dauntedfuture

How about striking a prop within xx ft? Would that make a difference?

No, a better barrel is not going to make wolf shoot much better. I've tried wolf and privi out of several Krueger barreled service rifles and it still sucks. Years ago ago when you had to shoot mil-ball 7.62 NATO in Palma competition guys did work to find what they could do to get bad bullets to shoot better. They did find tight bores and odd grove barrels and slow twist rates would shoot bad bullets better. You can buy 55 FMJ ball for like 300.00 per k and that's going to far outshoot the cheap Russian stuff. Proper copper jackets will also make a barrel last longer than shooting bimetal steel bullets.

There is a huge difference among "bulk ammo". The Russian stuff is mostly junk, I have tried a few boxes out of a few guns and it just plain does not shoot well. Most of the other 55g FMJ stuff shoots ok to pretty good depending on the mfg and the lot. Most of your accuracy is dependent on bullet selection. There is no standard for match anything. Your never going to get a junk bullet to shoot well. I've had no luck getting the privi "match" ammo to shoot for example and the hornady 55 fMJ shoot much better than some others.

The shooter had to really really really stretch to take the shot from where he did. While I'm not sure it was intentional or not, there was not really "a good shot" from that position or anything close to it. I appreciate the call.

How do you stake down a barrel on top of another barrel? - understand range equipment failure and reshoot would be the best call.

if your bolt is sticking to the rear: - The first place to always check are the magazines, ammunition and lubrication. If your magazines are gummed up or the ammo is a little dirty, the bolt can have a hard time stripping a round out of the magazine. - Provided the all else is good, you really need to take a look at the malfunction in action to determine where the bolt is in relation to the ammunition. If the bolt is almost all the way back and it's "stuck" about 1/4-1/2" forward from the base of the case it's likely your system needs a little more energy to return the bolt all the way to the rear of the magazine IOT pick up a fresh round of ammo. Again, improper lube, under power ammo or bad magazines can contribute to this. Provided those are OK, open up your gas block a little more and see if that fixes the problem.

You need to identify if the bolt is locking back as in the bolt catch is engaging OR the bolt is flailing to strip a round out of the magazine and is stuck back. If you pull the magazine out and the bolt goes home, your bolt is stuck back. If you remove the magazine and the bolt remains locked to the rear, your bolt is locking back.

It could have helped if you included what the problem was first. Yes, if your having pierced primers, blow primers, or primer flow etc issues then yes Firing pin hole could be an issue. An oversized firing pin will not help with this particular issue. This is is also why ppc and some other caliber rifles have "small firing pins". You are able to run a little hotter with less of a chance of pierced primers.

There is no reason to get a SB die unless you have an undersized body portion of the chamber. Some company standard dies are smaller than other company's SB dies. A bushing FL die will not size as far down on the case neck as a standard FL die will.

He shot the prop over, a plastic barrel with a shotgun. One was stacked on the other. Now a target was exposed that otherwise was not.

What issues are you having? I highly doubt that the firing pin hole cause them; if the firing pin hole was too big you could get primer flow issues but it's highly unlikely. Was as the first bolt perhaps from a "bargain-bin" supplier or gun show special? You do pay for quality, out spec parts are less likely at some of the "better" companies. Many outfits are simply rebranding someone else's stuff so it can be hard to tell. If the rifle now runs with the "new" bolt you have fixed your problem. Some firing pin holes have a little more radius then others.

At a recent 3G match a shooter shoots over the top of two stacked plastic barrels. Barrel was 5-8 ft away. Shooter now, from same position shoots clay that is now visible. I don't think it was intentional What penalty is there for shooting over a prop? - no, procedural??? Can the shooter engage now visible clay? - no shooter can't modify cof; procedural for shooting prop. No credit for a hit on clay from same position. Shooter accidentally shoots over prop, now moves to another position and engages clay where it would have been visible at the new, 2nd position? - Procedural for shooting over prop, shot at clay from 2nd position ok. Could a shooter shoot over a prop and then engage a now visible target intentionally? - I would not think so and that would be unsportsmanlike conduct; match DQ. Comments?

Run what you got until you wear out the barrel provided it shoots well enough. I'm looking for 200 yd 3" 10 round groups; from new match barrels. Consider where you finish in your matches, if your in the middle of the pack or towards the lower end, practice and a solid zero will help more then a "better gun". If your our better than average, or above center mass at matches then you will benefit more from a bit better gear but gear still only helps so much. If if you really must upgrade your rifle an adjustable gas system and lighter bcg and buffer will help a little to reduce recoil. Are re all your guns reliable? If any of your firearms are not reliable, like about 1/2 of everyone's shotguns out there, making your guns run reliably will save more time than shaving a little off your rifle.

