drewbeck

I would like to see the lim as well, I couldn't find good pictures or where it's sold. I've never had a blast shield so I really don't know if it helps or not. With a shorty and no holes the oil on the lens is less than what I experienced with both the regular and setback 90 cmore mount. It wipes off easily and I don't get a lot of carbon so it hasn't been too big of a deal. I also like the way the jv mount looks and it seems to be a good design as well. The reality is you probably can't go wrong with any of them.

It seems to be the lowest mounting option by far from what I could tell without actually having all the options to test. I don't think it would clear a slide that hasn't at least been flat topped. I also had to shave a little off my cheely racker to allow it to clear the mount when removing the slide. You could always just remove the racker but I didn't want to have to do that anytime I wanted to pull the slide for whatever reason. It was interfering by probably only .050" so it was only a couple strokes with the file.

I switched over to the DPP from a 90 cmore last week. I've always disliked the vision blocking associated with the 90 but hated how high the upright cmore mount was and didn't want to have to make that big of an adjustment from irons. I would say that for anyone dealing with the same conundrum, the DPP and arrendondo mount is by far the best solution. There was very little adjustment period switching from the 90 mount. The dot is a little higher but it's not enough that it matters to your eyes and the dot just appears as it normally would. If your on the fence about switching from a 90 mount I'd say go for it, you won't have an issue

Seems like a pretty awesome sight

I've been also very interested in this sight, if possible could you take a pic of it from behind to see the glass view and base thickness. Not a lot of pictures of this sight yet.

I wouldn't be too worried about the app, I've found it to be more work than it's worth and it's easy enough to just write down whatever you want to document. The important part is that you actually keep a notebook and consistently write stuff down if you want to have history to look back on.

The neodymium / rare earth magnets are nothing like the black hardware store magnets. The holding power is no joke and they can be dangerous for kids or if someone doesn't know how powerful they are. I ordered a pair of 1/2" ones and when opening the package I had one in each hand and not thinking I went to "test" them together. At about 3" apart it sucked my hands together pinching a finger and split the skin wide open. I now hang my belt in the shop to a cast iron pipe for storage!

I have a rearward mount I'd sell you if you're interested. I too found, I prefer the forward much more. Partly dot tracking, partly better draw from not having to avoid hitting my thumb on it.

Firing pin stop angle and mainspring weight also play a huge role in the "noise" factor. I also agree that unless they're identical there will be an adjustment period between the two. So then if they're not identical, regardless of how big the difference is between the two you'll notice it and think about it. I've never asked but I'd venture to guess that even though cha's guns are "identical" and built with the same parts, paint, trigger, and by the same person he would be able to tell which one was which without looking based on how they felt last. Whether it's slide wear, chips in the coating, whatever, it doesn't matter because he's proven to his mind they're going to shoot exactly the same and the one in his hand at that moment is his primary gun. If someone really doesn't want to have a mid match mental grenade go off when having to switch to a "backup" gun, you can't have a primary and a backup but instead it's gotta be a rotation. I think it's a lot like shoes, I have 3 pair of identical shoes that I randomly rotate while shooting. (Good Deal, I'm not overly concerned with backup footwear) But my point is someone could hand me any one of the pairs at the LAMR and it would have zero effect on my mind. On the other hand is someone handed me MY cleats that I've previously worn for years, it's gonna take more than a few minutes to quit thinking about it and I'd much prefer a couple laps before that buzzer goes off. At the end of the day it comes down to how important the lack of any match stumbles is to you and how much you wanna spend to avoid it. Panda has a trio, which is cheap insurance relative to his schedule and travel risk. I carry a fitted backup for every part except the grip, barrel, frame, magwell and slide, and the tools to fix it in minutes which allows me to always shoot the same gun but if it's catastrophic I'll be shooting open with whatever glock is in my truck at the time to finish the match. It's all relative to your level of participation

From that angle and with the sound muted at work, it kind of looks like you're shooting an airsoft gun.....Ya, it's gotta be the ammo

