Foxbat

Another strong vote for steel grip. I shot several guns with plastic grips, but when I switched to steel ones I knew this was it.

I don't want to speak for jmorris, but since he is not yet answering - the video shows the PW drive, which normally comes with single phase, single speed motor, with brake. I don't know if his is modified. It is trivial job to put a 90W 3ph motor in place - they have identical dimensions... just make sure you get the one with the brake. They can be found on ebay for well under $100. A VFD controller you can find for $50 or so, if you want a 120V unit.

Does that usually include shipping?

Another good source - many public ranges sell brass. The one here sells boxes of 9mm for $15, and you usually get 1200-1300 cases. They require a bit more sorting, but no big deal.

I too hand sort all incoming brass, it takes very little time.

There's always some brass left behind by some shooters at our indoor range - they put it in the bucket for anyone interested.

"Loading your 9mm just twice?" Where did THAT come from? 9mm Major brass can take tens of cycles. Plus, as I mentioned, 9mm is free to many of us. Better way to present the question would be - how often do you buy your 38SC brass? When I got out of 38SC I sold all my brass for small fortune. It stands to reason someone spent all that money. Since then, for about 7 years, I have not spent ANYTHING on my brass.

9mm brass can be had for about 1 cent ea, but in reality I get about as much range pickup (from the bucket), as I lose in matches, etc. So it is pretty much free.

In my case the level dropped to very low in just months, but with some serious levels more time will be needed - I started at 15. Two main changes - went with wet tumbling and started using the exhaust fan at our indoor range religiously. Used to be somewhat sporadic. Bottom line is - you CAN bring it down with some simple means.

I have two 9mm SVI guns, one 6 year old, one 3, and I am happy with both of them. Old pic - now they both have RTS2's.

Hmmmmm... never noticed that. Same process. Furthermore, when I shot both in the same gun, I did not notice any real difference. Certainly nothing that would have affected my scores one way or the other.

Usually doesn't matter, unless you are trying to meet some particular Power Factor number. For regular plinking and practice it makes no difference. But I had to adjust the load when aiming at PF of 172, by noticeable amount.

Noise, yes, but fortunately, if there is no stoppage, it completes the cycle in less than half of its allocated time, so you can shut it off sooner.

Depends on the particular machine. I have three of them, and they all have their preferences. One definitely prefers the Winchesters, which I use most of the time, luckily. They all have their characters, so you need to learn it.

The CMJ (Complete Metal Jacket) bullets have their bottom covered with jacket, hence their name. So do plated bullets, and coated bullets. Only the traditional FMJ bullets have exposed lead on their bottom. There are quite a few people shooting coated bullets in their open guns nowadays. I do it often at practice, with no ill effect.

I put two rounds with MG CMJ on top of fully loaded 170mm mags. I have not seen issues with feeding JHP under a lot of mag spring tension, but consider this small additional margin of reliability.

Speaking of the original question - my advice is to not sell the 650, but keep it for assorted chores. Their caliber change is much easier, and I keep one set up with small primers, one with large ones, it makes it so much easier to load some "other" ammo on a whim. It will take me little time to load 200 rounds of .380 all of a sudden. On the auto drive - if I move fast and don't waste too many motions, I can just about keep up with the 1050, loading primer tubes, adding powder, primers and bullets, and putting ammo into boxes. No idle moment there! That's running at 1200-1400 an hour speed. Anything faster and it outruns me, but I don't do commercial quantities, so I can always turn it down a bit.

The price difference between used and new 1050 is probably going to be largely symbolic, so my advice is to buy new one.

I believe there was an issue with the gun's weight, in terms of its qualifying for CO? Have they been resolved? I am currently using the RTS2's on my open guns, and like them, but I see many people like the Sig.

I am considering making such a gun, and have a question - has anyone done that? Where did you go for slide cut, and which sight did you end up using? I know it is commonly done with Shadow, but Shadow 2 slide has different shape, so I am curious if if it can be cut properly.

Redding.

I have five case feeders, and those that are on the presses are basically totally trouble-free. I guess I put 400-500 cases in at a time. They run at slow speed and I never have to clean them, I torqued the clutch or two long, long time ago. It is the one that runs on the Case Pro is the problem - it is simply unable to keep up with the machine demand. It has to run at High speed, and it is not capable of doing it continuously.

As I said before, to me it is not just the cost, it is the freedom to not think about it. When I shot 38SC I always walked with my head down... now it is up.

I have built drives for both Case Pro and 1050. I would not say it is entirely simple, there are some nice gotchas there. Still, not too complicated. It is not hard to add sensors - I have an overload sensor, bullet sensor and primers sensors - the three main reasons to stop the machine. My drive stops very gently in case of something going wrong, without breaking any parts. I borrowed the basic idea from PW, and their connecting rod, but made some improvement in other areas.

All kinds of surfaces, the only exception being a mag dropped head-first into liquid mud would get cleaning. Other that that I don't sweat it.