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drewbeck

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Everything posted by drewbeck

  1. And a set of pin gauges will tell you how far off it is. .001 in depth is significant for a tiny screw diameter
  2. It’s not the width of the recess or the grip width that’s the issue, there’s usually a bulge in one or both that requires flat stoning to really see
  3. Did you whack the frame with a rubber mallet several times to see other contact? my experience and guess is the ridge in the frame and/or grip above the trigger guard and above the screw isn’t allowing the front to seat. It’s usually sand blasted on both halves and almost impossible to fin with Dykem unless you try to seat it good with a plastic mallet.. if thats not the issue, then you just need to alignment ream the front screw. There are varying opinions on how important that screw is to begin with but I prefer to use it
  4. Yup, just like the dragster hasnt been replaced by the electric version... theres a reason people like both but just because you can drive it on the road doesn’t mean it’ll ever be faster... just because you push the limits of one vehicle doesnt mean it’ll replace a more specialized version of one.
  5. Yup, but you had a parts kit and a backup gun. My parts kit is literally a second fitted gun without a frame, slide or barrel. It even has a spare comp for my primary gun. I also have a backup gun but it’s not identical so I’d prefer to replace something broken if need be, but I’ve ran all the fitted parts to be confident. To the OP, if you move to open, you’ll be better locally immediately, but you’ll need to actually be 6-9% better immediately to just be the same level of shooter in open. Open div, in my opinion is the most fun, but also the most difficult to be competitive next to the big boys .Ya open is faster, but the fast guys in open are WTF fast. And there is no shortcut to being that.
  6. It’s good til it isn’t.... if stored properly and not exposed to much moisture it’s pretty much almost lasts forever.
  7. You’ll get the feeling of when they seat well and when you need to do a slight double pump of the handle to ensure that specific primer is seated. And quite honestly I do a quick double push on almost all rounds to ensure they’re seated well. I’ve also found CCI’s are slightly shorter and will generally look especially deep when seated correctly. Just my experience
  8. High primers... the variation and difference between the two guns is likely due to different firing pin lengths and or chamber lengths but either way if they go bang on the second firing it’s because they weren’t seated deep enough on the first. A true dud won’t fire no matter how many times it’s struck
  9. Have you had anyone else that is a quality shooter, and able to call their shots, shoot the gun? Before you go to crazy on the self diagnosis, you need to make sure the sights are actually not the issue. Also, how are you aligning them? post top, flat with rear, etc? At 10 yards, that looks very much like the sights are off and less like a trigger pull problem to me. You have some vertical stringing which could also be a barrell/lockup issue with the gun, but having another good shooter shoot the gun would confirm it's either a "you" issue or a gun issue. You should never assume that sights from the factory are going to be sighted in or even correct for that matter. You always need to confirm that the sights are "on" and if you aren't confident that you're able to do that, have someone else shoot it to see if the impact area is in the same spot. Low shots like that are more of a "few here and there" rather than a consistent every shot pattern. Ie a few low shots would signal your flinching, anticipating, breaking wrists, etc but to be doing that on every single shot, is much more likely to be a sights or aiming issue with those sights.
  10. Zero, precision delta, or hornady. I’m a 115gr guy so couldn’t say for certain but I’d guess Roze distribution is who should google if you want some. Or precision delta.... hornady is way to proud of their Bullets if you shoot many at all.
  11. I’d bet that was an out of battery firing or an unsupported case from a barrel that was polished or worked more than typical for that specific gun. easiest way to test out of battery firing condition is to (while empty) push barrel/slide against a wall and see if you can make the trigger click. The other way is to pull slide back and stick a cigarette but between the barrel and breech face and see if you can get it to click. if either way allows the gun to “fire” / click etc, your trigger timing is way off and you need to have it fixed immediately by someone that knows what they’re doing ( you or a GS). If it wont cycle out of battery, have a GS gauge the barrel and tell you how unsupported it is. thats not a stepped case failure, and if you had a true double charge of titegroup, you wouldn’t be questioning yourself whether it was a double charge with that little of damage to you or the gun. 8gr of titegroup in 9mm behind a 124gr pill is a recipe for a spectacular event. Much like an M80!
  12. drewbeck

