bountyhunter

Yeah, at the time (1976) I thought they were an anniversary set being issued to commemorate the 200 year anniversary. Didn't figure the mint would still be dumping them into circulation almost forty years later....... tends to drive the price down. I never figured the return would pay for my retirement, but it's pretty slimy when the US mint uses "patriotism" as the scam to rip off people.

Once upon a time, a young kid who didn't know any better (me) bought some "special coin sets" to honor America back in 1976. "To capture the bicentennial spirit, three coins in the set are dual dated 1776-1976." It was s set of silver dollar, half dollar and quarter. Imagine my surprise to see this "limited edition one time only set" still being produced and sold. And, BTW, they are worth about half what YOU will pay for them. Yes, it turns out, anytime they want to make more money they can just stamp more and sell them. There are numerous private mints in the US, and they often do commemorative sets. By law, they have to state how many will be made to prevent them from committing a fraud where they sell sets as rare when, in fact, they will print tons of them. There is one mint which is not bound by that law... say it with me... the US mint. So they routinely rip people off by selling sets worth far less than price because they over produce them. Now you know. I'll attach an image of the set I am referring to, as well as the actual market value from a coin reference (listed on right most value in table). The table also shows that nearly four million had been made. Four million and counting? rare they ain't..... needless to say, you don't want to buy commemorative issues from the US Mint unless you just like flushing money down the crapper by spending $50 for a $24 coin set. http://coins.about.com/library/US-coin-values/bl-US0000-Modern-US-Proof-set-Values.htm

I would guess disconnector problem. If you lock the slide back and drop it on empty chamber with finger OFF trigger does the hammer follow? A flaky sear/hammer hook will usually follow then. If it does NOT but then does follow with a slide drop on empty chamber with trigger pulled, I still vote for disconnector.

why does it look like somebody tried to reshape it with a pair of vice grips that thing is jacked up Can't see in the photo but the chrome plating on it is pristine all over, even in the "ragged" areas so it was not a matter of being bashed, crushed or even fracturing under stress after manufacture. It came out of the mold that way.

I am not a rabid MIM hater, it's a viable process for specific types of parts.... assuming some kind of basic QA is applied to the process. A few years back, it was incorrectly reported that the PC guns did not use MIM parts. In fact, they did not use the MIM hammers and triggers but did have some MIM parts including the rebound slide and trigger lever (strut) among others. On my 627, you will see a picture of the trigger lever which shows it is grossly and visibly defective. The end which is supposed to look like a ball did not form, incomplete penetration of slurry into the mold during injection. It was never noticed, it went for chroming and then was installed onto a trigger and put in my gun. The jagged end trashed the "cup" in the rebound slide and gave it a bad trigger pull. But that's what was shipped in the gun. The gun had a lot of other defects, the trigger lever/rebound slide turned out to be the easiest to fix. That is one ugly part. Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I hope S&W made it right, or at least sent you parts. They eventually shipped me one after three weeks. I got sick of waiting and bought the parts from Midway. I don't keep spares on the old trigger levers because they don't use them anymore on the new MIM guns (MIM triggers use a different lever). I have a spare lever now.....

Know what that really meant? They had boxes of triggers and hammers and if the first pair they grabbed didn't work together they tried different ones 'til they got a trigger and hammer that worked together. "Select fit" would be the more correct term. Some parts were "fitted" as in metal removed. Cylinder stops for the pad "height", sears for length and tip contour. Barrels had (and still have) the B/C gap "adjusted" with a file... So, you're saying: "Barrels had (and still have) the B/C gap "adjusted" with a file..." I kind of noticed that on my new 627 (see picture). But I did have a question.... would it have killed the minimum wage idiot hacking away with the file to spend the extra five seconds it would have taken to put a piece of tape on the underside of the top strap before he started butchering my new 627? As for the correct way, quoting Kuhnhausen (page 97): "Barrel to Cylinder Clearance While you can use a file to work down the barrel face, I suggest using a barrel face cutter, pilot, and guide. This tool will cit the barrel face at 90 degrees to the bore centerline."

I'm amazed you're still whining about this. You're right. I should be overjoyed that I special ordered a $1300 POS that arrived needing a buttload of gunsmithing before I could even fire it and then more when I found out the headspace was so under spec the fired brass jammed in the breech face after the second round fired. I don't know what I was thinking when I figured that a so called performance center would actually check a gun before shipping it.

OK, lets try attaching the picture again. This is the trigger lever from my new 627.

I am not a rabid MIM hater, it's a viable process for specific types of parts.... assuming some kind of basic QA is applied to the process. A few years back, it was incorrectly reported that the PC guns did not use MIM parts. In fact, they did not use the MIM hammers and triggers but did have some MIM parts including the rebound slide and trigger lever (strut) among others. On my 627, you will see a picture of the trigger lever which shows it is grossly and visibly defective. The end which is supposed to look like a ball did not form, incomplete penetration of slurry into the mold during injection. It was never noticed, it went for chroming and then was installed onto a trigger and put in my gun. The jagged end trashed the "cup" in the rebound slide and gave it a bad trigger pull. But that's what was shipped in the gun. The gun had a lot of other defects, the trigger lever/rebound slide turned out to be the easiest to fix.

Where the trigger resets the cylinder lock. have you tried installing a new cylinder stop? That's a pretty cheap part and easy to fit.

