bountyhunter

We've all pimped a gun up ay one time.... I recall way back when I "mirror polished" the flat sides of the trigger and hammer on a SW nickel revolver because the mottley blue color of those parts looked so ugly to me. I suspect SW purists are still carrying a rope with my name on it.... but make it look beautiful to you.

Interesting. Never heard of anybody bluing stainless, although SIG has a black nitride type finish they use to black their stainless guns.

Some stainless formulae are magnetic, though typically not strongly so.

I don't know if they will rust over night, but acids and salts from sweat will do it over time since your hands ride on the controls.

No. That's why they are blued or plated, because they need that to keep them from rusting. Carbon steel is actually better than stainless in most respects (tensile strength, hardness, does not gall) but stainless is less prone to rust. I prefer to have internal parts made from good carbon (tool) steel. If you do polish the coating off that does make them more likely to rust.

I have the reverse phenomenon: shoot just about any 1911 type gun better than any polymer. I'll wager you need to get the hang of how the new trigger breaks.

I love the smell of scorched skin in the morning..... it smells like bacon.

Correct. It lets the slide pull slightly out of battery. I bought one of the "dual rate" captive recoil spring systems for my G35 and noticed the slide moved slightly OB when I pulled the trigger. The light recoil spring rate at lockup position was not quite strong enough to keep it locked up. Mine still fired, but I chucked that recoil spring when I noticed it moving OB. Does not do it with the stock recoil spring.

A good method for cleaning stubborn residue from the bore WITHOUT dragging any metal through is to use a nylon bore brush dipped in auto chrome polish. That really makes the bore shine.

Make sure it is fully going into battery. Too light on the recoil spring and it may stop short, then the firing pin safety can drag on the FP and give you light strikes.

And that's exactly what will eliminate the nosedive problem. 9mm is a tapered case so the more there are stacked up, the more likely it is for the top round to go nose down.

No.

+1 Same thing I see. Ten stock 9mm bullets stacked vertically in a SS mag just don't like to feed right. Have no problem with the 9 round mags or the ten round mags loaded with 9 rounds.... but ten rounds just doesn't like to feed without nosediving the top round.

For same barrel length, the 686 will weigh more than a 66 because the 66 is the smaller K frame gun and the 686 is the larger L frame. I have many 66's and do like them better. I think they fit my hand and balance perfectly, the 686 is a shade large and higher bore axis. The 686 is better for shooting a lot of magnums, the K frames like 66 are magnum rated but not all the time.

I have a 35 and I bought the EFK 9mm conversion barrel. I shoot factory 115 FMJ ammo in it. I use the same recoil spring as Glock specified same spring for both the 34 and 35 (at least that's what I read) so I just kept using the same recoil spring. I kept the same extractor/ejector and it seemed to work fine.

No. I got a very good trigger function (minimal pretravel, no overtravel)but not with all working safeties. The Glock "design" is to use a bump on the trigger bar to raise the firing pin safety plunger up which means ANY modification that changes either the front to rear or vertical position of the trigger bar when it releases the striker, will mean that safety may not work right. Guess how I learned that...... light strike misfires. I assume if you had a way to build up metal on that bump and machine it to match exactly what the new trigger bar position was it might work.... I guess I'm not smart enough?

I just went in and got my Trojan and loaded a mag with some snap caps just to see how much it looked like this picture as I let the slide come forward: the round shown above is in just about exactly the same place as mine. However, as I look at the picture, the chamber throat has a very sharp edge at the top of the feed ramp and mine was (many years ago) rounded over a bit at that area so it won't let a bullet nose stop in contact with it.... it jumps right in. Maybe you have more than one issue: the ramp may need polishing and rounding over at the top, but if you have rounds doing the nosedive thing, that's a magazine or ammo issue. I think any decent gunsmith who could wrap his hands around the gun should be able to fix this pretty well.

