whistlepig

Blood grooves so your gat doesn't get get stuck in a target............... (cardboard grooves maybe???) I guess that the yoke might be used for diff length cylinders and the cuts come in to play, but that is a only a guess. One of my co-workers is a smith revolver nut and an old school revo armorer. I will ask and see if that is more helpful

Your pic is exactly what I was sayin about the bullet shape. That flat point rd works like the JHP bullet in your manual. Which is showing you a COAL of 1.120 You are close to solving it.

Your bullet shape there may be throwing a wrench into the works...... The OAL of the rd is based on a FMJ ROUNDNOSE bullet. A flat point is gonna need to be seated a little lower. Try a quick diagnostic. This is different than your method above, but bear with me. Put a loaded rd in the crimp station, other stations empty. With the rd not in the die, turn it down a bit. Run the rd in. measure your crimp, do it again and measure again. You should be seeing a diminishing measurement. Also check your OAL each time. If that squat Flat Point Bullet is hitting the inside of the crimp die anywhere, it will push it (bullet) lower. In short, with no rd in the die, it should be free to move up and down, and you should get a diff crimp. If you are tightening a crimp die with a rd in place, you are forcing the die to try to crimp by the force of your wrench turnig the die, not with the mechanical advantage of using the leverage of the machine. Post results and we will see if we can get you going. And the advice to call DIlon was good too. They are always helpful.

Try inserting the empty mag while the gun is field stripped. Usually that gives you enough open area to see the problem. Try it with the problem magazine and one that works well and see if you can spot something out of place. Having a good light under the magwell shining at you helps.

If you have rds that are not too long and the mag body is undamaged, check with Magpul. They will probably make it right. Did the longer spring help here?

I can't answer but I suggest you put this in the "dillon" thread as one of their employees answers tech questions there regularly. I am interested in the response as well. I trim the old fashioned way and have been thinking about going to this.

I know that there are many fans of the 1050 here, and no insult intended...... But what I went with was a second 650. I have them side by side, one set up for small primer and one for large. I find the conversions to be easy this way.

ref "sticking", new cases are harder to cycle. Fired cases are lots easier. When cases are fired then run thru a tumbler some of the residue helps lubricate the inside of the case. You can use a LIGHT dose of an aerosol case lube that gets inside the case too, or you can put a LITTLE touch of a wax lubricant like the Redding wax on the exterior of the pwder funnel itself. It doesn't take much, like just drag a finger across the wax then just touch the funnel. Ref belling, just adjust that die down till you have what you want. Doesn't need much.

I have a 10.5 inch AR (not a JP) and it is way good in the light and fast handling departments. Very accurate and well balanced. As far as noise goes, they can be loud. I (and this is my opinion, I don't want to start a yes it does/no it doesn't argument.....) have found that the Noveske KX3 flash hider is very effective at pushing the sound downrange and away from the shooter. The 10.5's used in a Law Enforcement setting were found to be rough in close quarters, not so much to the shooter, but to partners on either side in close quarters. Switching to the KX3 makes the 10.5's to seem like a 18 inch gun to the shooter near the muzzle. The noise and muzzle blast is not reduced as a suppressor would do, but rather seems to be "pushed away". It makes for a funny echo in a shooting bay. Love love love my shorty.

Hmmm..... does sound indeed like a high pressure thing then. To see primers crater and/or flow are usually the precurser to trouble for whoever is shooting those. I guess as the one picking them up it falls under do you have enough to make it worth the trouble to deal with them? I myself go back to the "if it is a few every hundred" that I wouldn't mess with them. Good luck

Not to nit pick, and just in response to the original post, I think that what you are seeing is primers backing out of a loose primer pocket. If i was picking up a few out of every hundred I would just cull em, as my luck would have them cause an awesome malfunction. If you wanted to try them, a suggestion would be to set them aside as you found them till you had a decent number, then just deprime those as one job. I wouldn't mess with them.

I want the LEGO casefeeder for a 650

I say get the right one

We have some good luck with RL15 in this application. I don't have my notebooks with me now, but I will send you some suggestions.

Call em. I imagine that they will make it right.

The front sight is simple, The rear is doable if you are mechanical at all. If the thought is a bit intimidating I have two suggested routes. If you compete at all, somebody at the matches has done it. Ask for a hand. I imagine you will get it. If you have no intention of participating in organized competition, look around your local law enforcement. Odds are, one of the agencies shoots Glocks and if they do, somebody will be an armorer and have the sight tool. Agian, if you ask, you will probably be offered a hand. Good luck. If you want to try yourself without a sight tool, I recommend using a WOODEN parallel clamp and a WOODEN workbench to hold the slide still firmly. I use pieces of scrap leather between the clamp jaws for extra finish protection. It's much easier when the slide holds still.

Heat. The numbers are from memory, so take with a grain of salt...... "normal" red holds to 300 degrees and there is a "High temp" version that holds to 450 degrees. Sometimes a heat gun is enough, but normally people reach for a torch. A hair dryer won't cut it. I suggest shielding the gun with aluminum foil. This helps prevent heat discoloration to the finish. U can localize heat transfer to a smaller point by heating another piece of meatal to high temp then holding to the part you want heated. This helps prevent damage to adjoining areas, but takes longer. Good Luck

Also just throwed out...... Are the extensions and springs new or picked up used? Might just need new springs or may not have the right spring for an extension to begin with. If your loads are factory or within good OAL's then I would think springs. I second Graham's response as well. Some folks just find that they don't like em. Take this with a grain of salt as all of mine run great in both a 34 and a 35. Edit spellin

Graham speaks the truth...... as I age, my precision stuff gains weight and rifles I have to carry lose it.

I am dissapointed that it did. It spoke volumes about this mess. His own words address it better than any of mine.

I debated posting a reply to this thread several times and held off, knowing that a pithy comment won't help and also knowing that my instinctive replies would cause undue heartburn to a Mod...... I take exception to several things, but in an attempt to keep it on a civil level I want to point out that this quoted statement is incorrect. Flex answered your original post/question with the exact answer with the second response to the original post and it was given on the same morning you posted it. Your statement is incorrect. Just because you didn't get the answer you desired does not mean that your question wasn't answered. I also point out that I am familiar with the posts of the other folks in this thread who have responded and have not found them to "waste space" or "lower the class of the forum". I am with Sarge on this one. Maybe this isn't for you. Per the spirit of the Forum and out of respect for those who administer and moderate it I say "welcome". From the line animals like myself I point out that respect is received when it is given.

Not sure of the total, but it was damn near every round I could get....................

If your FMJ stuff was also 230 grain, you should be able to fire away with your old data..... In the interest of "standard reloading advice" start a bit low and work up. I imagine that every manual in print will have a load for a 230 grain projectile in .45acp and W231. Good luck

The good news is, no. It won't chamber. The bad news is, the suminabitch don't always come out easy.......................

OK, this replaces "fried chicken blowout" for funny user name award........