EkuJustice

That's ammo related. Metal fatigue will not have a chamber let go like that

Ya they should feel LUCKY that all they have to pay to fix the gun and not you. I hope it was At least an ammo company you bought from hopefully and not just a gun shops reloads they sell for the range or bubbys gun show reloads sold in a ziplock bag.

If your able to build a rifle, or know someone that can help you out with one you can build one for pretty cheap. Upper and lower receiver, give the the Anderson a look as they are well made and not very expensive at all. For the handguard a Nordic is nice if you want an extended one or even a DPMS rifle length free float can be had cheaper. Throw on an A2 stock and a decent barrel and run with it. For the trigger, a GI trigger with a pretravel adjustment screw for the grip screw and JP springs and a cutdown "speed hammer" will get you a pretty decent trigger for like 20 bucks or so. For the comp a good miculek works well and is about half or less what the others are. On the Shotgun like others have said a stoeger 3000 and a tube and run with it. Pistol, use what you have or go with a glock or MP a good 3 gun holster like the safariland ALS can be had for less than 50 bucks and the guns not coming out. Pretty competitive gear can be had on a budget and still preform and not hold you back especially if just starting out. The areas that people usually spend the most on that dont really offer expensive stripped uppers and lowers and free float tubes when a much cheaper one will serve the same purpose.

Ya what worry and expense are there to making major in 9mm? We really do not need any more divisions for every little thing someone wants to shoot. If you wanna shoot minor go for it no one is stopping you, the same as with limited, and all the other divisions.

Use non SNL pads, or the 3mm base pads. I run non SNL pads on mine and get 20+1 reloadable in 40 cal with no feed lip work and no issues at all on gauge

I don't insure any guns I ship to have work done on them as I have an insurance policy that covers guns when shipped. I ship with a signature to get the full insurance coverage on my policy. Saves money if you ship guns and it's nice to have in general. Usps is the way I ship but it requires an ffl to ship hansguns

Use the best you have and take your time when navigating the stage in those kinds of conditions. Regardless of what shoe you have it's gonna get slick on those conditions. Better to go a little Slower and finish safe over trying to go full speed and risk going down and DQ, most Will slow down a little some will try to go full speed and hope for the best and it will be costly for some.

If you wanted your time you shouldn't have called for calibration. Once you call for calibration and the target is hit and dosent go down it's a mandatory reshoot. You could have just taken your mike if you were happy with your time and not called for calibration

Ya here most of our stages are 24-32 rounds with the exception of the classifier. I'll take the high round count stages every time. If I am going to spend the day and maybe travel 2-3 hours each way for a match then i would like to put sole rounds down range. Like sarge said cater to your regulars who support the match month after month and don't try and dumb down the stages for the couple new shooters that show up. If the new shooter is intimidated by high round count more complicated stages then there are other sports out there that may be a better for for them.

I have the 35 slide with a 9mm conversion barrel that I'm using for 3 gun with the heavy magwell and it is a nice shooting gun. The slide was a prize table win so I figured i would give it a go and see how it works and like it. Don't think I would pay the 550-600 the slide runs to buy one but I got it free so why not run it

I felt one if the bosses and it was a a ton more solid than the doh flopping around. If I were shooting production it would be in one as it feels closer to my race holster

I agree a list of the names in order that they are getting called for the prize table would Definately be nice ahead of time then you can decide if your gonna stick around to get something or if your too far down and decide to just leave because you know what's gonna be left won't be worth sticking around for. That or at least speed it up and not give people forever to shop and pick fast and go because others are gonna be coming up to shop too.

The rubber band works well and keeps your neighbors happy as they generally don't like having shells bounce off a 10k+ dollar shotgun

I wouldn't refinish it. Competition shooters are not your usual gunship crowd. Most would rather have a better price on a gun that's solid with finish wear than pay more for one that's just refinished. If they want it refinished they can do it on their own. A refinish won't recoil what you pay for it with this crowd

If your gonna go dot just have the frame tapped for a frame mount.

Mod 1

Use a Racemaster here and the lock is very easy to unlock on the draw if need be chair start laying down start or other weird start that's not stand and draw. When locked it would have to break the trigger guard to fall out

Choate isn't bad but the Nordic is Definately worth the money. You can change tube length as well as the barrel nut to fit different guns and will hold up

I engage mine when I holster it and the. Give if a tug to make sure it's locked in before I remove hand. I then flip the lock off the holster

I plan on shooting mine till they wear out. When I shot skeet I had a couple hundred thousand on my Krieghoff.

I think some of it depends on how one sets up the competition rifle. If it's one with light weight buffer carrier and adj set for a specific load than it is farther from a working gun which is usualy gonna have full weight carrier buffer and non adj gas and is ment to run any ammo you can put in it. My competition guns are setup the same as a working gun with the exception of the muzzle device and will feed any ammo put in it without issue including Tula wolf etc

If it's for uspsa i would try for major. That compensator especially was made for major where their 5 port comp is for major and minor. 9mm major is weird in that it actually shoots flatter than 9mm minor if there is a decent comp on the gun and gets you major scoring as well If you wanna use minor I would make the round longer and add more powder to get the PF. 1.1 is very short for a glock. 1.145-1.155 is where it should be

Is the hood the same as a retaining strap? That said that's a crazy rule that should be eliminated as it seems nuts to require full retention on a duty style holster which your seeing more in 3 gun yet the race holsters start unlocked

Have you tried a 40 cal spring loaded bearing? I ran a 13 pound ismi usually on mine but it would run anywhere between a 11 and a 17

Check out the mini stacking cubes Walmart has with the back to school stuff and use them on one side as shelves and the rifles on the other. That said I really wouldn't waste the money on the cabinet unless your goal is to keep kids out. Regardless of stickers any thief is gonna know exactly what it is and your not gonna see an electrical box like that of that size in an apt set off the wall. That could be opened in under 30 seconds with a large screwdriver and probably under 10 with a pry bar and once seen is gonna be the first thing they go for and then has all the valuables right there together.