slavex

don't use plexi, use the plastic from some packaging, the hard stuff around tools or whatever, it's only 2mm thick or something. cut it so that it fits in the hole where the primers drop, and the space between the cover and the body of the tool. You don't want it to lift the cover up at all. As noted at least a 45 degree angle helps, I actually go steeper, and then rotate the filler around the tube, back and forth. takes maybe 10 seconds to fill a tube.

So I finally bit the bullet and made my new die. Well, my buddy did all the work actually. We took a new RCBS Carbide 9mm die, drilled and tapped it and put a new Dillon decapping assembly in it. He had to make a spacer nut so that we could adjust the decapping rod height, and lock it in place. Luckily he had some bar stock that was exactly the same as the Dillon rod top. End result? AWESOME. no more squished springs like the RCBS Power Punch suffered from when it hit hard to eject primers, no more broken punches (at least not yet), and it runs smoooooth. Wicked setup. I don't use a Dillon die on my 1050 as I feel they undersize the case too much, always resulting in that weird hour glass shape to the case once loaded.

the movies are good, but the action is kinda lame, plus in the beginning of TGWKTHN there is a big continuity error in one of the fight scenes. Whilst I am not really holding my breath for the Hollywood versions, I hope they do a better job of translating the action than the Swedish films did. The Swede films did a great job on mood, tension and character, but not so good otherwise, IMHO. the books however were excellent, my wife got us hooked with a recommendation from Peoples magazine years ago. I bought all our copies from Amazon UK, as they were out there almost two years before they were available here in North America.

even though the comics are great, why oh why do they have to maintain the same old staple storyline and plot devices. Why did he not even try to start the tank, why is it that the only vehicle they could try was in a yard on the side of town? why is it that suddenly glass in the front of buildings is easy to break down? Can't anyone come up with an original idea for this stuff? if loud noises attract them, why didn't he toss the grenade? oooh, how about pouring alcohol on them from above and lighting them on fire, bet that would attract some. and since when are zombies tool users? using rocks to break glass, next they'll be driving too.

Just a quick note, I used Mr. Bulletfeeder as the name as its the current name of the device, but it is in fact a KISS unit. I'll give Rick a call on my days off. I don't the think he'd like me calling at 3am when I'm up messing about.

ok so I've been using Gold Dots and Campro bullets (147gr) with my bullet feeder for years. Last week I got given a bunch of 147 gr Berry's. What a PITA. about every 10 bullets or so, one or more would be point down. Of course that makes a mess when loading on the 1050, bullets going everywhere, knocking powder out of the cases and such. I marked the thingee on the bullet feeder, loosened the allen screw, and tried turning it each way, so that the groove was engaging more, or less of the bullet as it traveled over it. In the end, it seems I've returned to the original position, and now I only get the occasional upside down bullet. I really don't get it. Any tips from anyone?

How would you bend a shellplate? I damaged a position on once. A bent decaping pin crunched the edge of the lip. Had to buy a new shell plate for that. But a bent shell plate? That's hard to imagine being your fault.

Converting a Lee Autoprime is the way to go. There are numerous threads on how to do it on here.

Once the lid is on the tray you shouldn't have any trouble with primers flipping or rolling on to their sides.

3 minutes per hundred is an average speed for me on my 1050 with Mr. Bullet Feeder. I'm now running prepped cases from my ammo guy (he's got a Camdex case prep machine now). Much smoother, no more broken primer punches (my bane).

ok so lesson #1, the scew in the basepad doesn't need loctite on it. not if you want to remove them without using heat.... ask me how I know. Henning can you bring another .050 allen wrench with you to Norway?

Tanfoglio sells rubber basepades, but they are kinda lame, they are held on by two screws through the metal baseplate. I glued mine on, and every now and then, would reglue them. Now that I have Hennings aluminum pads, I've left the rubber behind. His pads take a good beating on my concrete floor, and so far I've had zero issues.

double tap!

