whistlepig

+1 this. I have a 10.5 SBR that I love to shoot and with this method it is quite handy. Go shoot and have fun. Try other rigs and see what works for you. For the game, you rarely see an SBR, but the do have panache and cool points.

I don't use them as range bags, but i have a few pelican cases. Tougher than hell, but not light. They are very good at protecting your gear but that comes at the cost of weight. Pick and pluck foam is awesome for holding the gear exactly they way you want, but you then give up flexibility. If everything is in it's place, there is nowhere to put the odd item. I use a small ruck for range stuff. Its big enough to also hold the small pistol bag I use too. Free Pelican Plug: I was witness to a pickup truck that had four rifles (all in hard cases) strapped down in the bed when it was rear ended in a pretty serious wreck. Both rifles in Pelicans were found to be in perfect condition while the other two were not. Both Pelican cases are still in service, albeit with nice road rash.

Adding the word "tactical" will drive sales through the roof............................

I only say this because I am one too......... please tell me you don't work with Demo or in surgery

Not a large market, but you can reload it easy enough. I know of a grand total one person loading it.

I can't address why others don't use it in the game, but the use came from the serious side of the handgun business (of which we will not speak)... Sig and Beretta have done it for years on their iron sights. In serious uses during dynamic exchanges of a social nature, people had to look at the target in focus, not the sights, as the outcome of the next few seconds hinged on on what the target was doing and in particular what was or wasn't in their hands. People who were pointing handguns at other people found that when keeping both eyes open and focused on the target that they saw 2 sets of sights.... Alignment with that condition becomes more of a challenge. It CAN be done no matter what sight is being used, but most people will find that in that scenario keeping a dot over a bar (or square) is easier. If the two are alligned, windage is good and if they are reasonably close to one another elevation is ok. People lots smarter than me have said that it is because the brain finds the alignment of two things easier than three. It takes out the possibilty of aligning three dot sights with the front sight to the outside of either rear seat..... Dont laugh, its been done. The next time you have both a set of bar dots and three dots together try it out. Now the above is blasphemy to an accuracy artist, but it is real world. I have night sights on two Sigs in Bar Dot configuration. Love'em. When I game, which isn't often, I use a F/O front and a plain rear. As far as who makes Bar Dots now...... what pistol do you want them for? In last resort a dimple can be machined into your front sight and a square relief cut into your rear. Fill both with laquer in a color of your choice. With the relief cuts filled, it is fairly durable.

I love the Oakley boots........... as long as they are bought by somebody else. They are the lightest, most comfy boots I have ever had that still had support. But in my experience, they don't hold up well. Asking what is the best boot is going to generate lots of diff opinions. I say try to find the brand that fits your foot the best and then look for the lightest model. While I like a Danner, somebody else won't.

+1 on this.

Ok.............. "Fried chicken blowout" is in the running for the name of the day

+1 what greg bell said I do not address any rules with this suggestion, but taking the edge off the rear top corner is easy even with sandpaper and is very effective. The loss of material is not noticed when using the mag release, but no more pain.

The 650 is awesome as a high volume production tool, but as you discovered, not the simplest way to work on load development. I admit that I do all development using single stage press and then set up a 650 for mass production when I know what I want. If you only have the 650, make friends with someone with a single stage. You can do it on the 650, its just labor intensive. Trial and error will help smooth out the process for you. I have found that when I make a change on the powder measure, I throw the first 5 or 6 charges back into the powder measure in the belief that it is "settling down" to a consistant throw. If you ask 40 people here opinions on the process you will probably get 39 diff answers.... And most probably will work.

did u lose any of the tiny parts under the sight? also u can add material to the rear site with epoxy and or JB weld and then trim to fit. U want to start it with a very snug fit. I suggest trying to alter the sight rather than the slide.

interesting related topic..... The rails on the NERF guns are the right size. You haven't laughed till you watch an 8 year old clearing (with good tactics) a dark house with a NERF dart gun and a $400.00 Surefire setup......... My only fear is what's going to happen to my light if he keeps shining it in his older sisters face while she is sleeping

Look into front sight replacement with a diff blade height.

I vote shoot it anyway. The debate would illustrate who is who..................

I got $20 that says SOMEBODY would complain................

Forgive my ignorance, but why wouldn't a crush washer work?

A big part of deciding is hand postion. If prone, I find a hunting style like the M40ish to be tiring after a short period while a more vertical grip like an A3 is much mo better for me. The hunting style (to me) works great offhand and the straight grip is the choice for prone work. Personal preference applies here

me vote 35

Nope, haven't seen it. That is a very interesting location though..................

Both above posts are good input..... also have you compared your loads with any factory stuff? It is always informative to compare. If you are trying to wring out all accuracy, try some 77 gr SMKs. I have a 1:8 AR that doesnt really care for a 75 grain Hornady HPBT match but loves the 77 gr SMK. Who knows? If the chamber is 5.56 and it is a chrome lined barrel, good round groups in the one inch range are actually nice. All that being said, for your intended purpose (witty comments banned by forum guidelines) I would vote for the 1 1/4 group VMAX over a sub 1 inch SMK. The flight path is only half the battle.

I say get a few sizes of roll pins to try for the right fit and be done with it. If nails be the only choice, go 1/2 size bigger and smack it

Nice, but that disturbance you feel in the space-time continuum is the presence of the streamlight TLR-1. Get a Surefire X300 and all will be right in the world.

If you have access, try diff ones. I have several McMillans and my most used is a rem 700 action in an A3. In prone, I find the vertical style of grip is best for me. As far as inletting goes, you can get them un-inletted and have them cut however you want. A good smith can work with whatever bottom metal you like. I have 2 Rem 700 with Badger Ord bottom metal and bolt handles and both are done nice. I do like how McMillan will custom mix colors in a swirl pattern. Good camo and scrathes don't matter. McMillan will lighten stocks upon request (Hollowed out and foam filled). McMillan has been slow sometimes, but I have always seen good product.

OAL does seem short...... As far as confirming if it is mechanical (shape of chamber) or physical (pressure or burning rate) compare by firing the same load in a diff gun. close comparison of fired cases from both guns will be good info. I also agree with get it chrono'd.