dauntedfuture

I loaded 165g extremes with 2.6g of tightgroup and federal small pistol primers. 1.155 OAL. In a 5" M&p I got 766 fps. 2.8 got me 811 fps. Both 10 shot mixed brass strings. I decided to load 2.7 and that should get me 788 or 130pf.

your not bumping the shoulder, you just are not FL sizing your cases enough. Remember that your case gauge has noting to do with throat, and for the most part a wylde chamber is a .223 body with a slightly longer throat and that's about it.

W844 = H335 load data, that's m193 powder.

h335 was designed for use in original 20" m16 barrels so id say you are find and inventing issues to be concerned about. You can make a rifle length gas work on barrels as short as 16" Also, MK12 SPRs all have rifle gas and 18" barrels.

I think that's about where I am with 220g noslers. Trail boss has worked well and I never tried anything else. I don't do anything special for the brass.

I had the gas key come loose on a Factory Colt Hbar of all things. Same gun, different day, forward assist retaining pin broke and locked the gun up. I also broke both trigger pins when running a 9mm system in a rifle.

I don't think I missed it but... and it might seem obvious but I cant find it anywhere....what firearms are involved, I don't see that in the rules anywhere. I think its a 2 gun but cant find information anywhere.

could it be that its an OAL length issue vs a case dimension issue. If your lead or throat in your pistol is very short, then yes, your going to have an issue. If its a short throat gun then a tighter chamber gauge might not help.

I think that you'll get more velocity in that carbine barrel. Pressure in a rifle vs. pistol should be about the same. I should think that variations in pressure would be due to the chamber and throat of the given barrel.

The instructions for the rt1200 and rt1500 specifically say that not to size your brass before using one of them. You need to deprime , then size. There is a debate as to if you need to debur or mdie, I say you need to do something to remove the sharp edge. I would seriously consider buying some prepped brass to get started. Get the trimmer later. This is especially true if your shooting three gun as you will not pick your brass up.

Your on the right track. You will not be able to swage-it on a 550. You might look at chucking a primer pocket crimp remover cutter in a drill, its fast and easier then swaying a primer pocket. You might consider a rcbs lube die in station 1 or a Redding recapped. The lee recapped is picked as the recapping pin rod is .20, I kept banging brass into it. The Redding unit is tapered and the rcbs unit is smaller as well.

1.445 to 1.425 indicates that you have sized the shoulder another .02. You want to size your brass so that the shoulder moves .002, not .02. Your brass has been FIRED in another chamber. Fire forming is when you fire a case of one variety to form a new caliber case like when you make 6xc brass from .22-250 brass etc. or your making XXX brass into XXXAI brass; this is important as you cant use XXXAI data when the shoulder has not been moved forward as there is not enough room in the case. reference the measurement from base to shoulder in .223 vs. 223 wylde vs 5.56, depending on the chamber reamer used all vary. Even if you have a XXX reamer, depending on who did the barrel, the bolt to shoulder dimension varies. usually the 5.56 length is a little more generous however this dimension really has little effect on pressure; your throat has significant effect. It is common when using range pickup brass to need to size the brass a little more then think necessary to account for those few sticks fired in a generous chamber to account for spring back. You also need to make sure you well lube your cases. if you don't get enough lube on the cases and in the necks, then you can pull the shoulder forward when you pull the expander button through the cases. To set up your dies measure a few fired cases and -.002 or .003 and that's where the shoulder needs to be when full length sized, this is just setting up the FL die correctly, its not bumping the shoulder. When you bump the shoulder your only moving the shoulder back and not sizing the sides of the case. Size and measure 10 cased when you think its right and try them in your rifle and measure them to see if there are a few "big ones" in there. Your press might or might not need to cam over. Practically speaking for someone with a battery or AR's, set up your dies for your smallest chamber. If your running a bolt gun or a serious precision gun, have a die for each rifle. Almost forgot, sometimes the head stamps effect where the dies need to be set up based on the spring back of the different kinds of brass. Not to go on too much of a tangent, but annealing, which you don't need to do will uniform the brass and provide more consistent measurements.