Got my basepads and springs today. YAY!! Needed longer stems on my followers to stay Canuck legal. No cutting of springs needed, they work just fine with the factory followers and 10 rounds. The extra power springs make a huge difference. Ran 300 rounds through them with no issues, through both my Stock II, and my new competition gun CZ Shadow. Since the Shadow is my main gun, I can use the Tan mags in it with these basepads and springs and still be PD legal in Canada and the rest of the world. If I have to default back to the Stock II, I guess I'm screwed (plan on bringing factory basepads with me to Norway and Czech, just in case). One other good note, with the Shadow, the basepads just contact the frame and cause the slide to auto forward on a firm mag insert. Love that, but it doesn't happen with the Stock II due to it's magwell being bigger. Overall review? These things rock!!!! Tanfoglio needs to make them a factory option. Oh and they look cool too!

my freakin basepads are sitting in the US right now waiting to be picked up. arrrrgggg I hate that they are only 10 minutes away and I can't get them!!!!!!!!!

I just got 40,000 Federal SPP last night. It seems Canada doesn't have a problem getting them.

Here in Canada we are stuck with 10 rounds no matter what. So I had to figure out a better way to limit my Tanfoglio mags than what the factory offered. The laser cut/dimpled mags broke rather easily, and because of the dimples, were a pain in the ass to take apart. Initially I was going to pin the interior base plate with a long pin that the follower would hit. Problems was, then you couldn't attach the spring to the plate and the plate would wobble and twist. So I decided to get some small aluminum tubing, thread it at both ends, and screw one end onto the small leg inside the follower. I also turned a small set screw into the other end. It took a few tries, but once I got the initial length worked out, it was easy. The purpose of the small setscrew is to prevent the rod from twisting or bending the plastic leg on the follower when it bottoms out. the set screw engages the dimple in the interior locking plate, and makes so that you can't force the follower past 10.5 rounds. Once everything was done, I loctited the screw, and gorilla glued the tube in place. Finding the right diameter tube wasn't too bad, the local hobby shop had a ton of different ones. You don't need to thread the post on the follower, as the threads in the tube will do it for you as you carefully thread it on. A slightly shorter rod would enable me to load 15 rounds, but I can't do that here in Canada, so most likely I'll just use factory followers when I compete outside of Canada. But for those of you wanting a way to ensure 15 round complianec without counting, this is a decent way, and doesn't wreck your mags.

a PC based one would rock, I've got a PC close enough that I could do that. and of course the I-Pod idea is genius, but sourcing parts to convert the signal over to the I-pod might be a bit much.

you really are an evil designer dude. I wish we were allowed those kinds of targets in IPSC.

Ive gotta say this is a pretty cool setup. Exporting to a PC would be neat, but probably expensive to develop. It's going on my list of things to get in the next year or so for my 1050 (although I've got a Pro2000 too, but I hardly use it anymore).

buy a Camdex (or is it Ammoload?) primer feeder, it's a hopper that feeds straight into a tube. I've seen one setup on a 1050 a few years back. Took a little monkeying to get it to work though, as it needed a flexible tube to absorb the vibrations of the handle strokes and such on the press. as for the modified Lee loader, I posted a pretty good set of instructions about 2 years ago, still use it with the tumbler acting as a vibrator, just set the end of the tube on a running tumbler lid, rotate the Lee tray back and forth and about 10-15 seconds to fill a tube. Pull the tube out, put the pick up end back on, stick another tube in, fill the tray, shake to line up primers, put the lid on, and start all over again. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64594&st=0&p=750149&fromsearch=1entry750149

whoa whoa whoa, what? no automated Rube Goldberg machine to empty your powder dispenser? I am seriously disappointed.

I've wanted to do it for years, the wife went when I was in Ecuador (didn't tell me till I got home either). lets see, what other extreme sports can we nominate Henning for? Those flying man suits look pretty cool, and you could combine an IPSC stage into it too I think?

nice dude. I used to ski many many years ago. Bad knee ended that. not that I was any good though, just barely beyond a snow plow. Miss it, and might look into it next year if the knee is any better. Gotta ask though, what's next for your hobbies? Parachuting, drag racing, BASE jumping? I mean you do all the cool stuff already, you're kinda running out of stuff to do.

a buddy of mine had similar problems with his Stock II. after watching the side of the barrel through the ejection port a bunch of times I noticed it was tilting slightly during the initial movement of the barrel. Think a slight rotation clockwise. It turned out to be the kidney shaped cut the pin goes through. it wasn't square to the barrel lugs. An oversized pin would make it awfully tight in there and explain exactly what's happening with your gun. His lugs were being rolled over as well. A new barrel (mine for test purposes), got rid of all these problems.