I recall the Kuhnhausen manual had a warning about "swapping in" either hammers or triggers from gun to gun. They are, or were, fitted parts. Best chances of success are if hammer/triggers are swapped in as a set across guns of the same model.

The problems I have seen on new SW revos generally are: 1) Barrels not set correctly. You see it on the barrel to frame alignment and it requires the rear sight to be cranked to one edge or the other. 2) Hammer dragging the frame showing rubbing on one side, see this a lot. 3) Side plates not fitted so that they are so tight it takes dynamite to get them off. Having to finish the side plate fit is a royal PITA. 4) Head space fit problems, rounds dragging the breech face cause binding. 5) barrel cylinder gap too wide, see this one a lot. 6) Poor lockup, cylinder wobbles too much in lockup.

I have quite a few SW's revos. To be accurate: a couple of the older ones I bought had significant quality problems, so not all of the "oldies" were gems. That said, the new PC 627 I bought about three years back was so bad that I will never buy another new SW gun. Period. IMHO, a $1300 gun from their "performance center" should not be a fixer upper like mine was. Over the years (maybe last 15) I used to check the SW revos that came into our local range and I found a lot of defects. I used to think SW shipped defective guns to California on purpose to punish them for the stupid gun laws here. In reality, I think the poor quality is the result of the "modern" business model which says you basically do away with the skilled people and costly QA and replace it with a lifetime warranty. That way you use the customers to find the dogs and fix them when they come back. My major disappointment was believing that the PC guns were quality made..... and worth the extra money.

+1 The silver ones are flash chromed but they are the older ones made from forged stock (not MIM) and they have not made them in a while. I read that the PC has a stash of them for it's guns but I don't know if they sell them.

Go to Gunsamerica and do a search. That gives a good set of data points on what a gun sells for new and sometimes there are used ones too.

If I recall, the correct (minimum) spacing of clearance at that point with no brass on a standard SW revo is about .064" but you don't usually get dragging problems until it gets down to about .060. If the cylinder has been hacked for moon clips, obviously that changes the clearance spec.

And check the headspace with a full cylinder of fired brass with a feeler gauge ALL THE WAY AROUND THE BREECH FACE. Have seen several that had enough space at the top but narrowed down below.

duplicate

When I was a young man I often wasted time trying to enlighten idiots..... But as I got older, I realized the idiots outnumbered me badly so I gave up.

Yeah, I prety much assumed they were blowing smoke but I hesitate to call the guy a bozo on the off chance somebody made a non-standard 1911 that I never heard of. he kept saying that the "government" model is different (smaller) and that's why it uses a smaller pin. Total BS. Here is one of the replies: "Sir, If you look at the ad the item is only for the government frame models and clones of the government frame model." Basically, they just have the wrong size part in it.

I own a 1640 LDA. RUN, do not walk, in the other direction. The LDA design is the classic case of stuffing 10 pounds of poop in a two pound bag. Too complicated, too many ways to screw up. Some of the internals look like they were stamped out of beer cans. Mine had to go back to Para and they replaced almost every part in the gun from the trigger back. Still has random trigger reset failures.

I actually sent the guy this image (from my Kuhnhausen manual) and he claimed the "government frame" is smaller than the full size and uses a pin with smaller diameter. I thought it was BS but wanted other opinions.

Another guy same complaint: "As the prior reviewer noted, the slide stop pin measured .175". The specs for the 1911A1 call for a nominal size of .200" and, as a practical matter, the recommended size is around .197" or .198". My stock slide stop pin measured .198". The rails on the bottom of the barrel ride lightly on top of the slide stop pin as it slides forward into battery and .025" undersized is .025" too small. With astonishing luck, I found a small piece of hardened rod stock in the basement that measured .198". I threaded both ends to fit the threads in the mount and cut them a little long to accept a small locknut on either side. Since the slide stop pin is now just a pin, threaded on both ends and screwed into the mount, I needed a way to remove it. I slotted both ends for a flat head screwdriver, rounded and polished both ends and blued the pin and both locknuts."

The problem according to a user: "On disassembling the mount from my 1911 I found that UAG had supplied a *radically* undersized cross pin (i.e., the pin that keeps the barrel link, frame, and the slide stop together and pivoting with this scope mount, and replaces your stock slide stop lever). Indeed, the UAG cross pin diameter is 0.175", instead of the Colt 1911 standard of 0.200" (give or take). Why UAG would do this I am completely baffled, as their unit fits like a glove and is one of the best non-gunsmithing mounts I have ever seen for a 1911; but without the proper sized cross pin, no 1911 (that I know of) will operate properly."

Here's the deal: I was thinking of putting a red dot on my STI Trojan and saw this ad: http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Arms-Gear-Gunsmithing-Government/dp/B005ODCUVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398296638&sr=8-1&keywords=1911+scope+mount Convenient, doesn't require any mods. But several of the reviews complained that the cross pin/slide stop supplied to work with the mount was 0.175" diameter which is obviously way too small. One guy said his gun starting "locking up" which sounds like the barrel lugs were out of time. Anyway, I called to ask if they had the correct 0.2000" diameter pin available and the guy told me that it is only for "government and clones" and that they use a smaller diameter slide stop pin. I think he's making it up as he goes along...... somebody just used the wrong size pin and don't want to change it.