I suggest that you consider buying prepared to load brass and then just run it through your 550. You save yourself some grief and you know you have reliable brass. .10 brass + .03 primer + .07 powder + .07 bullet = .27 or less. Then if you can, keep that brass and reload it. Most streatching is done after the first firing and sizing.

i have gone full circle in this kind of idea. The challenge is always making sure your gun works with both loads. I opted to tune the gas system on my rifle for 77's and then simply go to a 50-55g Bullet for close stuff that way I things simple on the press, I only change stating depth a little on my650.

I suggest you take a look at the PWS comps/ flash hiders. They work well as a comp, not great, and reduce flash. I've got a v6g as well and it works better then most but not quite like a SJC titan according to testing. I think you will be hard pressed to find a comp and flashhider that's lightweight.

I agree that you need more lube. I used a plastic container with a lid, spray and shake and spray and shake. You should also let the lube settle a little before you start. You almost can't have enough of the Dillon lube but you do need to let the brass sit so it can distribute itself.

How does it work with factory ammunition? If it runs with factory ammo then it's your reloads that are the issue. What spec case guage are you using .223 or 5.56? Are you gauging the sized brass or loaded ammo, you should be checking loaded ammo. I'd just send it back for that kind of money if it did not run with factory ammo. If you have to use the forward assist, you should not shoot that round.

Yes, yes, aa2460 or 2520....not TAC. Stay away from low ES and SD. The bigger the better I always say!

What ever you don't load 24.2 of TAC in a LC Case with any bullet 50-82g. Stay away so there is more for me to find when I need it.

Almost any time someone has talked about a walking pin its because they messed with the springs or installed them wrong. I have broken trigger pins in a 9mm AR. None of my soldiers ever had their pins walk out. I have antiwalk pins in guns only because those trigger designs mandate their use.

I've got a Razor 1-6 JM, a MK6 and a Burris XTRII 1-8. I have not played with the XTR 1-8 very much. Its a lot of scope for the money and there is a lot of scope in that scope, the thing is heavier than the Vortex. I like the MK6 reticle the best, I like the FFP reticle, but don't like the .2mrad adjustments, I like the Vortex adjustments, warranty and ease of use the best. I would rather have 1-8 v.s 1-6n but in practical terms, there are few times that 8x is really needed or of a benefit over 6x and I'm not sure if the extra weight it worth it. Did I mention the XTRII is real heavy... The eyebox is less forgiving in the XTRII. I have used and continue to use the rifle with the Vortex razor on it the most.

Google 2017 NRA highpower rules or CMP rules. There have been a lot of changes lately and you have some more flexibility. I do recall that no comps are allowed, its A1/A2 or no comp at all, they are too disruptive to the other shooters. This goes for match rifles too. I

I bought a less expensive YHM direct connect 5.56mm before I knew what I was doing. Had I known I would have saved a little more. I would look real hard at spending a little more and getting what you want, after you add the 200.00 stamp and wait 9 months, its a lot of work and wait to save 300.00 or so. If I was doing it over I would have looked real hard at the YHM QD .30 titanium can for my 5.56 and 7.62 needs. If your'e not doing entry work then you can save a few bucks and not get a SOT approved can as you will not have to worry a bout a round coming out the side of your can and into your team. Lighter cans will cost more. direct connect is cheaper but its real nice to be able to move the can around.

For what its worth; I was kind of in the same boat with the rifle that I was shooting for a while. It had an older profile 18" DD STW barrel, JP handguard, Larue mount, vortex scope, Magpul ACS stock and a JP cooley comp. I wanted to lighten a few things up as well and not break the bank in the process. I had no desire to go the titanium route. I also firmly believe that weight in a barrel is a good thing, years of shooting NRA LR, highpower and prarie dogs had taught me that some barrels don't shoot nearly as well hot as they do when cool. The 18" DD rifle barrel was still shooting so I decided to leave that alone. Replacing the ACS stock was easy and I switched it out with a Vltor IMOD without the rubber pad. I replaced the JP handguard with a MI, the scope mount with an Aero precision and put a patriot defense titanium comp on the end. I don't know how much weight I saved but it was more then a few OZ. The tough part is that the Vortex razor is big and heavy. I Think that the next place to save some real weight would be in a new barrel but that will wait a bit. I am still reluctant to go with an ultralight weight profile barrel. Id be interested to hear how well they shoot after a 20 rd rapid fire string.