slavex

casefeeder is rock steady, and doesn't move. I am running it on high speed, only because it doesn't run at slow speed, however comparing to other friends setups my high speed is about the same as their slow speed

Doug, I used 50,000 primers I had that went through a flood years back, not a single problem with them. However another 10,000 of them went through a second flood, a lot of them were duds. I just dried them out with a dehumidifier I had at the farm at the time (big room for drying pelts). I also deprime cases with upside down live primers, and reuse them as long as the anvil is in them. Never had an issue doing that, depriming or firing later on once loaded into a case the right way.

doh, just posted a similar question

Just looking for some ideas on how to stop upside down cases from getting into the tube on my presses. I have a solution for catching them on the 1050 to prevent them from feeding, but would like to find a way to eliminate them coming down at all as I look to automate the 1050. Deprimed cases are the worst as they don't weight as much at the casehead and don't fall out of the feeder plate as easily as ones with primers do. I have the little tab bent in as per the directions, but some still sneak by, even primed cases sometimes. Pics of solutions would be awesome.

I find neither of the two Dillon tumblers I have (large and small) work worth a damn. They get too hot, even with vent holes added, cook the media and dry it out. The two Frankford Arsenal ones I had were both smaller and did larger loads and cleaned much much better. However, all of them now sit gathering dust instead of generating it. I think wet tumbling is the best thing you can do, and that the Frankford Arsenal kit is the best value on the market. I can do just over 20lbs of brass at a time (32lbs total with water and stainless pins). 45 minutes and the brass is better than new shiny. In the oven or out in the sun or in front of the fire until dry, and they are ready to go. No more dust in the air, no more dirty fingers, and they go through my press so much nicer. If you insist on going dry, get the enclosed RCBS Media separator, it will help keep the dust down. I use it for rinsing my brass now, and it keeps the splashing down too.

sounds like the brass got wet and sat for an extended period. waaay back I tried washing brass before loading, ended up forgetting a buck for about 2 months, went to use it and ran into this exact problem. Tossed out 5 gallons of brass as a result

The stainless mag brake makes no difference, I use them, because they are shiny, but that's it. the factory ones work just as well. the only time I've seen the brakes be an issue is when they aren't put back in properly after someone takes them out, then they bind the mag, but other than that I've never seen them be an issue. It's always the mag catch. According to Angus, removing material from the catch can cause it to hang up on the frame, bending the spring leg is just so much simpler, and easily reversed too.

jmorris, that was my beliefe too regarding the powder measure die, but somehow...... Boxerglocker, thank you so much for that link, I've never seen a product like that, but I now have some on order, it will work for a variety of things around my house! That's awesome. I think I am going to install a wee little spy camera down there and see what happens the next time I go away for an extended period of time.

The problem with filing the mag catch and profiling it is that people will overdo that and end up with mag catches that end up grabbing the frame when they aren't being pressed, and then when you press it, they bind up and nothing happens. The spring trick is just so much easier and works perfectly. Angus Hobdell told me to bend the left leg of the spring for a left side release and the right side for a right side release, but I don't think it really matters. As noted above it's important to do only the last 3mm or so, or you end up with a mag catch that rattles when there is no mag inserted. As for the video linked above, him replacing the mag brake with a stainless one will have accomplished nothing, the factory one is straight too, and had nothing to do with his mags not dropping free.

thanks guys, I have Sharpie markings on the crimp die, and the seating die is a micrometer Redding one, so the only one not marked is the powder one. I've readjusted everything and chrono'd some loads today, looks like things are good to go. I just don't understand how the powder measure/belling station could move so much, at least a full turn down.