Endless opportunities to try

The hammer spring affects two different aspects of the recoil process. The first thing that it affects is the slide velocity coming back. The heaver the spring the more velocity is taken out of the slides rearward movement. This part works in conjunction with the recoil spring to determine how hard the slide slams into the frame in the rear most position. The harder the slide slams into the frame the more dramatic the overall muzzle flip will be. The second thing that the hammer spring weight affects is the resistance to the initial unlocking of the gun. I don't know the exact scientific term for this but I like to call it muzzle "Tip Up" right as the shot is fired and before the slide starts to move back. The heaver the hammer spring the more effort it takes to cock the hammer back and the more muzzle "Tip Up" happens. The changing the angle of the firing pin stop also produces the same affect as changing hammer spring weights but to me it has a more pronounced affect to the "Tip Up" event. The angle of the firing pin stop determines the leverage the slide has against the lever arm of the hammer. The more leverage the firing pin block has against the hammer the easier it is to cock it back, so it acts like the hammer is a lighter spring. Since you can create a bunch of different types of firing pin block angles along with using different hammer spring weight combinations the tuning options between these two parts is pretty extensive. The engineering terms for forces applied during the "tip up" are shear and moment. From an engineering standpoint the mainspring is responsible for the allowable moment force of the hammer and when it reaches "failure" which moves it back and cocks the gun. On recoil, the Firing pin stop is applying and increasing level of shear force on the hammer up until the amount of this force becomes greater than the amount of moment load the spring is able to support with the mechanical design (approximately 18lbs in this case). By adjusting the radius of the firing pin stop you effectively change the fulcrum of the slide/hammer interface which gives the slide more mechanical advantage to overcome the spring force of the hammer/mainspring. This reduces the felt weight of the 18lb spring. If you think of the slide like a skateboard rolling down the sidewalk. With tiny wheels (small radius), a 2 inch curb (18lb spring) is going to be really jarring when you hit it, the nose will want to dig into it and the back wheels will want to come off the ground and throw you forward off of the skateboard, this will also slow you down dramatically. Likewise with big wheels (bigger radius) you hit a 3 inch curb (19lb spring) even though its higher you would roll right up and over this without noticing it very much, but your speed would also not be reduced hardly at all which would be nice and smooth. Now if there is a wall several feet past this curb, the small wheels would have slowed you down substantially and you wouldn’t hit it very hard at all. With the bigger wheels, you’re going to hit the wall with a full head of steam as it’s going to stop you abruptly. Playing with the FPS and springs weights is like trying different wheels sizes and curb heights to balance the relationship of how much you initially get jarred hard hitting the curb, how much it slows you down, to balance how hard you ultimately hit the wall. (BTW this is simplified explanation, so no need for any engineer types to get all engineery on me and correct it!)

It's definitely a weird and frustrating thing and no offense taken. What's been pretty eye opening to me is that I literally have had zero ammo issues since switching to open and if anything have been much more diligent in paying attention while loading. Even weirder is that when loading up a big batch and then simply randomly splitting into two bags, Panda will have consistent issues with his batch whereas I won't have any issues. The odds of me randomly selecting "the good" and getting him all the bad just seem unrealistic so I think there are a lot more gun and actual shooter variables that can play into how ammo runs than I had previously thought. The biggest variable that I can identify is his grip strength and when reviewing the failures he's had, they mostly relate to the ammo "breaking apart". I'm thinking that his strength is a contributing factor and is actually inducing a lot of different forces than I am during recoil and it is literally shaking apart the ammo while shooting. We are also running on the ragged edge of testing light plated bullets with very little bullet surface area to get neck tension and then trying to balance the "crimp vs swaging" equation while maintaining some type of consistent level of accuracy all of which is not an easy challenge or thing to overcome. The person loading is also a huge variable and the biggest one that I think should be eliminated as well. For the sake of the experiment and what we are really trying to figure out and prove which is; can 115gr plated bullets be pushed at major velocities while being reliable and reasonably accurate? I hope the person doing the loading is what's causing the failures vs it being a component issue so to isolate that variable the Panda will be getting a loaner press for christmas to do his own testing. Nothing about the situation is really ideal from a testing or load development standpoint but I think it's closer to being reliable than it feels but who knows and all you can do is keep eliminating variables. Another cheaper solution though not a great one for the volume you shoot is the Dillon square deal and you could sell it for almost what you paid for it when you decide what your next real press will be and you have a suitcase of cash laying around?

