spook

Very sorry to hear this Dogs are the best. Give him all the love you can give him...

Thanks AzShooter IIRC the reload was something like a 1.67 or 1.71. Especially watching the clip go in is essential. Most of my fumbles come from expecting the clip to go in and closing the cylinder too early, instead of just watching. The whole "smooth is fast" cliche really goes for reloading a revolver. I have also experimented with that. I found that it doesn't really matter, as long as you get a good shooting grip on the gun while going up and are ready to shoot the instant you get back on the target.

Hi AzShooter! Here's the link to the El Prez video: http://www.rudenko.nl/oleg/movies/ipsc/bjo...-presidente.AVI It doesn't show the reload in great detail though If you have any questions about reloading I'd be glad to give you my views on them But, as Carmoney points out, I know one technique. I keep my revolver in my strong hand when I reload. I have worked a little with the other technique, but I wasn't really comfortable with it. I am 100% positive that both ways can be equally fast though. I recently saw Saul Kirsch's World Shoot DVD and there's a good slow motion video of some reloads on that. Saul set up the cam the same way as with the Travis Tomasie reload vid. They're not the fastest reloads I have ever done, but the technique is the same. Do you have any specific problems with reloading? I noticed most of my problems come from not looking at what I need to be looking at (seeing what you need to see )

"Serenity now!"

Ditto on all of the above. Please stay! I enjoy reading your posts too much!

Amen. Plus for me: 4) Shoot only when I want to 5) Get my dang University degree 6) Break the 6 reload 6 Miculek record 7) National Title in both Revolver and Production Division

I also like the "leaving on the easy one" thing. I guess it all comes down to your strength. I somehow can enter on a difficult target but have more difficulty leaving on a tight shot. I usually take the second hardest one on entrance and leave on the easiest one, but it all depends on the scenario. Like Jake says, it's better not to overcomplicate things. If I have to swing back a loooong way, just to make the exit easy, you win nothing. Just set up as many scenarios as you can think of and practice is what I would do. You'll see what works best.

Motivation. It you want it, it can happen.

There is a definate relation to shooting static targets and the way we call the shots on them. But because there is more to see we have to pay more attention to the whole process of making the shot. One of the big differences is that we cannot choose to make the shot at the exact time we want to. We have to make the shot within the limited time the target is visible. On a static target we may wait a tenth or even only a couple of hundreths of a second to create the situation where we know the shot will hit the target. When shooting swingers this may cause the target to be more difficult to shoot, or even invisible. A side effect of this is that it is easy to become tense and rushed in order to make the shot at that “perfect time”. Knowing the path of the swinger and the place in the backstop where you want to hit it helps me. I recall Angus Hobdell saying you shoot look for “furrow” in the backstop (the place where most bullets end up) and shoot the swinger there. Another big difference is that we have to shoot at a moving target (duh…) making it harder to call the shot if you don’t know your lead. Knowing your lead is important. Especially for the shooters shooting slow bullets. With this said, I still think the most imporant difference is feel. I can almost always feel instinctively if I hit a swinger, when I let all the visual input (lead, speed of the swinger, place of the sights at the moment the shot went off) just enter my mind and let my instict figure it all out without interference of conscious thought. The times I miss are usually a result of “reasoning” I hit the target, because the sights were there and the target was there, but it didn’t “feel” right.

Amazing! I need 5.2 grain of N320 to push my Copper plated bullets to 177PF Major. I never expected the difference between lead and jacketed/plated to be that big.

Cool, a 2nd shooting addict named Jake Welcome aboard!!!

What surprized me is the results of the World Shoot. Generally, people agree that Production shooters have to shoot more Alphas than Standard shooters, because of their minor scoring. But when I looked at the results of the last WS, I saw that the top in PD and the top in SD shot the same amount of A's, C's and D's (and mikes , PT's and procedurals). Apparently, there's a definate points disadvantage in shooting minor. By that, I mean that it takes too much time to keep up (points wise) with shooting major. The only advantage may be capacity, but you will have to be a lot faster to make up the difference in points. I would go for major.

I have asked my brother to bring me a "regular one" (not APS) from the US for Christmas (it's $23,25 at Natchezss and almost $50 here). The APS seems like a nice gadget, if you reload with primers already in the strips. If you use other primers, it just seems like more work, loading the strips...

Patrick, at the WS, you were in the big revolver squad with Lopez right? Did you notice the Brazilian shooter with the weird model 25? It had a 6" full lug barrel and a very strange hammer with a very thick square spur. I figured he would have some big trouble at the equipment check, but he went right through. Even internationally, changing barrels is not really a big issue, as long as you have the factory profile, and even that is not very strict. You could switch to an 8 3/4" barrel if you can get S&W to tell you they ever made one (and I guess they will if they make one for you )

:lol:

I had the same problem with my 625-3 and fixed it with a little cylinder B/C gap spacer. I also noticed that it happened more (read: only) with shooting lead than with my Frontier Copper Plated bullets.

Sorry Spook, I dont get out much. CA, AZ, and NV is pretty much my world. Dave Well, I don't blame ya! I'd probably do the same. I t sounds like frigging shooting heaven over there. My post was a reaction to MoNsTeR's post though Will do today! Thanks for the heads up

Carmoney summed it up! I personally like the serrated trigger, So I put one on my 625. I also left the sights stock, but thinned the front to somewhere between .090" and .100" I have one of the 1988's too and you definately need to replace the floating hand. I wanted a 25-2 for the (looks and) radius, like Patrick, but unfortunately, blued guns are not too happy with my hands, so I bought another 625. I doubt there's a difference in how well you could do with either one.

Congrats man! And keep up the brilliant shooting!

Also, don't forget that I am in Europe (where Glocks are from ), so rules are different here The company calls it TENIFERtm so it appears to be a trademark name. They say its almost equal to QPQ (quench polish quench). I think it's the real deal.

1/2 corn cob 1/2 walnut shell (and some Dillon rapid polish). Works well.

I don't really care for the shiny chrome. I have a 2nd Gen G17 that has the "bead blasted" tenifer look. It looks very nice (better than the new "shiny" Glocks IMHO). I'll ask if they canmake it look that way. I have also worn out the black of my Glock in various places and I actually love the look. It looks used and the only way to make it look better is to use it more

True, but it is required that you stay very true to yourself in dry fire. I have had some problems, because of the lack of any feedback of where the shots went. But as soon as you get this down, things start gong the right way fast.

Oh yeah! Those were my best matches/stages. It's cool to even know where your hits are on the target as you score.