bountyhunter

Well, the PC 627 that I ordered was the last gun I'll ever buy from SW..... maybe you'll get a good one. let us know what happens.

Our Italian Greyhound went in for dental work and they ended up pulling about 15 teeth. YEOWWWWW

They used to have people like that but they fired them when they wouldn't work off the books for $5/hour......... seriously, I think they just did away with final check and use the customers as their QA.

Yeah, that's why I started gunsmithing so may years back. You get a screwed up gun and your only option is to send it back to the stooges that screwed it up in the first place.

Wow... a new PC 627 that looks like blind monkeys made it. I posted a thread a few years back about exactly the same thing which is why I'll never buy another new SW. FYI: twisted barrels is a standard item now on SW revos along with a bunch of other things like BC gap out of spec, hammers dragging on frame, side plate so tight that superman couldn't get it off etc. I was truly ticked off to spend $1300 on a PC gun that I then had to spend many hours fixing.

If it's not the slide stop, mag follower or mag spring: If it's a new gun (not broken in) it's probably short stroking. Use will cure it. You can also try a lighter recoil spring and see if it improves.

Yep, police depts use a lot of .40SW so "once fired" .40 brass abounds by the truckload. I didn't even know anybody was still making 10mm ammo..... it is awfully hot. That was the main gripe on it: the FBI agents couldn't shoot it as well because the recoil was horrible (or so they said at the time).

STI will fix it no problem. I suspect a problem with the sear spring. Either bent, leaf broke or was installed wrong. Sounds like the sear is being held away from the hammer hook as the slide drops so the hammer falls with the slide. If you take the slide off, you should be able to use finger feel to detect if the sear spring is pressing the trigger bow and then feel where engages into the sear. Dumb thought: visually inspect the sear tip. Is it OK or maybe broken?

I would never carry a 1911 for the simple reason it has to be carried cocked and locked safety on which means under stress, I have more things to do than just pull the trigger. Also, the safety is just too easy to bump down into the fire position when in a holster. I like the 1911 (and shoot one every week in league) but would not choose for carry. If I was to carry an auto it would probably be my Springfield Xd. I prefer DA gun with same triiger pull on every stroke. But my first choice for carry would be a wheelgun, 3" barrel, six shot .357.

That's also what I was thinking, since he said it: Glock's have no discernable "break point" on pull, just a long spring load takeup so you pretty much learn the break point and work with it. But you may be pushing forward at the same trigger point on the new gun right before it fires.

I would suspect differences in trigger break. A Glock trigger is unlike any other (had to think a while to come up with a polite way to phrase that) and it probably does change your pull technique a little. The same old trick I would recommend: Shoot at an indoor range and make sure to keep your eyes open after you align the sights and pull. Use the muzzle flash as a backlight to check if the sights are still aligned. many of us close our eyes right at ignition so the last thing we remember is a beautiful sight pictre but it doesn't always stay there through ignition.

If it's a bomar type adj sight that's walking out of the slide cut, the cut can be peened to tighten it up or it can be sealed in with red loctite. If the sight is breaking, you need a better sight. The cross pins at the front do break regularly.

Sounds like something from the custom shop..... IMHO, those .491 pins are the reason some people saw improvement using extended pins. Correct length is .495, non existent QC in piece parts. There are other defects that are probably improved by an XFP like excessive cylinder end shake or breech to cylinder gap excessive..

That's why I included the warning in my post. But I would also add: even if you use snap caps (or don't dry fire at all), those FP's are prone to breaking at least the ones I got. I agree with carmoney and I did the same thing with mine: garbage can. IMHO, the extended pin is a solution to a problem that does not exist. If you have a good .495 SW pin, extending it does not improve ignition at least it did not on both of the 66 guns I tested them on. That was the specific reason I bought them (to get lower DA pull weight) and they did not improve it.

Is this a stock SW pin or some piece of aftermarket junk somebody put in? Some of the aftermarket (extended) firing pins I got a while back also seized up in the firing pin channel because they had casting flash on them. Poorly made, no quality control. Does your "problem" pin have a bent tip? FYI, if it is an extended FP, dry firing without snap caps can damage it.

Yup they do. http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=8000191F-1391097312 BH, if your 9mm runs with a 12 pound then that's great but a lot run less and even STI has changed what they use obviously. The 10 pound doesn't beat the pistol up at all. I tried the 10 pound that came with the pistol and also a 9 pound and the 9 pound felt fine but my double taps were tighter with the 10 pound. Everyone should try a few and tune their pistol to their shooting. Not sure why I would change when 12# has always worked perfectly. And if my engineering degrees were worth their money, a stronger recoil spring stores more energy on the rear stroke = less battering when the slide hits the frame. Don't know why I would change what works to increase frame battering.

OK, here's a thread from people who are discussing the stuff and have used it. What I suspected is pretty much the consensus: it's another gun lube. Adding moly to grease is hardly a new idea either. It probably works fine (just like every other gun grease I have ever tried). http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/554419_.html

I have never tried it. I avoid any lube products that are complicated, there are literally dozens which are very good and easy to use like Slide Glide blended with FP-10 to the viscosity needed based on temperature.

Jose Canseco. (fingers are valuable)

Wolff calls out 14# for 9mm which I think is too high: http://www.gunsprings.com/Semi-Auto%20Pistols/COLT/1911%20GOV%27T%20PISTOL/cID1/mID1/dID1#3

My 9mm 5" Trojan came with a 12# spring. http://www.stiguns.com/resources/faq/ Q: What is the recoil spring weight in my gun? A: Compensated pistols 8 pounds 5″ 9mm guns 10 pounds 5″ .40 S&W guns 14 pounds 5″ .45 ACP guns 18 pounds 6″ 9mm guns 8 pounds 6″ .40 S&W guns 12 pounds 6″ .45 ACP guns 14 pounds They changed that since I bought my Trojan around 1995. But it did come with a 12# spring and I have always run it that way. I know because I called to ask them when the gun was new and it would "short" occasionally when the gun was still very tight. They said I could go down to 10# to break in then put the 12# back in. 12# runs perfect with standard 115 gr factory FMJ ammo, probably fired 30k rounds or more. I am sure it could run with a lighter recoil spring but I don't see any reson to beat it up. No guarantee 12# is the best for every gun, but that's what mine shipped with and I never had a reason to change it. FYI, you can see Wilson Combat's opinion on recoil springs. They call out 10 - 12#. http://blog.wilsoncombat.com/1911/a-guide-to-1911-recoil-springs-by-wilson-combat/

You can get .38 super mags and load the 9mm long and that supposedly reduces nose iving. Chip McCormick makes 10 round .38s mags.

My 9mm 5" Trojan came with a 12# spring.

I know it's a felony to try to sell them to or even give them to anybody in California. You also can not ship them into the state or carry them in.

The problem is that as you pull the trigger, you are pulling against the striker spring. If the recoil spring is not strong enough, you may see the slide creep out of battery a little. I had that happen using a "recoil reducer" guide rod/spring which has progressive springs (weakest forward position). I was also using a 40-9 conversion barrel in a G35 and I could see the barrel start to drop down OB as I pulled the trigger. Not good. Be careful going too light on recoil springs in Glocks.