The books are also widely available in free PDF if you search them. Not sure on the legality which is why I'm not posting them myself. Also if you want a good gun to learn on pick up a kit from Sarco. It won't be a competition gun but can end up a decent shooter and you'll learn lots about fitting. You can upgrade parts whenever and continue to learn on a cheap beginning investment

How /where are these breaking? Are the guns locking back on an empty mag. These aren't wear parts and don't need to be proactively replaced. The actual portion that engages and locks the slide back is the only area on them that I could see breaking. If the pin is breaking there are major issues inside the gun as it shouldn't be subject to that kind of force

The AGI videos are good as well as watching all the vids on YouTube and jerrys books. It really depends on what you want to do. If it's just cleaning up or replacing a trigger system or replacing a barrel there is a big difference between improving something and fixing something that isn't working correctly. Diagnosing an issue without knowing how the gun parts interact would be a recipe for a lot of replaced parts. I am not a gunsmith but built the below from scratch and while it's far from perfect it is tight, accurate, and runs. If you really want to understand how it all works, start building on from scratch. When I was able to do that I then was able to know what to ask a real gunsmith and was able to understand what they were saying. A 1911/2011 is a system and without an understanding of how it all works together you'd be missing out. If say just jump in with the understanding you'll screw some stuff up as a cost of learning. It's a fun hobby in itself.

I have a pt aggressive on an STI frame, it was very aggressive (which I liked) but whittled it down to all own for slight grip adjustments. I built a pt framed gun and it would have needed fitting to get it to go on. I then got a smooth PT grip that fit the PT frame perfect. Then had an open CK frame gun built that both grips fit very snug and perfectly. I like the PT aggressive once dehorned a bit but like the smooth for its versatility in different textures with various tapes. The next one I get will probably be SV purely because I don't have one yet. I haven't held a CK but would assume the quality is similar. At the end of the day no one can tell you what will feel best for you, so pick the one you like best and you mind will compensate. Otherwise buy all of them and figure out which one actually performs best for YOU. The biggest benefit for me is the mass of steel vs the plastic over any actual ergonomics of the specific grip.

We were already screwed, now we're just really screwed.

Just pick up some .040 brass music wire from the hobby shop. Cutting it will enlarge one side and leaving it slightly long out the front and bending will keep it in and allow you to yank it out after. I know you hate the adjustable sights but I went to a Novak adjustable and you can get it way lower than the battle sight variants.

Is cutting the dovetail an issue with HC? I thought it was based on what I had been told? So one other question for the people that commented above. Can you really not blast off HC? What does blasting do, does it just texture it but leave the HC on? And lastly don't you want/need to blast before you put on ceracoate? I had apparently been wrong in the above post so if like to get a better understanding

You can but the HC is going to ruin the tooling so a gunsmith will likely want to blast the HC off first or have you pay for the tooling that gets trashed in the process. You will also have raw steel where cut so that will want to be finished but there aren't many options to patch the new cuts. Sooo... If you want to do this you'll likely just end up blasting the whole slide to remove the HC, have it lightened and the refinish with whatever you want. I had the same thing and ended up blasting and refinishing with ceracoate

The lips could change literally .001 and the mag would go from reliable to failing to feed every last round. You just need to get them back under the threshold of where they become "too wide" and all will be good again

You likely just need to close the feed lips a little bit. Basically the follower is putting slightly different pressure on the last round than a round would be putting on it if there was one below it and it's angling up more as it comes off the mag and hits the upper right side of the barrel. The MDX mags are solid and usually run excellent but metal will deflect when there is pressure, they get dropped, etc and this is something that everyone should learn to diagnose and fix if they want their mags to run reliably. It's nothing to worry about, it's just a maintenance item.

Graphite is probably gonna get everything really dirty and messy, I think you'd like climbing chalk, talc, gold bond, etc a lot better and it would be cleaner. If you want the cheapest and best moisture mitigator pick up a bag of portland cement or plaster powder, they'll suck the moisture out of anything.

They are fairly rough on the sides so you can also get some good file work practice flattening them before you work on serrations