whistlepig

in .308, 1:10 or 1:12 works well over a wide spectrum of bullet weights..... it is very forgiving in this area. I have shot bullets as a heavy as a 180 gr Sierra MK in both twists with good results. If it is in an M1A or a Garand, be wary of heavier bullets... The pressures and speed of operation are hard on the Op Rods.

try Hornady one shot case lube..... aereosol spray, it drys and very very little, if any, gets in case mouth. No problems noted here with "setback". After your round is loaded, wipe it once with a cloth, excess lube removed easy. Dont tumble already loaded ammo, the powder gets abused and actually can start to break into smaller pieces and different shapes. That affects burning rate, which affects pressure. Different pressure means wide variances in velocity, BC and then group size. I trim rifle brass when needed as a seperate step. The Dillon power trimmer works, but I spend the money on more bullets.

I'm no germaphobe, but its not a good idea to contaminate your oven or dryer..... All kinds of things going on in combustion inside a case. Firefighters don't wash their turnout gear in home washers and dryers for the same reason. For your dirty cases, just hose off and let air dry. Shake em around over the course of drying and it will turn out fine.

Magnum primers (in any size) are formulated for a hotter ignition flame.... no prob to to use in your application. The issue behind the creation of the magnum primer was to increase dependability in ignition. The increased ignition temp/flame is a non-issue after the powder is ignited.... the burning powder far surpasses the primer in heat/pressure. I use normal SPP, but would take magnum if that what was avail.

All of the previous post have good info..... but let me emphasize DON'T TUMBLE LOADED ROUNDS. Powder burn rates depend on the structural integrity of each piece of powder as it was made. In most pistol apllications, it wont be enough to blow up a gun, but it can ruin you on a chrono check and really, who needs to make something new that adds a variable? You can see problems in older imported bulk rifle ammo (usually military)that has been tumbled to "look better". Doesnt shoot worth a *#*&* and if you pull it, the powder looks horid. Who knows how much the tumbling contributed, but it did some. also, I posted the following to another question about not want wanting Glock fired brass for reloads. I shoot em, but maybe the info will be helpful..... "If knowing that brass has been in a glock is important to you, you can always tell by looking at the fired primer. A round discharged in a Glock will have a distinct "stamp" (really a tool mark) visible in the primer. The Glock breechface has a rectangular cut for the firing pin and the tip of the firing pin is a distinct shape, kinda like a flat triangle rather than the round firing pin tip of most other weapons. The resulting imprint left on the fired primer is easy to spot once you know what to look for. The rectangular cut of the breechface is very apparent and the triangle tip is distinct as well. Examine a fired primer from a Glock next to a fired primer from say, a Sig and you will see what I mean. The Sig (and other weapons that use a round firing pin) leaves a clear round dimple imprint, in some guns accompannied by a gouge to one side. Once you see the Glock difference, you can find one fired Glock case among 100 that are not."

You will have better ammo running two seperate operations. You did not say what kind of press you load on, but IMHO it applies even on a single stage.

75 grain AMAX will shoot great in your gun........... as a single shot load. It won't fit as a magazine length tolerant round. Ditto the above advice on 77 grain SMK and the 75 grain Hornady HPBT. It does fit in magazines and was the go-to bullet for years by service match shooters. The Sierra is taking over though.

just FYI, Federal primers are a bit "softer" and are avoided by some people who shoot semi auto rifles with floating firing pins. They are avoiding slam fires. Those shooters seem to prefer WIN and CCI..... CCI actually markets a harder "mil-spec" primer designed for semi military style firearms..... In a pistol, I shoot whatever can be had.

First, a properly adjusted sizing die will handle any case bulge... I have not found a need for the U die. Just my experience. And it is always a good idea to inspect fired brass like you described. Don't sweat the dirt if you have a tumbler or vibratory case cleaner. You will be amazed what can be rescued. If knowing that brass has been in a glock is important to you, you can always tell by looking at the fired primer. A round discharged in a Glock will have a distinct "stamp" (really a tool mark) visible in the primer. The Glock breechface has a rectangular cut for the firing pin and the tip of the firing pin is a distinct shape, kinda like a flat triangle rather than the round firing pin tip of most other weapons. The resulting imprint left on the fired primer is easy to spot once you know what to look for. The rectangular cut of the breechface is very apparent and the triangle tip is distinct as well. Examine a fired primer from a Glock next to a fired primer from say, a Sig and you will see what I mean. The Sig (and other weapons that use a round firing pin) leaves a clear round dimple imprint, in some guns accompannied by a gouge to one side. Once you see the Glock difference, you can find one fired Glock case among 100 that are not. The scratch on the brass you see may not be from the gun. Brass on a LE range gets tromped on and even driven over. It probably happened after the brass was on the ground. If you dont like the Glock brass, send it to me Clean it, fill it, shoot it................

If you are using the SD and Dillon dies, skip the potential case lube problem all together. Cases that are halfway clean and the Dillon dies will go all day long. Dillon stuff, in pistol calibers, doesnt need it.

You already have some equipment so it appears you are familiar with reloading...... If you enjoy it, it will be the way to go for all the reasons listed already. If you hated it, ask yourself if the reasons listed already are enough to make you do something you detest. Most of my fellow shooter reload, but we have two who refuse. They hate it..... They shop for deals and buy like you described. I follow them around and pick up their brass.

