bountyhunter

try the scotch tape strip on the shooting glasses to block the left eye when sighting and see where the POI is.

I noticed similar with my bullseye gun which was a Ruger Mk II (.22) using iron sights. When doing the left eye squint single eye sighting (focused on sights), the POI would vary slightly like maybe 2" at 25 yards compared to shooting with both eyes open and target focused. I believe it's because the sight picture is slightly different. Shooting both methods gave very consistent POI, but it was slightly different.

In most cases, having a new top end built up, fitted and finished to a 1911 costs as much as a good used gun of the same variety.

You can make a cheaper captive recoil system for a 1911 by using a full length guide rod with drilled takedown hole which captures the spring using a paper clip tool. I have them in all my 1911's, makes life so much easier.

Norecoil.com makes a bunch of them. I think I use them in Beretta 92, SIG 226, Springfield XD, Glock 35. They also make one for a 1911. http://www.norecoil.com/abuffer.htm

A couple of months ago in our local speed shooting league, we were all at low ready and the RO had said "Standbye" and was dragging out time to the fire command when from my left I hear one wimpy little: "TAT" as one of the guys with a .22 had anticipated the fire command. Before anybody said anything I called out: "I didn't hear a thing!" He got DQ'd anyway....

The only thing to do at that point is look the RO right in the eye and say: "I meant to do that."

Wondering if the thickness of the plating might be enough to make the barrel/cylinder/crane assembly too tight if you plated the cylinder and extractor? It's basically a zero tolerance fit for end shake.

There are a lot of "dual rate" recoil reducer systems around. I have about four or five of the norecoil.com variety, they make the same claim about reducing recoil. The theory is by having a softer spring rate coming out of battery, it reduces the peak recoil impulse. Maybe, but the most dominant spring force unlocking from battery is the hammer spring which the slide has to deflect going back as it cocks the hammer so the recoil spring is a secondary effect. I have tried the "recoil reducers" on about five different autos and never felt any difference. I still use them because they also stop slide travel from reaching the frame which eliminates frame battering. IMO, they are worth it for that feature as well as holding the recoil spring captive which makes assembly easier. As for decreasing recoil or muzzle flip, I think that effect is placebo. I have not seen that to be true. YMMV http://www.norecoil.com/ FRAME SAVING RECOIL BUFFERS What they do... All buffer systems are heat treated 416 stainless steel and effectivly reduce felt recoil 40-50% and, whenever recoil is lowered in a semi-automatic pistol, muzzle climb or "jump" is also reduced allowing for faster target reaquisition, less shooter fatigue and better control.

Sorry to hear about the tragedy. Cancer really is the scourge of the earth. Mesothelioma ended my dad's life back in 1990. It is horrible how fast the disease progresses, but sometimes that is how it runs. good luck

Yep. Showed up really obviously when I first tried a red dot sighter.... you can't help but notice when you pull and the dot jumps. With iron sights, harder to notice the sights jump when they move.

Might want to try a Meritt sighter (peep hole sighter) it helps focus the target and sight better at the same time. I have been using one for about 2o years, they do help.

I guess I'm not one of those.... That finger is exerting a force that leans more to the weak side, which means other parts of the grip are engaging to balance against it. Obviously, some people shoot well that way. I tried it and never liked it. whatever works is right for whoever it works for. BTW: the grips is the first two posts are quite different. The first one is more "underneath" support and the second image looks more like a guide wire on a TV mast.... I would think the first one would be easier to keep balanced. Not to state the obvious, but: the second image shows that his hand is too long for the grip and he is riding it up so the index finger gets shoved up higher. Maybe if the grip was longer, he would be using a standard grip?

Do you mean hard chrome as a coating applied to carbon steel (?) The main advantage of stainless is that it doesn't rust as readily as carbon, but stainless can rust. Also, there are hundreds of different formulae for stainless optimized for different characteristics. Some rust quite badly, others not so much. Gun makers generally have to vary the formulae for the stainless used between frame and slide to prevent galling, another problem stainless can have. Of all the finishes for carbon steel, I think hard chrome is the best for durability. Way better than bluing.

Yep. If it's an FLGR with a reverse bushing they are notorious for putting dents in the ceiling. Especially if it's a .40 with an 18# recoil spring.... couldn't pay me enough to fight that stupid bushing again. I drill take down holes in the FLGR if they don't come with them. makes life easier.

A wise man once told me, the reliability of a 1911 is inversely proportional to it's barrel length.

When all around you are in panic, remain calm and select someone to blame.

Never helped me. Unbalances the grip with a rotational force.

Dumb question: is the 9mm ammo reload? If so, you could have cases out of spec that jam in the barrel throat. I couldn't count how many of those I have seen that jam just about any gun. If the ammo is in spec, it should extract.

I wouldn't be surprised if the extractor was set tight. The typical extractor takes a set and loses tension after the initial adjustment so they might be setting tight. It's easy to check.

I have seen this problem so many times with 10 round mags. many of them are designed so tight that the tenth round can barely be forced in.... which means that it is IMPOSSIBLE to insert it into the gun with the slide forward since the top round has no give. I have seen this even on high quality MEC GAR mags made for guns like CZ and Browning. The factory just blew it on the magazine design. Interestingly, the aftermarket 10 round mags typically don't have the problem: they leave a little room so the tenth round can give enough to insert it under the closed slide.I wouldn't blame the factories for this fault of 10 rd mags. First, they were forced to create such mags because of the stupid laws passed by many states including mine. Second, these mags were not designed with competitors in mind, where we'll load a new mag in the gun with one in the chamber still. Plus they wouldn't want any space in the mag, that if tolerances were off, someone might be able to force in an 11th round.I still say they screwed up. I've spent a LOT of time tuning mags and screwing with them and there really is no trick to getting them right so that they only hold ten but still have some yield. In fact, the ones made right hold about "10 1/2" which means you can easily load ten and push the stack down about 1/2 round space but impossible to get another round in (not even close). Many of the new mags are so tight that it's just impossible to load ten and ten insert the mag on a closed slide which is just stupid. There is a solution in cases where the same gun is made in multiple calibers and you can buy the ten round magazine of the next larger caliber...... and modify it for your caliber. In those cases, they hold ten rounds real easily.... and usually about four more. Consult local laws before attempting.

The age old remedy was something called colchicene: http://arthritis.about.com/od/colchicine/a/gout_medication.htm If all else fails?

I have seen this problem so many times with 10 round mags. many of them are designed so tight that the tenth round can barely be forced in.... which means that it is IMPOSSIBLE to insert it into the gun with the slide forward since the top round has no give. I have seen this even on high quality MEC GAR mags made for guns like CZ and Browning. The factory just blew it on the magazine design. Interestingly, the aftermarket 10 round mags typically don't have the problem: they leave a little room so the tenth round can give enough to insert it under the closed slide.

If you insist on smoothing that ramp, get a small wooden dowel of suitable diameter (Home Depot sells an assortment) and wrap some #600 paper around it and sand up and down by hand. Don't go nuts with it, stay parallel to the ramp angle.

The golden rule of gunsmithing is that the Dremel should be in the closet with a bowling ball set on it before any gunsmithing begins. I think it was the old John Wayne movie were he looked at some bad guy and said "He killed more men than smallpox!" I think Dremels have screwed up more guns than any other cause.