bountyhunter

Sometimes Numrich has stuff that's out of stock at SW.

I put a stopwatch on the video that came with my Para 1640 that was being fired by Todd jarret and the time between shots on target (with a reload in between) was around one second flat. That is a double stack 1911.

I shoot in a speed league where the ( ) running it REQUIRE that the reloads be done empty with slide locked back to make sure nobody is "manipulating" a loaded gun. Their league, their rules.

can you add a magwell onto the bottom of the 1911 or is that not allowed? I used a different technique on the SS 1911 reload compared to an auto with a tapered (double stack) magazine. You rotate the bottom of the grip of the 1911 up until you can see straight in the opening and put two fingers on the front and back of the magazine as you WATCH it go in. With a typical double stack gun, I don't even rotate the grip. I just stuff it in "blind" from below without seeing the mag opening. To answer: "can I reasonably expect SLRs to be as fast with a single-stack 1911 as with a G17/34?" I think yes if you work on it enough. I saw a reload by Rob Leatham on a SS 1911 that was perfect and fast so it is doable. I think you need a more careful technique, more focus and more precision.

I prefer to use $2 bills and $1 coins I started a small commotion at jack in The Box when I paid with a $2 bill..... there is no drawer in the cash register for that. It's one, five, ten and twenty. They eventually put it in the one dollar slot.

The coating on the aluminum frame is to prevent corrosion. I believe it is some kind of urethane clear coat and I have read many posts about how poorly it holds up to wear. In some cases it cracks off in large chunks. SW used to refinish them under warranty but I don't know if they still do. Birchwood Casey makes a chemical used to "blacken" aluminum which I have used and it works pretty well, not sure if it works on the scandium alloy.

The gun better have a pivoting extractor or you will not have reliable extraction. I have four different .40SW autos with 9mm conversion barrels and the one that doesn't extract reliably is the Springfield XD which has an extractor that is basically fixed position similar to stock 1911. As the brass pulls out of the barrel, it loses extractor tension and slips the rim sometimes. In designs where the extractor pivots farther (like Glock, Beretta, SIG and most autos) the extractor can pivot far enough to keep the 9mm rim pinned to the wider breech edge as it extracts.

That seems to prove the light strike problem is not due to FP length. There are some other things to check: 1) cylinder end shake can cause light strikes. 2) Reduced main spring force. Has the strain screw been cut? Is the tip wearing down? A little change there can cause light strikes. It sounds like maybe the gun was marginal on ignition all along and it is just now showing up possibly due to ammo tolerance. This happens a lot with guns tweaked up to get the lightest possible trigger pull.

It honestly varies by magazine design. I remember back when I was tuning some of mine I did a "survey" to get feed lip spacing values across about a dozen 9mm mag types. Don't remember the values. If you spread the lips a bit you can get problems if the round rides too high. You have a specific problem?

+1 but I used the GOOP super urethane glue that's strong enough to glue shoe soles back on.

Maybe but I am skeptical. IMHO, it sounds like a cover story for where all the ammo went that we are supplying to the insurgent forces in places like Syria. "Guess we know where all the components are going........." All those bullets being shot have to come from somewhere and the Tooth fairy ain't bringing them.

You may need to reface the inside of the cylinder where the end of the crane tube rubs on it as it may have worn a groove into the inside surface of the cylinder. Why that matters is the end shake washers match the outside of the crane tube but not the inside edge which means the washers don't fit into the groove cut into the metal and will cause it to bind up.

Target for sure. Then just move the dot until it is where you are looking.

Does the cylinder have excessive endsake? Looks like it is battering against the recoil shield. It also looks like the scandium aluminum frame just wasn't up to the job. Hard to believe SW would look at that and decide it doesn't need fixing.

You find the cost of freedom Buried in the ground. If you died for freedom Come lay your body down. Mother Earth will swallow you and never make a sound. You find the cost of freedom Buried in the ground. CSN+Y

I had a 6" top end built up for an STI Trojan some years back and it was about 1200. I assume an Eagle would be more.