Dillon will fixee....... U may be right on the cause, but also be aware of trash/debris collecting in the spot a primer rests in. they seem to collect small bits of whatever and the seating of a primer with a foreign object in between the ram and primer can (and has) cause detonation. good call on the safety glasses

I don't find it to be too fine for close in work, I find that close in and under speed my eye is drawn to the small circle....... But remember this is all subjective opinion. You might hate it. If you can, shoot somebody elses before you decide. Even if it's only dry fire, try to cycle from one target to another and find your point of aim. You will be able to tell pretty quick if it is to fine for you.

If you have them, shoot them. Not a problem for a semi-auto and I havent seen any reliablty problems that could be assigned to them. Not really a weight saver compared to the carriers that are designed for that, though.

Due to your rifle having a normal history, i would chalk that one up to ammo... Maybe primer pockets at the high end of tolerance, maybe not crimped. The newer brown box XM193 brass and primer comes off the same line as the militay/govt line and have a crimped in primer. im not sure about the white box. I know its weird since she didnt experience it, but stranger things have happened. It would be interesting to mic fired cases from that box of ammo from the two rifles and compare results.

sorry to ask, but blown primer as in the round discharged and the primer came out of the case, (little sumbit*# usually ends up under the trigger mechanism) or blown as in stayed in place, but ruptured and spewed gas back at ya? Two different issues. Off the top of my head, inspect your firing pin tip carefully. A chipped one can contribute to pierced primers and I actually have seen a piece of trash lodge in the firing pin hole and cause it as well. Ammo good? If you have any of that box left over, inspect them close and guage em.

Friends dont let friends use promag.......... with those two choices, stay factory if you are depending on it.

The High Bore Line is a big deal to some........ a non-issue to others. I fall into the non-issue group. Borrow one and shoot it. I find that grip angle and shape play a much larger role. I like sigs and with your list, it would be my pick. But, shoot em all and see then. shoot under time to see if one or the other runs better (tighter groups) for you.

depends on what u doing with the gun and holster. Concealment..... go high quality custom leather. I like Milt Sparks myself. Not much more money than bulk made safarialnd or galco and wayyyyyy better quality. great comfort and no gun fit problems. The only downside is waiting on it. They are busy. As far as retention, a proper fit custom leather holster will hold the gun till u draw it. It won't bounce out, even under heated activity. for sport or matches? Bladetech.

In ref to it firing fine, think about the mechanics. When u are chambering the round (reload or factory) it is chambering and the bolt is locking, so headspace is within specs. That is why the rounds are passing guage check. The issue is that the bullet, the projectile itself, is being jammed into the lands of the rifling. (what the previous poster was saying about the throat being short) and what u are seeing as marks at the ogive of the bullet. upon releasing the charging handle to first chamber a round the resistance of this is undetectable to you, and when the round is fired, it works as advertised, albeit with higher pressure. If you decide to maually unchamber a round, the bullet is resisting your pull, as it is "jammed" into the lands and the neck tension/crimp is pulling on the jammed bullet. If you are pulling the charging handle, the handle pulls the Bolt Carrier Assembly, which forces the bolt to rotate and unlock, then moves rearward and using the extractor, pulls on the rim of the case. The case is then pulling on the bullet. Either the case neck tension/crimp wins and the case comes out with bullet (and land marks) or the lands win and u get empty case and powder spillin every frickin where. Send it back. They will fixee. And send some sample bullets with marks.

It all depends on what u want to use it for. Think about your intended use and go from there. Hump the Boonies? lighter weight. Close quarter or quick transition? shorter length..... etc etc.

I understand your budget constraints, but consider this when thinking the Dillon is too much...... I have a 14 year old vibratory case cleaner from Dillon. The smaller one. Earlier this year i worked it to death. Killed it. SumBit#$ just quit....... IT GOT USED A BUNCH. Under the Dillon no BS warranty, I sent it to them and one week later, it arrived with all new motor power cord and switch.... works great now and only cost me the $13 to ship it to them. In the long run, I consider it a wise purchase.

Lead is great. Dirty and smokey, but very accurate, and much mo cheaper. Shoot lots and lots in .45 using WW231. A little extra effort required in cleaning, but all in all a good trade for more rounds to shoot.

Dust is present in all crush media when new. several uses will sort that out. try getting plain media then adding polish (like Dillon rapid polish). No weird color. Works well.

The issue of neck tension/proper crimp does need to be checked, but is different from what is causing the setback to begin with. The issue will probably be mag related (the cartridge starting position or it's initial movement) or if you have an adapter block in the magwell it may not be positioned correctly. Try looking at the cartridge (**USE A DUMMY ROUND**) from the ejection port as you slowly allow the bolt to move forward. Look for the cartridge tip to "dive" or drop toward the interior of the magazine. (this check works best with the gun in the proper firing postion as gravity is always on) If that is happening, the rounds are being forced into the inside front of the magazine or the bottom of the feed ramp/area. This impact, under the force of a chambering is harsh. 1. Check as many mags as you have available and see if it repeats with them all 2. Do it again with some factory FMJ rounds to compare if they setback as well ref comparing neck/tension crimp. COAL is not too much if the rounds fit in a box magazine that is designed for that caliber. Good luck, and dont hesitate to call Rock River. I have always had good service from them.