Tampa-XD45

You may want to review this doc: https://www.hiperfire.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/HIPERTOUCH_FCG_Trouble_Shooting_Guide.pdf I don't run a Hiperfire but going "full auto" is mentioned in the doc.

You can use your current lower with a mag conversion block. Unfortunately a good mag block like the Hahn is going to be around $200 Stern Defense & Sylvan Arms make Glock mag blocks for $120 - $180. I haven't tried them. I have used Spikes Tactical & Hahn mag blocks. You can get a complete PSA Glock style lower for about the same cost as a good mag block. I run Colt mags with a mag block only because I use a registered SBR lower and I can remove the mag block and use a 556 upper. I built mine 5 years ago before any of the current AR9 options existed. If I were getting into the AR9 platform today, I would buy a dedicated Glock style AR9 lower or complete gun. Your budget will dictate the brand.

My 223 Timney trigger probably has 10K rounds on it with no issues. I guess you would gain a 1 pound trigger weight decrease for your $170 purchase. If you shoot a lot of matches, it's a good idea to had a spare trigger. And make sure your spare parts and spare firing pin are in your range bag since I've proven that having a spare in your garage does no good when you're at a match with a broken part.

Check with bmiiler on this forum: https://forums.brianenos.com/profile/29808-bmiller/ He makes them for various models.

That's strange. I used Starline brass when I shot 38 short colt and never had a single case problem after many reloads. I wonder if you got a bad batch. It might be worth calling Starline to inform them of your issue. Magtech also makes 38 short colt ammo but the label theirs as "38 spl short".

Looks like Robin has been doing some welding: http://taylorfreelancestore.com/the-roosevelt-high-capacity-pcc-mag-with-extension-red/

Use a heat gun or a torch and have patience. Guys heat a bolt for 2 minutes and expect it to break free. It may take 10 -15 minutes of heating for the threadlocker to liquefy. You see wisps of smoke when it does.

Yes. And parts of my stainless steel Weber BBQ grill also rust. Florida humidity and sea breezes are tough on metal. From Google for those interested in metallurgy: The chromium in stainless steel when exposed to oxygen in the atmosphere forms a thin invisible layer called chromium oxide. This invisible layer covering the entire surface gives stainless steel its ability to resist stains and rust. If this layer is damaged rust is formed on the surface at the point of that damage.

FWIW - I've had the inside of the welded seam rust which causes roughness for the orange plastic follower and can bind. I only use the ASC mags for practice. I only use metalforms in matches.

Lowering the front lip wouldn't accomplish anything. See the photo below. With the bolt closed (top photo), the rounds in the mag will bump against the bolt ramp. With the bolt open (bottom photo) the rounds would hit the bottom of the ejector if the front of the mag wasn't already hitting the bottom of the feed ramp. If you're shooting a classifier with a mandated mag change, download the 2nd mag for easier loading. E.g. if you're shooting El Prez which is Virginia count, you only need 6 rounds in the 2nd mag. (I would still load 8 in case you have to eject a bad round or two.)

Here's another post with pics: https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/252374-blitzkrieg-hydraulic-buffer-failure/ I sold mine long ago.

You may want to call STI. I had a similar question with a used Dan Wesson 1911 so I called them, gave them the serial number and they gave me the sight info.

No need for a heavy barrel for PCC. I've used the lightest Wilson Arms and Macon Armory barrels I can get.

There is no major or minor scoring in steel matches. No minimum power factor. Here are the rules: https://uspsa.org/viewer/SCSA_Rule_Book.pdf Be safe, go fast, have fun. Here are the divisions:

I use conventional 1911 pouches but I've been seeing more of these at matches this year: https://www.amazon.com/eAMP-Challenger-Magazine-Pouch-MagP0133-F/dp/B01BPF4SBA

Keep a copy of this in your files for reference on 1911 malfunctions: http://hereigoagainonmyown.tumblr.com/post/90502134438/victran-1911-malfunctions-by-hilton-yam-of-10-8

What steel division do you want to shoot? Since you like your STI Edge you can call STI and ask if they'll sell you a 9mm top end (slide & barrel), or shoot minor power factor 40 cal loads with your current gun.

Have you looked through the 510C? That 65 MOA circle is larger than the steel plates which leaves you with a 2 MOA dot. I tested the 510C and returned it for that reason.

4-3-2-1-S For me, changing muzzle direction only one time is always the fastest on any stage.

One 32 round mag per stage.

Move with the squad.

How did you resolve your nose dive problem with your PM-9?

Warren - can you post of pic of that tool?

Also: Venom, 3 or 6 MOA dot and 1632 battery $230 @ Midway Viper, 6 MOA dot and 2032 battery $180 @ Midway I've had to use Vortex customer service and they were great.

Here are a couple of inexpensive options: https://www.hogueinc.com/grips/handall/sleeve http://gripforceproducts.com/GEN_3.html