slavex

this was brass that had sat in a bucket of water for probably close to a year. there was also some other brass mixed in (the shiny-ish stuff). I don't think I would have gotten it as nice on the first pass even if I'd only filled the FART 1/2 way. I normally fill to the neck and have no issues with my range brass, but then again it's not that dirty really. I am probably going to put less in from now on though, but not 50% or anything, unless it's really nasty stuff I just wanted to show that it's not necessary to put a ton of ingredients in the water like some people are doing. That's the worst brass I've ever tried cleaning and it came out fine with my normal amount of stuff.

this shows my worst brass going through two washes. I was initially happy with the how it first came out, good enough for practice brass. But then processed it as I was bored and ran it again, in half the amount of brass per load, but same mix of ingredients; hot water, 1tblspn Laundry detergent (liquid), 1/4 teaspoon lemishine. Initial run was FART loaded right to the bottom of the neck with brass, second time was half full. first run was 2 hours, second run was 2 hours

I thought maybe some tritium could be added to really make them glow

I've had a few cases with two pins stuck in the flash hole inside the case out of hundreds of thousands run. annoying for sure. the cases were not deprimed. we could always say FART stands for Frankford ARsenal Tumbler and keep the whole wet/dry FART thing going.....

produces less shine? I triple cleaned brass when I dry tumbled, and thought I had bright shiny cases, until I wet tumbled and found out how wrong I was.

Anyone make such a thing for 223? Or is it just universal decapping dies that might have such a thing?

whoops, got the name wrong lol, Anthony is who I was talking with and he's replied, spam filter snagged my emails. Many thanks

I ordered my unit from Ken at Wild West Shooting in Alberta Canada, not from you guys. He'd ordered from you at SHOT. I had been talking with Mark via email but haven't heard back from him in ages. I'm in Europe for matches until the 17th of December so no rush on contacting me.

Unless someone has all the parts just sitting there, I don't know how $145 is too much to spend on buying a FART. It's just not worth the effort

I don't deprime because I don't want to waste the time, I also don't care if the primer pockets are dirty. The main reason is so that I don't have the dust to deal with, second is I also want clean fingers when I load my mags. Wet tumbling is faster than dry and produces a better case. That I have to dry it in my oven or in front of my fireplace if it's on, is not a hassle to me at all. It doesn't darken my cases doing that, not that I'd care if it did. wet tumbling is much cleaner and simpler than dry tumbling and doesn't produce the mess dry does.

You can wet tumble and run through the press almost immediately after, but you'll want to make sure your dies are sprayed with WD40 or something after. depriming isn't necessary before wet tumbling, if you've got the time and gear, do it, otherwise just make sure to dry the cases properly. 30 minutes in the oven does it for me

you must have the worlds worst water dude, I've got cases that were done 6 months ago and they look as shiny as ones done 3 weeks ago

the above media separator is the best solution to rinsing brass and getting the pins out. I have one with a drain hole in the side of the bottom basin with a valve on it and the top portion has a quick connect for a hose from my laundry sink tap.

Question, Why, after calibration, when Run is pressed, does my unit only do a single cycle? Sometimes only a half cycle as well (that is new). I have to press Stop, and then Run again to get it going in repeat cycles. This also often happens after topping up the primers and hitting Run again

I use the hottest water I can get from my tank, no more than an hour with the same mixture as RDA. Without pins the outside is super shiny inside is dirty. With pins outside is super shiny and so is inside. I also rinse with hot water and then dry in an oven

I bent the hanger for the akro bin back towards the left so that now my akro bin hangs facing me with the opening, much easier to pull ammo from it as the machine runs and gauge it.

did anyone watch the video on that Iron Press? They totally ripped off Black Sabbath with the riff they used. Just different enough to probably stop a lawsuit, but so obvious too. That is lame.

I purposely didn't reply to this thread as I saw a lot of great advice being given, I was just waiting to see how long it took you get the MBF. Glad to see you are liking it. Remember to keep the nose guide clean, or you'll get upside down bullets. I occasionally blow the whole thing out with air to get all the crap out.

it would be impossible for there to not be drag on the downstroke as that pin is what locates the slide. so drag is a byproduct of that.

I wonder if this is the thunk I get now and then? I also wonder if it is what has caused the odd jam now and then?

Ok, interesting, I will take some photos when I get a chance to show what I am talking about. You'd previously mentioned the dowel pins were 5/8 in length, did you mean the ones in the caged transmission bearing because the ones I have in the other 1050 are a lot longer than that.

The ammobot is nowhere near the same thing. Watch the videos, look at the control systems, the Mk7 is a huge step up.

Thanks for that. What about the input shaft? My main press apparently has a Super 1050 length shaft, which confused the techs on the phone last time I called.

yeah that's easy to do if you're around a phone during operating hours. I figured there'd be some history buffs here. Perhaps I was wrong.

someone needs to invent a feeding die that also partially or completely seats the bullet, and I mean just a die, not a whole toolhead like that one JMOrris uses.