rishii

My go to for 38SC my backup for major 9 i know guys who used it in 9 and 40 primarily because they got out of open and wanted to burn it up

I also started with a rockchucker, it was a good, solid single stage press and here come the but, look at a Dillon 550, use it as a turret press, load only 1 case at a time until you get the hang of it im guessing within a couple hundred rounds, you’ll be loading progressively

Shooters connection show a few on their website

I’ve used hp-38/w231 for 38sp fr years

I have the Brownells branded metalforms, and I did 2 mods to them both involve the feed ramp on the front of the mag. i polished out the sharp inside edge on the feed ramp, and I saw the feed ramp was ever so slightly sticking out past the mag body and causing it to not drop free, a couple of taps with a hammer solved that

Plus I wish holosun would make a simple 8moa dot, instead of all of their various reticle i know they make one with a 8moa ring, but I like a big bright dot

The giant circle would be helpful shooting strong or weak hand only, often my index isn’t perfect and I’m hunting for the dot on the draw. A ton of dryfire would cure it also but who’s got the time for that

The old holster test rule was something like being able to retain the gun while doing a 360 degree forward roll, doing a vertical jump and rotating 360 degrees on a vertical axis, vaulting a 3’ high vertical wall, and any retention device used for the holster test must be used throughout match. back then I thought it was cool, now think I’d end up in traction

Also mine started to act up after I used it to deprime a bunch of 9mm before wet tumbling and had a few primers hang up and jam in the primer wheel, which was enough to throw off the timing

I had a similar problem, took it apart cleaned etc, nothing worked call Dillon, punch in your call back number, you probably need new parts

We’ve done stages like that 1. It will be gamed in ways you’d never image 2. don’t get heartburn when it gets gamed, it’s part of the game 3. Whenever you make a stage that involves stupid human tricks, never underestimate stupid

I used them years ago when they 1st came out for my open gun triggers and they worked fine. However later on the ones I bought were inconsistent, I’d go thru 3-4 to get 1 tuned right. now days there are much better options

Depends on how long you plan to compete after paying an annual member for 10 years I realized it was about the same amount as a life membership and upgraded that was 20+ years ago, never regretted it

Damn I’m old i had one of those too, until very recently I still used the mag pouches on my production rig

We’ve been doing frequent mag changes in all divisions since 94, like the saying goes do something enough time and you’ll get good at it

On a 1911 you can’t fire the gun until the slide is back in battery With my 6” limited gun with heavier bullets, I’m waiting for the gun to cycle to fire the second shot but I’m also primarily a open shooter where the gun does cycle quick ive fired .10-.12 splits on occasion

It depends on the gun and division heavier bullets feel more like a push Lighter more snappy, faster cycling i used to run 147s in production then 1 match I ran out of my match ammo, so I grabbed what I had, 115 factory ball, 124 and 147 jhp and what little of my match ammo I had and shot the match. Some mags had 115 some with 147 and a couple with all 3 and what I noticed was I didn’t notice any difference while shooting the stage i was too busy watching my sights and executing my stage plan I also have a 6” 40 with a lighten slide and I run 165’s, anything heavier and the gun cycles too slow, I feel like a could smoke a cigarette between shots

Cool looking gun, I didn’t know limcat worked on anything not sti based

The competitor is responsible for their equipment if you gun breaks during a stage, you don’t get a mulligan to fix it, record the time, score as shot. if you get a squib, the RO should try to stop you for safety, but again, it’s your ammo, it’s your responsibility to make sure you brought good ammo. if I suspect I have a squib that the RO didn’t catch, I’d stop, inform the RO and check, if it’s a block bore, it’s scored as shot, if not times running

You didn’t post what gun, if it’s something it’s grip screws, check if they’re protruding into the magwell and pinching the mag Also if you have a extended button on the mag catch, the left side of the mag catch may pinch the mag in place after it releases it. A simple fix is to drop a tiny ball bearing into the mag catch spring and use the lock to hold it in place to act as a overtravel stop

Has a Black Friday https://3dstagebuilder.com/

That’s my experience also, I tried them on both my limited and open guns because I’d handled guns with them and like the feel but it caused my shot to group low.

I ran the peltor tactical pros until they died now I’m using the tactical 500 with the gel ear seals they both worked well without earplugs for open, and standing next to a 50 Barrett the head band on the tac pro’s are way more comfortable, the one on the tac 500 sucks

I think the problem with the 9mm FP compared to the regular M16 FP is what stops the forward momentum. on the M16/AR15 I believe it’s stopped by the flange on the back of the FP impacting the back of the bolt on the 9 mils it might be stopped by the shoulder at the tip or by the primer itself, which could cause it to flex every time it’s fired. I broke the tip off one of mine, and I’ve seen other break at the shoulder half way up. but then again, I could be full of s#!t

I have a 6” limited gun and it’s just ok, it was built to comply with the old rule. It cycles slower than I like with any ammo heavier than 165 heads. A friend built a gun with a 6” island barrel and 5” slide, it cycled fast, has the longer sight radius plus a little weight out front if I ever got the bug to shoot limited regularly, I’d build something similar