bountyhunter

Low left for a rightie or low right for a leftie is almost always from yanking the trigger. I'm told that area of the pie chart will be renamed in my honor after my death.....

There's a speed loader that makes it a snap. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/721154/hks-magazine-speedloader-colt-ruger-and-s-and-w-single-stack-9mm-45-acp-6-to-10-round

Sounds like a fit issue with the ratchets. They have to be fitted individually in a process called balancing so they all carry up the same. SW used to do this on new guns back when they had gunsmiths. These days, I would assume any new SW gun has fit problems depending on how many bananas the min wage monkeys had on the day they built the gun. Not sure when yours was built. A gunsmith should be able to fix this easily so that all the cylinder positions feel about the same and none are binding. It sounds like the tightness occurs after the cylinder locks and the hand has to slide by the ratchet. Some gunsmiths just stone the hand edge to make it narrower but it's much better (but takes more time) if the ratchets are fitted so they are all the same and the hand width is perfect so it has zero clearance but doesn't bind.

Slide Glide mix with FP-10. Adjust ratio based on ambient temp.

Sounds like EMI from the ballast. I had one in the kitchen ceiling that used to make the TV buzz before the age of digital TV. Chuck the light.

+1 I think that is true for most people.

I use the left hand so that I don't have to shift the gun in my right hand grip.

Hard to diagnose. The XD also has the internal pivoting lever firing pin blocking safety. I would want to examine the striker closely and check for impact dings. If the FP safety plunger is not fully lifting out of the way, you will get unreliable ignition.

We shoot left to right because we are taught to read that way so our brains are most comfortable scanning in that direction.

Just be careful. If you are over 40, these kinds of exercises can give you tendonitis really quickly. Guess how I learned that. Start VERY slowly and increase gradually over time.

There is a distortion error as you move the dot toward the edges of the field but it is typically a small error. The dots I bought had specs for that.

That with the KKM and the stock barrel with your ammo. It is most always the ammo. It's happened with both the stock barrel and the KKM barrel. Still puzzled as to why the same piece of ammo would fire just fine the second time I try it? I wonder if maybe banging it into the barrel throat maybe reduced the brass just enough to let it go fully in the second time?

A light primer dent can also be caused by the firing pin blocking safety interfering if the slide is just slightly out of battery. If you take the striker out, you can tell by looking for "dings" in the area of the striker that goes by the plunger. You could also remove the plunger to test and see if the ammo starts firing. But be advised: firing tight ammo is a good way to break and extractor since it is trying to yank out brass that is tightly wedged in the barrel.

CorrectWith a Glock, it typically won't fire if it is even a little bit out of battery. If the round is oversized, it will stop a bit short of going full into the barrel and cause that. It will also be tight to try to remove. A friend of mine who reloads 9mm had to buy a special crimp tool to use on the brass to put the correct taper back on it. The 9mm reloads I have bought over the years ALL have this oversized problem and the severity varies depending on the gun. I ended up buying aftermarket barrels for several of my guns and reaming the throat sufficiently that it could accept the ammo because I had so much of it.

+1 That's the only reliable way to know.

9mm is tapered case so an outside diameter gauge won't catch rounds out of spec. I have had this problem with all the 9mm reloads I have bought. You can usually find a little bulge about 1/3 of the way up from the rim going forward which does not exceed max overall diameter but will jam in the barrel. Way to tell is to take the barrel out and drop the round in and tap it lightly on the backside with your finger, Flip the barrel upside down and see if it stays in the barrel. If so, it is "corking" because it's oversized. FYI: a high quality barrel does it worse because the throat is tighter than a typical gun designed to shoot crappy ammo like a CZ.

My Para 1640 uses a non standard guide rod/reverse bushing. Diameter is a bit larger than standard.

When you said: "fired one shot and had to start "flicking the trigger" to get it to reset." Do you mean the trigger does not come forward far enough on it's own spring pressure to get to the reset point? If so, that's different. Sounds like the trigger bar may be dragging on something or some component is dragging just enough to keep it from moving freely. As I recall, this trigger design has the goofy trigger safety and that piece could drag a little as the trigger tries to move forward. Could try wrapping some tape around that and see if it improves. Some aftermarket trigger bars have "file points" for fitting to set overtravel and reset travel points. I wonder if maybe yours needs tweaking.

Sellier + Belott used to be great, I haven't seen them in years.

Mine did that after I installed the aftermarket trigger bar. When you hold the trigger as firing, it slightly puts a side torque on the sear and holds it released so that the striker spring does not reset when the slide cycles. You repull the trigger and nothing because the striker did not 'cock" on the cycling of the slide. I had to shave the sides of the sear slightly to keep it from binding. Take the slide off and hold the trigger firmly and see if the sear is still free to move with the trigger tightly pulled. If it's not, that's the culprit.

Yeah, I realize screwing people is the heart of capitalism. It's just slimy when the US mint does it and uses patriotism as the hook.

Yeah, I saw that but that wasn't the price at the time. It was about $20. The mint may sell them off for that at wholesale but they are resold at whatever they want to mark up to. I don't think so. Maybe.

My new 226 would never lock back on last round for the first few hundred rounds fired. After it broke in, all problems went away.

I couldn't tell the caliber from the pictures? Feed problems on a 1911 can usually be traced to the extractor too tight, feed ramp needs some shaping/smoothing, barrel throat needs smoothing. That is assuming the magazines aren't causing it which they sometimes do. Reviewed the video: is it failing too extract the fired brass? If so, that means it's either the extractor problem or the throat is too tight. The lower video seemed to show it extracted. Is the round loading up hitting the bottom of the feed ramp and jamming?

Yeah, I love UPS. I bought an old MAC computer off ebay for about $50 and the seller wanted to use the option where UPS packs it.... which cost about $80..... to make sure it wouldn't be damaged. Seemed ridiculous but I paid for it. Package arrived crushed, computer was destroyed. Then I spent a couple of months fighting with UPS to get my money because UPS (the company) refused to pay because each station is an independent contractor. The company claimed that it must have been packed wrong or it would not have been damaged and the store claimed somebody drove a truck over it, which is what it looked like to me. Anyway, finally got some of my money back and learned a lesson about UPS.