I believe recoil should be 13# or maybe a shade higher if hot ammo.STI puts in a 10 pound spring in 9mm 5" guns. I use a 12# in my .40 major. From STI site: http://www.stiguns.com/resources/faq/ Q: What is the recoil spring weight in my gun? A: Compensated pistols 8 pounds 5″ 9mm guns 10 pounds 5″ .40 S&W guns 14 pounds 5″ .45 ACP guns 18 pounds 6″ 9mm guns 8 pounds 6″ .40 S&W guns 12 pounds 6″ .45 ACP guns 14 pounds Then they have changed their tune since I bought my 9mm Trojan 5" back in 1995. It definitely came with a 12# spring from STI. And I have used either 12 or 13# for the entire life of the gun (maybe 30k rounds fired). The Wolff spring page shows the recommended values that Colt has for their 5" 1911. They list 14# for 9mm/.38S. IMHO, a 10# spring is too light especially if shooting the 124 grain ammo which would have more recoil than 115 gr factory ammo. Just my opinion.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/733842/weigand-extractor-tension-gage-set-semi-automatic-pistol-with-exposed-extractor Weigand makes gauges for measuring extractor tension, used along with an accurate trigger pull gauge device. Slide the brass gauge up the breech face into the same position the roud would be. Then pull down using the trigger pull gauge and measure the force it takes to pull the gauge out from under the extractor. I keep my 9mm Trojan set at about 15 - 20 Ounces.

I believe recoil should be 13# or maybe a shade higher if hot ammo.

Not taking it the wrong way, there is a difference though. At the range I never slam the mags in like at a match and I never fully load the mags either, typically no more than five rounds at once. I think that makes the difference.Snap caps do not cycle like actual ammo. On a cranky feeder, you have to isolate where the hang up is. In such a case, I might recommend: Fill magazine with whatever ammo you use and "slow cycle" ammo through by hand and see where you feel drag. Keep muzzle safe and be careful to not touch trigger. You should be able to see if there is drag when the rim tries to go up under the extractor or if it is dragging coming out of the magazine feed lips or just brick walling on the feed ramp. I did have one gun (Para) where the barrel was cut so that the feed ramp was just too high and too steep and it would not feed, I ended up recutting the feed ramp to lower the entry but you shouldn't have to. You should be able to figure out why the feed is hanging up. Another suggestion: You MIGHT be able to get the nose of the round to ride a shade higher in the mag by opening up the feed lip spacing a touch. may help.

I have a 9mm Trojan which feeds perfectly. 9mm single stack mags are prone to nose dive feeding because the 9mm case is tapered, not straight like .40 and .45. One mag maker built a "mini feed ramp" into the front edge of the mag shell on the 9mm mags to keep the nose of the round up and improve feeding. One obvious cause of nose dive is weak mag springs. Also: are these 9mm mags or .38S mags modified? You might try some actual 9mm mags (with no spacer) and see if they feed better since that is what it's designed to use. All of mine are Mec Gar 9mm and have no problems but they are 9 round magazines. I shoot factory 115 FMJ ammo like winchester white box and sellier and bellott and never have an issue. It is possible that yours might benefit from having the top of the feed ramp rounded over a shade where it goes into the throat, but do that LAST as barrel steel can not be replaced after it is removed. make sure you have a proper 9mm extractor and that the lower edge of the extractor lip is "radiused" to allow smooth feeding up. Changing the mag catch might make the mag ride higher in the frame which MIGHT help. Might try smoothing the inside edges of the feed lips on the mags so the round can slide out easier.

somebody posted these images of how they lightened a Glock striker.

Have seen some Glock strikers that were aggressively "lightened" to increase strike energy. It works, only concern is compromising strength of the piece.

Check extractor tension. Maybe the oil increases slide velocity enough to make it extract, but it still sounds like an extractor issue. The barrel throat may be a bit tight and need a light polish. I assume Wilson still sells the gauges used to measure extractor tension. You need to keep it at about 15 - 20 ounces. Inspect the extractor tip under a glass to make sure the hook is square and sharp. Dumb idea: make sure you have the 9mm/38S extractor which is different than the .40/.45 extractor.