spook

It's season 5 Julien

Hi Pin Shooter! Holy Crap that's fast. I'm still stuck at .20 as my fastest ever

Oh yeah! Can't wait. Unfortunately I have to wait one day before I can download it on this side of the ocean Best show at the moment.

True. The problem is that we have to work on trigger speed SOMEtime. Maybe the best solution is buying a real junker (say an old S&W 27) and just work the trigger on that gun to save the match gun (just for fast trigger work).

Funny you should mention that. A couple days before I had the problems described here, that old "how fast can you pull the trigger?" thread of yours surfaced here on the forum. So naturally I went down and got out my 625 and the timer and sat there dry-cranking it as fast as I possibly could to see how fast I could go. [....I'm deliberately leaving this perfect set-up for Cliff's punch line....] Gotta wonder if the gun was just on the edge, and that little bit of abuse was enough to send it over into the abyss. Dang! Yeah, I guess I should apologize (in advance) to all the shooters who killed their revolvers after reading that thread. Maybe we should delete it and replace it with a "splits don't matter" thread. My cylinder stop broke at the range, but I had been practicing splits in dryfire a lot the week before

Doug, I don't think it's so much the number of rounds fired, or how heavy the loads are, but more a matter of how hard you slam the cylinder against the cylinder stop (how fast you pull the trigger), and how often you do that. Heat treating could help the wear on the stop, but it could also become more prone to breaking (like my non-MIM part did).

Great posts so far. I'll ask my gunsmith if he has any useful solutions to this problem. For now I'll throw in a regular MIM stop. FWIW, cylinder stops receive the worst abuse during dryfire, when practicing insane splits you never use in matches. Something to think about I think I'm going to be a little more smooth and a little less abusive on my revolver

Thanks for that!

Shred, good point. I was talking about IPSC. I don't know if capacity would be a big problem in USPSA. From what I've seen on US Nationals DVD's I can only say that the difference would also be minimal. Unless you run into real hoser stages where you're just blasting at brown from the beep until the last target.

Conincidence... I broke my cylinder stop a couple of weeks ago. First one I ever broke and it was one of the non-MIM parts. You could probably have an old case hardened one TiN-ed and never look back. Weird problem though. I would have expected the light cylinder to give less problems in this area than a big heavy Stainless Steel cylinder. BTW, Do the cylinder stops require fitting, or can you just drop them in?

Seems to me the only thing you'd be giving up is capacity in a division that is least dominated by capacity anyways. I say try it out first by shooting a "normal" open gun downloaded to 20 in a 140mm or 25 in a 170mm magazine. If your times don't suffer, go for it!

Well, I guess if you look at my grip you could say I failed that too

IT looks SWEET. Too bad I failed Dremology (got an F)

I have the non-fo Dawson Adjustables on my Glock. I would not choose them again. They're very nice sights, but they're too high for my likings. Also, the front is a little too wide (I have the .100" front) in the notch. I would go with a Heinie race cut or something similar. The fixed stuff from Ameriglo also looks nice. Adjustables are nice, but once you have your fixed sights set, they're better in every aspect.

Congrats Hop!

It actually looks like it could fit the IPSC-box. Anyone try that out?

You will have to live with the fact that some of the techniques described are "useless" to a revolver shooters (reloads for instance, or stage planning, trigger technique etc.). But there are more similarities between shooting auto's and revolvers. You'll definately learn stuff. Some stuff you have to figure out on your own, or with the help of this great place

Looks cool! But isn't the big block on the left side of the gun very disturbing?

Sorry to hear it Steve John said it all! IMO you couldn't have handles this better. Ihope I never have to go through this, but if I do, I hope I'll handle it the same way

I agree with most that shifting is not a bad thing. Hell, just look at Jerry Miculek who tosses his whole revolver to the other hand and still reloads faster than most Auto-shooters. Like Jake says, it's probably best to practice shifting your grip a lot. The bottom line is that there are some things than need to be done in order to make a mag change. The old mag has to get out by pushing the button, the next mag has to be grabbed and inserted and the gun has to get back on the target. Ideally, you want the smallest amount of time between each action. The way you reload now, you have more time between pushing the old mag out and grabbing the fresh mag than you want. If you do both at the same time, you win lots of time. Also, something that should be taken into consideration. Pushing the mag button with the hand that also grabs the mag is not very consistent. What if you miss the magbutton and your hand goes for the new magazine? You'll have to bring your hand back to the gun.

Been there done that. Be careful with girls who do not trust you. We have a saying in The Netherlands that would translate to: "One can only trust someone else as much as he can be trusted himself". If she doesn't trust you with your friends, what does that say about her? Run, while you can (you say it's no heartbreaker, so use that wisely )

Thanks for the info Mike. I wonder if I can get one of those babies around here. McOliver:

Thanks guys, I checked and the computer is fine. I ran the drill only once (forgot the drill and did it with my last two bullets ) in live-fire today and got a 1.88. Just glad I can use this cool tool to train at home

Man, I can't believe I missed this whole thread! Great review, and a very cool project. Did you run into any problems in the months you shot this gun Mike? McOliver, I can't help but notice you smith's gun is in a right hand holster and has a left hand thumb paddle. What's up with that?!

Drawing to a smaller target can require more refinement of your sight picture. It can all be done in the same time, but usually the times of smaller/further targets are a tad slower. What are your PAR times right now?