock, but a glock will never have the “fun” potential that a 2011 has. These days Shooting my glocks is really just a chore I “have” to do, but when that’s completed, I pull out my 2011’ so I can actually have some fun at the range.

No, think about the frame design, the optic mount fits the frame without a rail, the rail is added material below the “traditional” 1911 frame dimensions, so why would they interfere. The bigger issue is whether the optic mount was made for a 1911 width or a “wide body” width. Though I doubt that somebody makes a standard width 1911 frame and then balloons the rail dimension to fit a mil spec width. Unless the frame is literally a one off, a frame with a rail will always be a wide body frame, aka same width as the slide. (Anybody tell me if this is inaccurate) so no clearance issue. a reliable holster as well as the very limited need, is the reason this is a “who cares” issue. However, if you are the kind of guy that wants/needs an open gun for his nightstand blaster with an optic, it’ll work fine but you’re better off with a suppressor and no comp. anyone in the room not getting shot will thank you a lot!

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Ya his guns aren’t cheap and a top end is nearly all of the work, put another way, once that work is done all that should be left is fitting a safety, grip safety and a few minutes on the trigger parts. Less parts cost of frame $2-250, ignition parts about $200, magwell and mainspring housing $100-140, and grip $160-600 depending on plastic or steel. check out the prices for a full gun from him and it seems very logical. Whether it’s reasonable or not is a personal choice

For sure, I’ll do it later tonight Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess that's my point, these type of matches are so rare I doubt there are many (if any) people out there that have an open gun and holster rig configured this way. Reasons, 1) very few open guns have rails to mount a light 2) most people generally use a race holster for an open gun, and most race holsters index or mount the gun off the bottom of the frame and face of the trigger guard which wouldn't allow for a light to be mounted I'll be curious whether you get any response from someone who has actually tried to do this. I'm one of the small number of people that have a tactical framed with rail open gun and in a pitch black match scenario, I'd put a headlamp on my belt to illuminate the path and targets before I'd ever consider mounting a light to my gun. I bet you'd find a lot more weapon mounted lights in carry optics guns because they are typically designed to be carried with this option.

It’s actually very relevant. Unless it’s pitch black out and you need a light to even see the target whatsoever, a weapon light would be detrimental and pointless to performance Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you talking about evening matches “lower light” or matches shot in the dark?

I have one of his open guns. If I was going to summarize his general approach to gunsmithing, I'd say his primary focus is on building guns that run. He likes to use certain parts because he knows they will work and last based on how he builds the gun. If you want a gun that you can be confident that it will run he is a great gunsmith. If however you want the gun to be a flashy showpiece with funky milling details with 20 poppel holes in a supercharged V12 pattern, he is probably not your guy. Sure, he could probably do it but he doesn't like purely adding form that doesn't increase function.

If you load them to 21, the springs will fail faster than 20 rounds. You are already doing what I was suggesting by only loading 20 if you can indeed get 21 into them. Sometimes it makes a lot of sense to load to 21 for specific stage but general, cramming that last round in brings a lot of risk for various potential issues/failures to occur, such as increased slide pressure/friction that could lead to failures to feed. If you “need” that last bullet you probably would have been much better off throwing another reload into your plan. Just saying loading to absolute max will increase the probability of failure to many different things, as well as quickly smoke your springs. Sure, do it when it’s needed but no reason to do it as a matter of standard practice just because you can. Same reason you don’t only shift gears when your car is at redline, sure you can but it’s not a great practice for every trip to the store Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why?, purely out of curiosity. If its a cost issue, you’re within dollars on any choice. Typically people think the mags are expensive but regardless of the mag the spring is the weakest link. If a person loads a mag to max capacity, regardless of the tube manufacturer, the spring I’d DONE in a matter of weeks or maybe months. If you never load to max and keep the spring a round or so below max, it may last years. If the tube works and feeds, the first sign of failure will be the spring. If a new spring doesn’t fix it, it’ll be the follower or the tube generally. bottom line, don’t be afraid to chuck crap after the first failure, unless it consistently fails on the first or last round, then it’s typically a lip issue which can potentially be fixed.

I think I have 12 mbx and they all run without issues, why bother figuring out your own solution just get what works unless the other solution is free

Ya almost any of them are .050

And this has zero bearing on whether your friend is Max M, or a D, C, B, A, M or GM class shooter, his ammo may run fine in his few guns, but you’re worried about you’re gun having quality issues when it was built by someone with hundreds or thousands of guns to their name without these issues... i have no tie to your builder I’m just befuddled why people don’t look in the mirror before they say it’s broken

Who built his gun? No offense, but please learn from this dude, calling out your smith on quality issues on a gun that you qc’d someone else’s ammo for them is a f’n joke. Im not a a paid gunsmith but have an idea of the brain damage people like you cause them inadvertently with a post like this on a public forum.. its like you asking your plumber why the toilet won’t flush but you Haven’t tried the handle.... youre messing people’s livelihood and income whether you are smart enough to realize it or not

Do you case gauge all of your ammo? Are you 1000% sure your crimp is enough to pass a Saami gauge on diameter and taper of the case? Not the length of the case nor the oal of the round, but if your taper and crimp aren’t under the spec, you can have him throat ream it until the reamer’s in the comp and your ammo still won’t fit. been there done that and over reamed a chamber because I didn’t confirm/ triple check this. If your ammo gauges and you still have an issue then it could be the chamber, 90% of the time it’s gonna be your ammo though so I’d rule any possibility of that out before you do anything like throating or reaming the barrel. Just because it runs in another gun doesn’t make your ammo correct. Sure he can make your ammo run by reaming but you’ll alway have to load oversized or limited crimp to maintain the accuracy after that’s done. just do yourself a favor and use someone else “Long” ammo first and see what happens, as well as gauge your own

I run 115’s with AC at 1.125” and 124’s with AC at 1.135” and have chrono’d 175+ at majors without pressure issues. i have spacers in mbx mags as well as run mbx without spacers and have no issues. I typically load zeros or coated lead and find coated to feed more reliably and smoother than jacketed but give up .25”-.50” roughly in group sizes at 25 yards which is insignificant to me in this game. try shorter and see pay attention to what happens. If there’s issues change it, if not don’t be afraid to go with it.

When you get into really Reston the gun, you should try multiple firing pin stop radius, with multiple different main spring weights in conjunction with the different recoil springs. between the three you can make the gun almost run anyway you want. The hardest part is figuring out what’s the best combo

There’s no question the points down cost a lot on THAT stage and THAT match, but I doubt the skill isn’t in place to go from 16A to 95% of points available if that was the immediate focus. slowing down a couple tenths will likely yield good points but hf won’t be huge difference. The biggest improvement will come from moving faster and more efficiently and then taking then 10ths to ensure what it takes to get good hits. I don’t care what his class is or what a “c” class should or shouldn’t be, I’m only giving an opinion on what I see

The biggest things I see are hesitation which stems from stage planning/mental burn in, this cascades into thinking through the stage which slows every movement. I’d say your shooting/transition skills far exceed you movement and execution skills between the shooting. And the your points with 3d’s and 9C’s could/should be worked on after movement. youre at the point where getting better at shooting probably needs to focus less on the actual shooting part of the game

I don’t think this is an accurate statement at all. How would being to Long cause over pressure? It would cause feed failures for sure if the recoil spring coulda overcome the pressure needed to close the slide but that’s a different deal. honest question, I could be wrong in the above experience

It’s convenient for reassembly but irrelevant to function or performance of the gun