whistlepig

I vote for a light weight profile 16" barrel, based on your OP with mid length gas. Several are avail. On the gas block, the answer would depend on ammo. Do you always run a standard weight commercial loading? If so, go with a standard lo pro. If you vary loads and/or handload I vote adjustable. I just finished a new upper for games and I went with an 18" light weight profile SS free float with a non adjustable lo pro block and a small JP comp. It is shooting very well.

it doesnt apply to firearms, but I will never go into a "UPS store" again. They wanted $28 for a box to Illinois from NC that the actual UPS did for $9 at a UPS corp office. And it was boxed and ready to go.

Pick out a Luminox, but stick with the steel body models with sapphire crystals One mans opinion I have two that have gone almost everywhere and done almost everything. Awesome watches and tougher than hell

Slower burn gives you what you desire. Ask anybody that has worked up a handload for a shorter barreled rifle, they have all found that magic mix that just isn't quite done when it escapes the muzzle. It really doesn't increase recoil but the report is fourth of July worthy. I found it with a load that was pefect in a 24 inch .243 but too slow for a 16 inch barrel. Sounded and looked like a 105 mm Howitzer goin off....

"cause if you don't shut yer trap, this 20 minute ticket will turn into eight hours at central booking........" At least that's what I heard.........

Try superdudes suggestion first. I agree with him. If you like the accuracy I'm betting you aren't key holing

how much of a steal? and do you want to move it?

I am not against Techwell, But I run Smith and Alexanders on all my SS 1911. One man's preference.

This says it all

Graham beat me to it. The only thing I will add is to know your scopes adjustments. 10 clicks on a 1/8 adjustment per click scope would not be a lot. Only thing diff I do is always shoot at target center and I shoot groups instead of singles. The box shape ending back up where you started is what you are looking for.

Mike, pm me and I will help you get the real range zeros. We can go to 300 about 40 minutes from Clemmons

427Cobra speaks wisely. Once you have checked rings and bases for tightness, I would do a box test with your scope. That will ensure it is functioning properly and no broken internals. Probably no problem there, but it is worth doing just to increase confidence in your gear. Then look at ammo if it is handloads and check specifics there, in particular seating depth. After all arrows have been checked for straightness, check Indian! Good luck

It's not OCD...........It's CDO, with the letters in order, AS THEY SHOULD BE

I am with Pat on this one. In my experience, and as it applies to free hand running and gunning, the LaRue has done very well. To split hairs, It is a context issue too. A bench rest shooter would throw up in his mouth at the thought of this being done to one of his guns. In this game (and for Gov't work) the LaRue does what it says. One man's opinion.

In my limited experience in this endevour, I found that what shoots good (by that I mean very accurate to about 125 meters) and is subsonic would not cycle a normal action. Veeeeerrrrrry nice though as a quite round. I will freely admit to my knowledge being limited in this subject. I do agree that this is why the 30 cal subsonics that fit in an AR 5.56 size paltform were invented. The one 30 cal I know of is super dependable and a nice iron.

Glad you are ok...... that one is in the lead for the drastic failure award. From the pics, it looks like the firing pin is in place, but pulled/pushed partway back. Do you remember if it was like this in the immediate post blast or did it move as the remains were being inspected? This smacks of obstructed bore. The only one like this I have seen before was the result of an obstructed bore (squib load) between the gas port and the muzzle. All of the gas came racing back down the gas tube and split the upper in an VERY similar way. That shooter had a split gas tube as well and a slight, but identifiable barrell bulge just forward of the front sight base. If the firing pin was pushed back, I can only wonder if there is case failure with gas escaping there as well, but I would imagine that there would be more firing pin damage. Please keep us up to date as you salvage and inspect the carcass. Once again, glad you are ok.

Welcome to the forum. Albertl35 has a custom open Glock 17 for sale the classifieds very close to your budget. Something to consider that would be ready to run. Good luck

Did anyone else glance at the scope then spend more time trying to look for goodies on the shelf?

I'm with Lee on this. American surplus mags have always run in my M1A's.

There have been some posts on other threads here on BE about some serious quality control problems in some CCI primer runs in the last year, to wit: out of round and squished, but to be fair I did exactly what you are talking about (finding some at a good price) and have had 0 problems. I got 5000 and they all looked good. I have run about 1400 through a 650 with no problems.

When you do this, film it and post it

I don't use case lube when reloading straight wall pistol cases. I do tumble clean, but then it goes into the reloader. I'm no expert, but I can't see this "helping" the brass, only making a diff in the effort required to size.

This says it. To me it is an apples to oranges comparison.

I add my humble opinion that attempting to go 9 major in a Glock 34 is not a great idea. I will also say that you would be hard pressed to find better observations and experience with it than Cocobolo. Good luck

+1 to this. And it doesn't take a build up of crud. Any random debris seems to find that spot. I have made it a habit to wipe it clean every so often.