I think of all the units available the Frankford Aresenal is the best value going. It does a superb job, and I run mine a lot. Usually 32 lbs total loaded weight with water, brass and soap. That's 9mm right to the neck.

oooohhh

So I'm a nice guy, I let my neighbor and good friend use my press while I am gone on long trips, he knows how to use my 1050 almost as well as I do, however on this last trip, something weird happened. I had purchased a new powder measure body recently to replace one I had broken (long dumb story), and once mounted it discovered the flare on the cases while getting powder, was way too much. So adjusted that, at the same time I made a point of adjusting all the other dies, making sure everything was as perfect as possible, cleaning them all etc. I then ran 5000 rounds in one sitting, with zero issues, and the ammo performed great in practice over the next couple of weeks. However, whilst I was over in Europe for 9 weeks my friend came over to water my gardens and load on the press and he ran into some issues. Using my brass (he cleans his and just adds to my buckets) he immediately had issues with so much flare it was splitting cases. Apparently the lock nut on the powder drop was loose, and needed to be tightened, but also the drop was too low and causing the super flare. So he backed that off and tightened it down. Then the Lee FCD was also loose, so much so, it was moving during the crimp process, so he tightened i up as it's lock nut had also come loose. He then loaded a few thousand rounds and was done. He sent me a text telling me all the issues he had and I was puzzled. So, I come home Tuesday night and check out my press, it's still flaring too much, the FCD needs actually be completely reset and it was almost impossible to undo the lock nut. I had to turn the powder measure drop tube one complete revolution counter clockwise to get the flare right as well. So, what the hell? Do I have a gremlin that went in and loosened stuff? I cannot see how, even with a loose nut, the powder measure drop could turn during loading and increase flare, when trying to turn it by hand, I have to remove the powder measure to get it to move. Same goes the Lee Die, it's got an O'ring on it that keeps it tight and locked to the press. I am totally mystified about this, I seriously think someone has keys to my house that I don't know about, and an alarm code, and is messing with my setup. Because none of it makes sense to me. Any ideas guys, have any of you experienced similar?

wet tumbling still does a better job of cleaning the cases and reducing lead exposure. Nothing else comes close.

The Frankford Arsenal wet tumblers are the best deal on the market. Cheaper than the Thumbler and holds more cases. I too will never go back to dry tumbling after my first try with wet. Sure it's a tad more work, maybe an extra 5 minutes per batch. But I can do almost 1500 cases at a time, and they come out looking better than new. I don't inhale any crap from the dry method anymore, and I get cases so shiny and clean I barely need to lube them.. Never ever again will I use dry tumbling.

I use a Redding Micrometer seating die on my 1050 followed by a Lee (can't believe I admit it) Factory Crimp Die. As much as I hate Lee products, that FCD is the best thing ever. I don't understand why Dillon or Redding doesn't make a nicer version of it. I'd love to have a thimble like my Redding seating die has for adjusting crimp. I also use an RCBS sizing die for decapping, although it's been modified to take a Dillon decapping unit. I prefer the way the RCBS sizes the cases over Dillon. In fact the only thing left threaded into any of the stations that is Dillon is the powder measure and the die above the swaging station. If someone made that Swaging station die flare the cases while being swaged I'd buy one. I hate flaring in the powder station. I just had to replace the powder measure on my 650 due to it cracking.

I have 100lbs of Tightgroup sitting on my shelves. Brought 400lbs in sold 300lbs of it to my students, kept 100 for myself.

more info on this primer bar would be great. Pics etc

damnit! I wanted so bad to find something wrong in your amazing kit, but of course, there isn't anything lol. I really wish I had someone like you in my neighborhood...the cool stuff that could be put together would be amazing.

I find using laundry detergent works better than any dishwashing detergent. Less rinsing needed. I also use Jet Dry instead of Lemi Shine.

Is it just me or is there a typo on your PLC display? shouldn't it read "Primers" not "Trimers"?

I use 5lbs of pins and 20lbs or brass with laundry detergent and Lemi Shine or Jet Dry, much less rinsing with laundry detergent.

The first time I saw Jerry's video on cleaning cases I was surprised he didn't use stainless media.

That's an RL? Does the arm hit the base you've made? I found I had to set my press off the bench slightly with it's mounting plate and cut a notch in the plate as well

You did the cut at the back of the base to allow it to run completely through? I think Angus did a similar mod. Curious as to what that motor cost. Also curious as to waht it would take to convert it back to a manual press for loading? Oh, anyone have a pic of what the swaging rod should look like in new or good condition, I think mine is worn out.