Foxbat

Top end every so often... not sure how often, sometimes go 600-800 rounds with no cleaning and no issues. Before major matches - yes. Between seasons usually go till ejection gets noticeably slow. The frame... basically not touching it, waiting for it to tell me it wants to be cleaned. So far I would guess it has at least 30,000 rounds, and still is working as it should.

Precision Delta bullets are slightly less expensive, but in my view they are every bit as good, just don't look as expensive. So I use both them and MG. As far as plated bullets - I see quite a few open guys shoot them with no apparent issues. Perhaps your gun is more sensitive, than some. Blue Bullets I stopped using even in practice, as they deposited tons of lead in my comps.

Things do not break for no reason. Something made it break, and that "something" might still be there, so I would definitely send it in.

I spent some time testing, and found the placement and angle that work for me.

One of many good reasons of investing in new machines is the pleasure you receive from using them. Yes, in many cases you can do just as well time-wise using older, more simple (primitive?) presses, but your fun level increases with better machines. Whether this pleasure is worth the money - everyone's personal decision, but there is no denying that loading on, say, a 1050 produces different sensation.

I dunno... looks bulky and tall.

FA dehydrator worked for a few months, then the heater died, so I had to fix it, very cheap design inside. Also, there is no timer, and not even a switch. I am using external timer with it.

I sometimes tumble the loaded rounds to remove grease and make them shine, and after that I look at each round, and use the Exacto blade to remove the stuck media pieces. When using MG JHP bullets the job is fairly easy - as the cavity is pretty shallow, but the PD bullets are incredibly hard - it is deep, and it takes a LOT of effort to pull all the stuff out.

Everyone is different, but in my case the manual 1050 is mounted on a platform, that is about 6" below the standard bench height. I find such that position most comfortable loading while sitting.

When I run my press in its automatic regime, I have to make sure bad things don't happen. Bad things mean running out of primers, out of bullets and out of powder. Running out of cases is not dangerous - your press just runs empty. But no primers and no bullets mean powder mess all over the place, so it has to be stopped, so I added the sensors - they are visible in the picture. I could have also put in the low powder sensor, it is trivial, and I even have the wiring for it, but decided against it, because it is so darn visible.

I dunno... I have never seen any need for them mirrors. The bulletfeeder starts clicking when empty, and case feeder is obvious and with no drama.

Here. As you can kinda see, a shelf is attached to the column. One wing of the shelf supports the case feeder. The other wing, adjustable, holds the Mr. Bulletfeeder. Those positions are easily modifiable, if necessary.

Yes, there ARE other, better solutions. For all its pluses, the 1050 has the case feeder support design that is at best marginal. You are far better off building your own, separate from the press' frame. Also use it to support the bullet feeder. You get a more stable platform, which you can mount lower, and it will work more reliably. In my case I used the basement steel support column. You can then swing the case feeder slightly, as long as its drop point is aligned with the press. And there is plenty of room above the powder hopper. I measured the height, the feed tube on that one is full 4" shorter, than on the standard Dillon mount. And I could have dropped it another 2", if I needed to.

SV smaller? That is not my impression, unless someone does measurements. I have pretty large hands, and just love the fit of SVI grips. I was one of the early adapters, and fell in love with them right away. I have handled many open guns, and each one took some getting used to it, so don't let the first impression fool you, give it some time. As far as the weight goes - I do love the heavy stainless feel.

Two Allen head screws in the middle of the round plastic disc.

No, not quite. A simple time delay will miss.

I would agree with that logic.

It is quite a bit more complicated than just another switch. It requires some logic circuit, either hard wired, or programmed.

Well, I do think that aggressive metal grip is the best option, I use them, but the grip may or may not be your main concern at this point. I have shot quite a few plastic grips and I can't say they are all that deficient. OK, except one, which was relieved too much, so it became noticeably soft and jammed the mag on reload. Like I said - post pics, and people might suggest areas of improvement... besides just being curious - everyone loves pictures! And yes, Eric is correct, some plastic grips have incredibly sharp stippling - I once had the Milenium one, and that was bit into your hand like crazy.

The simple answer is NO. You can get somewhat better than stippled (there are many forms of that, of course), but nothing is going to equal the aggressive texture of a good metal grip. You don't need to get restless, however. Many, many people shoot guns with plastic grips, and do extremely well. A metal grip will not turn a mediocre shooter into a master. Learn to shoot the gun you have. If you post some pictures of it, people might recommend some changes, which may or may not include the grip.

I have shot some number of BB in my open gun, and yesterday I noticed the lead buildup like you would not believe - it happened very quickly too. Spent 20 minutes of hard labor, got most of it out. Never again.

A less expensive option is to buy the Hornady bullet feeder die, and add a piece of clear plastic tubing to it. I have that on one of my presses, which I don't use for much. it works very well.

Don't take me wrong - I am all for new toys! And 1050 is a very nice toy indeed! I am sure you are going to like it. Just start by going slowly, and don't force it. One thing I would like to mention - when moving the handle up from the fully down position, you can sometimes hit what seems to be dead stop. It could be caused by some brass not going readily into the shell plate. Don't force it, just try to wiggle the case, and it will go in.

Wait till you do some caliber conversion.

858 is spot on - it all depends on your position with respect to the press. I load sitting down on a tall lab chair, so I simply adjust its height to the particular press - I have four, mounted at different heights. It doesn't take long to find the right height.