"fitted"? How? Please explain what was done to "fit" the hammers and triggers. I believe the Kuhnhausen manual goes into detail about fitting. At minimum, there is a delicate fit process on the DA sear that sometimes requires removal of metal from the hammer in the area below the SA cocking notch to get a proper "handoff" when the hammer motion transitions from being lifted by the trigger beak to the DA sear. Other fits are the SA sear notch itself. I remember having a long conversation with one of the gunsmiths at SW about fitting hammers and sears back in the mid 90's. Bottom line, the rule of thumb is that if you drop in hammers and sears without fitting it's a maybe go maybe not proposition. If the hammer/trigger are dropped in as a set from an identical model, you have your best chance. If parts are swapped at random, look out. The physical position of the boss pins in the frame that thins mount on have tolerances between guns. It's similar to the "drop in" kits for 1911 guns that have sears and hammers: some work OK, many don't because the spacing is critical but the tolerances sometimes are not tight enough. Here is one random story about a guy who "dropped in" a new hammer: http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/236761-effect-fitting-da-hammer-sear-timing.html "Did a bit of planned smithing on two of my revolvers this morning. Item one was to replace the Target width hammer on my 610-3 with a 0.400 service width hammer. Item two was to replace both the hammer and trigger in my 625 JM with blued MIM parts in 0.400 widths. Because of this I had purchased 2 seperate 0.400 inch service width hammer assemblies which included the DA sear. These parts come with a sharp tip on the sear where it engages the DA sear step on the trigger and this tip must be fitted to the trigger in order for the trigger to reset consistently. Basically, if you leave the Sear on the hammer sharp you'll find that the trigger won't reset on every return. After spending some time studying how the lockwork functions in double action I realized that if this sear tip is chamfered too much it will allow the hammer to release a touch earlier in the trigger stroke. So, in fitting the hammer sear to the trigger I was careful to only chamfer the tip to the point where the trigger was resetting properly and not go any further. The end result is that the chamfer is about 0.010 narrower than the chamfer on the factory supplied hammer sear. Testing has revealed that my 625 JM now drops the cylinder stop just a bit earlier in relation to the hammer fall than it did as set up by the factory. What is actually happening is that the sear is releasing the hammer a hair later in it's stroke however the effect is the stop drops a bit earlier. It's not a lot and likely not enough to matter one bit, however it does point that there are "tuning points" in the lockwork that can effect the timing. Quite simply, if you're fitting a new hammer sear to the trigger you can cause "late" timing if you go too far."

Both parents at Arlington. The greatest generation is passing away.

Usually buying a complete top end for an auto from the factory costs more than a good used gun.

Put a red dot sight on the gun and you'll be shocked at how much the dot jumps when you pull the trigger. At least I was.

Well...... hammers and triggers are fitted pieces. At least, on the older guns they certainly were fitted. maybe the new MIM parts hold tolerance so tight they no longer fit them (?)

Then I wonder how the pin could work any different than stock. Unless it is reduced mass like titanium to get more velocity? Bottom line, the bullet's primer stops the forward motion of the firing pin so as long as it has enough forward travel range to fully dent the primer, anything more than that is never going to be used.

Check the cylinder for end shake. Measure barrel to cylinder gap with the cylinder pushed forward and pulled back. If the end shake is more than about .001", it can affect ignition as the cylinder moves when the round is struck which absorbs a small bit of the hammers energy. Since you are clearly dialing down for lightest trigger pull, that can change your ignition. As for extended firing pins: I tested them and found they did not improve ignition on my guns compared to a proper SW firing pin (length .495" as I recall). There were some defective SW pins made but a proper one will work just fine. Some of the aftermarket pins drag in the firing pin channel, make sure yours slides freely. They are also prone to breaking.

Here is the chart. The low left area (for right hand) is designated for jerking/slapping the trigger. I spent so much time there they used to charge me rent. For left hand shooter, reverse image along vertical center axis.

Here you go: https://practicaltacticaltraining.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Screen-shot-2011-05-04-at-7.32.36-PM.png