80+g bullets are intended for single loading for the 600yd stage of NRA competition and beyond. They are also used with some limited success at 1000yds but its tough. If you go to sierras web site it will clearly tell you that these bullets are specialty bullets intended for single load.

Not all 147 fun bullets are make the same. I had to load zero's a little shorter then the precision deltas and the profile is different to get them to drop in my sti 9mm 2011. I'm loading about as long as I can with spacers in the magazines.

An open gun will be loud no matter what you do unless you take the comp off and that's not practical.

Before you get into testing accuracy for long vs short, you need to make sure your pistol will function well with what ever OAL you decide to load. I have a STI 2011 in 9mm that's been very reliable. I use STI magazines and a spacer in the back of the magazine that I hot-glued into place. I load 147's as long as that magazine with the spacer will allow. I had tried some loaded long rounds and with the bullets I was using, they were so long that they would hit the lands in the barrel. I suggest you start as long as your magazine will allow with a spacer in it, and plunk test your ammo. Seat a little deeper if you must. Some guys have found that they needed or wanted to load long as to not require a spacer; if I did that I would have needed to throat out the barrel or change bullets both. My pistol shoots very well and is reliable so I never wanted to fix what was not broken.

8" 55g 5.56 is about 2200-2300 fps so think of it as .22 magnum vs.... when you go to 10.5 you pick up another 200fps or so. I would not go shorten then a 11.5" in an AR. 11.5 guns tend to be more reliable than 12.5 guns.

Most people shooting uspsa with .40 shoot 165-180g bullets. Heavy bullets and fast powder produce less perceived recoil. Given two loads with the same power factor and a light and a heavy bullet, most people find the light bullet load to be a little more snappy. With two loads, same bullet, and the same power factor with a fast and a slow powder, most people will find the fast powder feels like there is less recoil. While I'm not certain why the one load shoots poor, that's insignificant as it would not make power factor so that load would not be a feasible combination even if it shot .0001 at 100 yes. Bump up the charges and get the velocity close, I suspect they will both shoot almost the same.

Oh yea, if you want to crimp you almost always have to trim.

It's easier to do in two steps for rifle and pistol. If your using one die for either one; adjust die body so there is no crimp, adjust seating stem until you get the oak you want, back seating stem way out and adjust for crimp. Once crimp is set lock the die and with case in the "up" position adjust the seating stem until there is contact w bullet. Lock seating stem. Mark crimp setting on die and press with marker. Your all set.

You might think about editing your previous post on this one...

Trail boss in .308 works well because you don't have to do anything special to the cases. I have used TB with SS 150g plated bullets and 220g jacketed bullets with good success. If you want to shoot heavy bullets SS, your going to need a 1-10" barrel.

What is your load? Are you using Federal brass? Has the brass been fired a few times and or were the primers easy to seat? Loads that are too light will generate enough pressure to seal the primer. Primer pockets open up after a few firings. Federal brass is very soft and can cause problems.

One of the most useful functions of a concentricity gauge is to determine where in the process you have a problem. Its entirely possible that with standard brass, dies and press you could get runout in the .002 range or less. Its also possible that with match brass, dies and press that you can have runout over .006. I have witnessed both. The most common cause of runout is bad brass; I have some 7.62 LC91 M852 that's just junk and it happens. with a concentricity gauge you can check runout after sizing brass and then after seating a bullet in the same cases to see if your seating dies are contributing to the problem. Its very possible and I have seen it on my own equipment that some dies are not compatible with some bullets at some seating depths; this tool can help identify the problem and identify if your seating bullets off the tip or the seating stem is so far down in the case that the bullet and case are unsupported in even a match floating chamber type die like forster or redding. For LR shooting your looking for .000-.001, .001-.002 is more realistic and identifying if you have a .004+ loaded round in there somewhere. Neck turning, just cleaning the case up, can usually eliminate most runout. .005 or more can spell trouble.

at what distance? What was the ES? Provided ES is good, shoot a 10 round group w. 45g at 200 yds and see what you get! Also consider a ladder test at 200 yds or more and see what happens.