EkuJustice

If you follow that logic that time spent in the pouch now makes the reload to come from the pouch rather than the barrel, then it would follow that time spent in the shooter's hand makes the reload come from the hand, rather than the barrel. For example, a shooter grabs a mag from the barrel and takes 5-6 steps away from the barrel before the mag finally makes it into the gun, is that a reload from the barrel or from the hand? What is to differentiate that from a shooter who grabs a mag from the barrel, takes 1 or more shots with his loaded gun before replacing the mag that is currently in the gun? Yep, another example of the devil being in the details.... You could probably write it up to force that -- ammunition to be reloaded into a fire arm must not be retrieved until there is a need to perform a reload, and must upon retrieval from the barrel be inserted immediately into the gun, before another round is fired/step is taken/more than 2 seconds pass/the RO keels over..... But all of that specificity creates other headaches, and potentially sucks some fun out of the stage/match..... Best to specify starting positions/conditions, and then let the competitors solve the problem.... Problem I see with wording it as "until there is a need to reload" would be defining need to reload. This is not IDPA where slide lock reloads are the norm. Is a need to reload classified as when you choose o or when the gun is dry

Carpooling is the way to go especially with 3 or 4 people and a vehicle that gets like 26+mpg

Mossberg 930

your not really changing the finish, the finish is just wearing off by polishing. I would argue the fact that it is not refinishing as no finish is added to refinish.

I would say what if the mag gets dropped does it have to go back on the barrel. If that was the case, and the barrel was a good distance out of the way, someone may "mess up" a reload and send the mag hurdling in the direction of travel. Im a big believer of set it how you want them to start at the beginning of the stage then let them go for it after that

The tacky pads have advantages in the gun wont move on the shoulder. My mount is out and straight back into the shoulder instead of trying to slide it up into place

Did you do any trigger weight measurements before and after? Nope

seems pretty high with the longer barrel and shorter OAL. Start low and work up. Mine is a 6 inch 2011 and makes major at 4.5 grains with a cushion of 4.6 grains loaded at 1.185 with the shorter load, I would load less and work up. I would try a few each at 4.2 grain, 4.4 grains and 4.6 grains and hit the chrono working from the lowest up. 4.8 seems like a pretty heavty load with that short of an oal

love the jager one. I can definately tell a BIG difference when putting it in the gun though. The trigger feels crisper with thejager striker in the gun

Have the short barrel rifle in 223. The 9mm shooting 147grain subsonic is extremely quiet. The fact I have a ton of 9mm glock mags just makes it even more tempting.

sounds like the comp is pushing it down too much

Looked at one of the lonewolfs myself. Mainly wanting just the lower and then have a bolt modified. the goal is a 5.5 or 7.5 inch SBR with a a longer freefloat tube with a can under it

or look for a new barrel/topend that is tapped. there are usually showing up on rimfirecentral pretty cheap as people buy the gun and then scrap the "gun" ie topend as they just want the grip

Seen one stage at a recent match where a disappearing targer could have been debated based on the division and the hitfactor. It was basically 4 paper targets maby 15 or so yards out, and a pepper popper which activated a drop turner. For single stack, the difference was shooting the 8 paper and then calling the shot on the steel with you last round or shooting paper do a standing reload and then do steel and drop turner. At 2 alphas, and a hit factor of 5 its going to have to be sub 2 seconds for the reload, re engaging the target and turning some to hit the dropturner.

Ill take the SP 45 Just getting into the 45 loading and would rather have the SP brass. It just means I do not have to change out the primer feed on the loader or stock 2 types of primers since im loading 9mm and 40sw now

volquartsen trigger, or have a pretravel screw installed in yours. Volquartsen sear "sams bushing" check over on the 22/45 section of rimfire central. Its like 10 bucks and removes the mag safety and causes the mags to shoot out. I had a guy on rimfire central tap my trigger for a pretravel reduction 5 bucks, drill and tap the ag release for a button with button included 20 bucks. Volquartsen sear Sams bushing like 10 bucks, slide racker i think was 30 bucks and added the C-More on an alchin mount. For ammo, I like the federal automatch. cheaper than CCI and runs great

Yes the trigger groups are the same. If you really want a nice shooter, check with freedomgunworks. He has upgraded a factory gun for me and I have felt some of his custom builds and they feel great

I wish they would just sell the bracket so I can mount my bladetech on the rig

I had one of mine done by cold bore custom. I went with the "tactical" and it feels real good and has a pretty subdued look to it also

Usually use IC here.

Ghost ring is fine, ports put you in open. I would try ghostrings before you add them. Personally I do better with a bead over any of the other sights. For a shotgun, the porting is highly overrated especially for the loads we use

Have one here as well on a single stage. I went with the lee buldge buster and carbide crimp die. Was the cheaper of the routes and works real well

it depends on what you wanna spend. If you can wait a month or so for the jm 930 to come out that might be a good choice as well. the selling price ready to go is much less than the other ones

I have had the best luck with the STS hulls especially if you plan on reusing the hulls quite a bit. The STS hulls can go 10+ times with normal loads. They also are a 1 piece hull. The other hulls including the "new" AAs ie the smooth ones which have been out for years are a 2 piece design. If shot too much the basewad can loosen up and come out of the hull. In a break open you can easily see if this happened if you make it a point to look down the tube when you insert your shell in the gun. On a mag fed gun your not doing this and if that comes out and ends up in your barrel its not a good thing

I use 2x quite a bit if the targets have some distance but i still want the FOV