dauntedfuture

Team, Any comments on building up a PCC from PSA AR9's? I was looking at upgrading to the JP short stroke silent capture kit, comp and CMC 9mm PCC trigger to a base rifle and going from there. Do these rifles run? Alternative is building a mostly JP upper, a mostly TACCOM upper.... or .... yes I know, just buying a complete JP rifle. Thanks

Thanks all. I will also try the shorter ammo

The TMKs end up getting seated deeper in the case so you might have to back down your load. Also, seating stem compatibility is more of an issue w. TMK than w. SMKs or other BTHPs

WILCO

I have had good results w. all kinds of 77's but the Sierra SMK's were the easiest to get to shoot and w. fewer problems loading them compared to the TMKs. Berger and Laupa 77's also shot well. Not as good of results w. H75's

I'd buy or borrow a concentricity gauge and take a look at your ammo. Start w. measuring your brass dimensions; if that's out of whack nothing you do is going to fix it. id also get comparators and measure consistency of shoulder to ctg. head for a relative consistency of sizing. Chances are your press is just fine; if anything you might take a look at your dies that you use or your brass.

I had the issues several times before I did anything at all w. the trigger. The same issues continue. yes, ammo spins free in gauge. This is not a failure to fire problem as there are NO indentations on the primers, its something else. when I rack bolt, round remains in chamber as extractor does not grab the round initially so I think it might be extractor related and I'm looking for input.

I have a newish Ruger PCC. I am running w. glock mags. On occasion I get a failure to go completely into battery; I get a click not bang w. no primer strike. I rack the bolt and pick up new rd. wo extracting old live round. This results in a double feed. I gauge all ammo so I don't think its that. Any one have to polish or modify extractor to get theirs to run 100%

I've got a 550, 650 and 1050. I used to load 9 and .223 on a 550 for 20+ years. After I got the 650, I did not look back at the 550. I still load my .308 case head/ .45 on a 550 and that's about it. I am debating parting w. the 650 for just the 1050 but that's another story. The 650 gets you a nice case feeder and a priming mechanism I like better as well as auto index. Just load on the 650 and get a case prep tool head w. lube/decap die and size die and another tool head w. all dies - size. You could use the Dillon trimmer on the 1st tool head if you wanted and that's what I would do; take the money I was going to use to buy a 550 and just buy a 1500.

For what its worth: I've shot all kinds of .223-5.56 chambered barrels for NRA HP. The only difference was the COAL w. 80+g bullets. For my 3g rifles, all are mag length loaded and I've had good results w. all kinds of chambers and several barrels. I think that the barrel quality and chamber quality matter more than chamber type; a quality Krieger will shoot well w. a good chamber etc. I have observed several otherwise good looking barrels, as observed w. bore scope, that had poor chambers and I felt they did not shoot as well as they should. I don't think you are really going to tell a difference other than you might get about the same velocity w. less powder in a tighter chamber w. shorter throat than a long throat.

I don't crimp .223 unless there is a crimp grove and this is only on fmj SR ammo. I load it on a 1050 without an issue and use a lee .223 crimp die.

yes

I have a new-ish Ruger 9mm Pcc. I am having issues with the occasional failure for the bolt to fully close / extractor to snap onto live round. I get a click not bang. There are no light primer strikes. As a result, when I attempt to clear I get a double feed. Yes, in theory I could pull loaded mag and then charge and re-insert magazine. Any one else tune or modify the extractor? Jon

I have a new-sih Ruger PCC that I run alongside my limited gun for USPSA. I have not done much to the rifle; it does have upgraded trigger and trigger stop as well as muzzle device. I have reoccurring issues where the bolt appears to go fully into battery and I get a click-not-bang, racking the bolt feeds new round and chambered round does not eject. The extractor did not catch the rim of the case. The result is a double feed. There is no light hit at all, zero, none... on the "original round" all ammo is checked on case gauge. Question: What if anything have people done in terms of cleaning/ polishing extractors or bolts etc? Jon

You should HS check the bolt w. the barrel. The headspace is "set" in relation to the barrel extension, as the barrel extension retains the rear of the bolt lugs. The barrel extension and the barrel and the bolt control headspace. In reality, its not "how far in" you set the barrel on at into the receiver provided its at least hand tight; provided the barrel assy. is hand tight to 30 Ft lbs, the headspace would not change w. a given bolt.

I use 24.2 TAC w. everything from 50 to 82g bullets in .223

I really like the Dillon lube. I use a bag or bucket; a pump or two on clean brass, a shake and another pump. Be sure to let sit for a few. I don't use any Dillon rifle dies, I do have carbide expander buttons and as such inside case neck lube is not really an issue.

A spritz of normal lube is fine to keep things flowing smooth

Im liking Tightgroup at the moment, about 4g w 124 or 3.2 w 147’s No more Solo 1000 available I dont like w231 as i was getting erratic velocity in .40 loads so i moved on to another 9/.40 powder N320 works well but is harder for me to find

You really need to post a picture. Brass normally fails closer the the base, about 1/3 of the way up leaving much of the case in the chamber. This is the portion of the case where the heavy base thins. Sizing brass too much will do this as will excessive headspace. Other potential culprits can be brass that's too long or burrs in the chamber.

There are a thousand ways to load ammo and they are all "Right" I would suggest that the proof is in the pudding; you should evaluate a sample of ammo before you run a large batch. I have loaded quality ammo with all kinds of dies and set ups and brass is usually the largest contributing factor for runout, I have some 7.62 LC91 that sucks no matter what I do. Total indicated runout or variations in case measurements (not headspace, that's inside the rifle) can be indicators that you have problems that could be a bent decapping rod or not getting enough lube inside the case necks. I try to load 10 rounds and check the runout on each one as well as put them into a case mic, if everything is still set up right, runout will be low and shoulders will be in the same place

I have tried all kinds of dies. Unless you are turning necks you really need an expander ball with bushing dies to provide the most consistent neck tension without turning necks which is a no-go for three gun. Otherwise your id will vary with brass thickness. there is really not a downside to using an expander ball with Redding dies. An m die will work about as well. the advantage the Bushing dies will provide is that you're not working the brass as much but you still need to end up with an id that's .221-.222 for a semi auto or about .002-.003 neck tension.

Your problem is that your setting up your trimmer so that it's not trimming all cases. You want to set up your trimmer for the short side 1.750 or the trim to length, not the long side. If you did find that your shortest cases are 1.752, then you could set up your die for that as well. You will get some variation in OAL because you are using range pick up brass. It happens. You should also have set up your sizing die so that it's sizing all the cases not just some.

How does one know if we got into the match or not?

when I was shooting NRA LR more I loaded all my 1k ammo on a 550. I still load a little here and there with it. I use a powder die from a 450 in the powder station and pause on the down stroke to dump in powder and then onto bullet seating.