    keyholing

    It’s not bullet problem, but more of a reloader issue. Measure, test, and repeat until you figure out the issue. ”you haven’t changed anything in years” except for the projectile, which changes everything... be patient and test things, everyone here is guessing based on experience.
  13. #1 Run a Lee Undersized sizing die #2 powder #3 Bullet feed or empty to see pow #4 Lee seat die #5 Lee factory crimp Do this and life will be good
  14. #1- your 1/4 turn past on the sizing die for Glock bulge is probably tilting the plate enough to cause irregularities on the seating and crimping side of things. #2- measurements with lead Bullets, case thickness, and final round oaw, can vary quite a bit, do they case gauge? Do they function well? #3- Dillon makes awesome stuff but I’ve never had good luck with their dies not shredding cases without enough live to cause suction issues. #4- lube is good and a dab should do you. Your pic looks like a rough carbide sizing ring to me though. id guess though, your sizing die is too deep and the difference in the length of the cases you’re sizing on one side is causing the failures on the other side of the plate at the same time.
  15. with 11 in the mag, it’s....an open gun! no worries TC, all gun pics are cool
  16. Rubbing’s racing,, get over it, Unless you’re selling it..., then tell them to get over it.... just an opinion, but there’s no reason to spend money on reworking a “scuff” unless that part is bowed, cupped, checked, warped, or split. It’s takes effort to make that happen with metal, and unless it’s cracked or worn beyond it’s life, put it in the safe and sleep well. again, just an opinion
  17. I had one on a carry gun, it was good for that purpose in my opinion but the glass is small and horribly dark in comparison to the current prevalent micros you’ll see on open guns. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. What type of brass and caliber? It’s probably either a stepped case or very unsupported chamber, or potentially out of battery ignition.
  19. Ya, I understand your logic, but the case was always undersized and wasn’t a press fit into the chamber to begin with. Your talking about the coefficient of thermal expansion which wouldn’t be applicable unless the chamber had enough pressure to expand more than the case to begin with and then constrict on the case due to differential pressures. In something like a Jacobs or Morse taper, this is an entirely different situation than a thin piece of brass in a relatively thick walled piece of steel. Just my opinion Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. Not to totally contradict but just spray some gun oil, wd40, or other lubricant in it to soak outside the case and use a brush, pick, tweezers, etc to remove. the case expanded and wedged itself inside the chamber during firing but cools and shrinks after firing. It happens every time you fire a round, you’re just missing the rim and extractor now. There’s carbon that’s making it sticky
  21. Case head separation, or it’s like a squib but it’s actually a detonation, meaning it’s a super light charge that had enough free space/air in the case to detonate vs burn like a normal rounds does. If you go below the minimum charge weight it can be equally as catastrophic if an explosion as going drastically over the max charge with a fast powder. I’d rather have a squib any day of the week that a 1 grain (light charge) of titegroup go off. Think firecracker vs sparkler Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. It’s also good to carry spares of things that you’re likely to lose if disassembly in a windy, rocky, safety area when in a hurry. Pin sets, springs, etc may not be a part that breaks all the time but finding a plunger spring in a weed patch makes it worth carrying an extra whenever I’m shooting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I agree, this is more of a box of parts that wear and eventually need replacing vs an emergency repair kit but it’s a small enough box that it really doesn’t matter to me that I’m carrying the extra stuff Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. There’s no reason to unless there’s a reason to due to wear or fitting issues with the barrel, or the slide reaming being worn or oversized, or the specific comp or fitting. i had a slide that needed one due to shoulder wear/chamfer on the plug cut, it was a shorty which also changes the amount of bearing surface area and material in the tunnel. no reason to use a one unless you have an issue in my opinion
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