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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Shooting real fast.
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    Mike Rush

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Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. To OP: 115 vs 124 is something you will have to sort out yourself with a timer. Pay attention to the results and not just the "feel". 115s feel flatter in my gun, but I find it a bit easier to shoot 124s (more predictable dot movement) and don't really give up any speed on the timer. Also, Open guns have a ton of variation (in barrel length, barrel speed, port configuration) so you may get a completely different result than somebody else. In this thread we've got someone saying a load blows primers, and somebody saying that same load isn't even pushing it in terms of pressure- both are likely right about the guns they are shooting. Neither of them posted OAL which can make a massive difference in pressure. I remember somewhere in the Speer reloading manual it mentions that with a certain load they found a few hundredths of OAL made an astronomical difference in pressure and safety. Somebody posted a 115 gr load with HS6 saying it is well below the case mouth, but my 115 gr HS6 load takes a full grain more powder than the load they posted and is precariously close to the top. I'd imagine those of us with spicier setups get less brass life, too, but I buy 1x fired and leave it so I don't really know. As far as 115s having more gas to work the comp, for a given powder more powder makes more gas, but my 124 load takes more HS6 than a couple of the 115 gr loads people posted in this thread. Just wanted to point out that Open probably has the most variation out of all of the divisions as far as guns and loads go, so you have to process the answers and replies you are receiving with that context.
  2. Not trying to get in a Wikipedia duel here, but I do not understand what an paper on heating an alloy over its critical temperature and then cooling in different increments has to do with a coating that does not approach anywhere near the critical temperature of said alloy. What am I missing? That entire paper describes what happens after heating the metal to 854 c, right? I'm not a metallurgist, but I have seen spec sheets for 4150 and 416, and those advise temperatures of 840-899 c for a full anneal, and over 700 c for a sub-critical anneal to enhance ease of machining. Those alloys are used as barrel steels in part due to their ability to handle high heat. Either way, I think the OP's mystery smith is taking a stand that other builders and the coating industry don't seem to share. I couldn't find anything that indicated that these alloys would be adversely affected by a process that is under 450 c and cooler than nitride (which is used on tons of barrels including rifle barrels that see much higher pressures than a pistol barrels. If I wanted barrel/Ti comp coated gold TiN, I would find a coating company that does it on guns and talk to them.
  3. https://www.calicocoatings.com/coating-data-sheets/titanium-nitride-pvd-tin-coating/ That is the top link on Google for "titanium nitride coating temperature". It states it is suitable for steel, hardened steel, titanium and stainless steel with a process temp of 448 c. Barrel steel isn't pot metal. I think a lot of manufacturers are using either 416R or 4150 which anneal at temperatures way higher than the 250 c you are referencing. Sometimes builders have a bad experience or no experience with a coating, don't want to deal with a coating, or have some other reason they discourage customers from going with it. SVI says that hard chroming is detrimental to the quality of plated products, but most builders will do hard chrome with no apparent issues from potential hydrogen embrittlement. I usually tend to trust what builders prefer, but maybe in this case your builder uses a company that can't do that coating well or has some other reason for discouraging it. What is clear is that there are companies doing it still which I would think would not be the case if barrels and comps were exploding. I've shot a TiN coated 416 barrel/titanium comp setup in a 9 Major open gun and I have all my fingers. The gold look isn't for me, but I wouldn't be afraid to go with a suitable coating from a reputable company.
  4. I don't have any first hand experience with a skeletonized PCC, but I do have first hand experience with case head separations in blowback PCCs. Personally I want as much containment as I can get, but the blowback receivers do look cool.
  5. Barrel nuts are becoming a somewhat popular feature for other actions as well. Some custom actions are threaded for Savage small shank barrels (although they can also use shouldered barrels) but barrel companies are making nut style barrels for Remington 700s (remage), Howa, Tikka, Ruger, etc. The Bighorn TL3, a high quality custom action, also uses a floating bolt head design. I think the reason that the Savage is not more popular has more to do with the aftermarket support (although there are still plenty of stocks, barrels, etc) and the quality of the product itself. While still pricey several of the custom action makers have started selling "budget" custom actions that are high quality with a slightly reduced feature set compared to traditional actions. The Bighorn Origin and Defiance Tenacity both come in under $900, which is still pricey but very competitive when considering the amount of work that would go into truing up/adding features to a Remington or Savage action.
  6. Might be a good time to buy a lotto ticket! I think the added energy is a contributing factor but by no means guarantees a broken pin. I know there are a few aftermarket pin solutions, but I haven't seen a whole lot of positive feedback on them yet. I think the third piece of the puzzle (and maybe your bolt supports this thought) is the bolt itself. If the bore or internal features are not machined properly it could be contributing to failure. It seems like there are some bolts that break multiple firing pins and some that break none. Maybe it's not a pin problem (or at least exclusively a pin problem)?
  7. Anecdotally it seems like a lot of guys are destroying firing pins with the Hiperfires. It could also be that a lot of people are running Hiperfires so you see more examples of breakage, but it seems like dramatically increasing hammer energy isn't helping any. I've got well over 10k live fire rounds and a decent amount of dryfire accross a couple of different bolts and I haven't broken a pin yet, but I've been using an ALG trigger with JP reduced springs for most of that. The CMMG bolt had no issues in the time I ran it, and the QC 10 bolt looks great after a lot of abuse.
  8. As an update I received my 308 AR Gold on Wednesday and have shot about a thousand rounds with it since then. It ran with zero issues using my QC10 lower and bolt. My only regret on this is waiting for the PCC version instead of just buying the 308 version a long time ago. I know it doesn't work for everyone, but it seems to be working well in my setup.
  9. Prove is a funny thing. You have guaranteed certain parts will work. I've owned the Kaw Valley and Faxon barrels. None of them would take coated bullets at a reasonable OAL. Neither are particularly well suited for feeding from mags with big extensions. I've had the Kaw Valley and Faxon bolts. Faxon was fine, Kaw Valley had no extractor tension and a loose "gas key" within a couple weeks of shooting. You can't prove that parts list will work for everyone. I've had it, tried it, and moved on. There are parts that have been recently designed for our sport that represent a functional improvement over prior configurations. I don't have a problem with you stating what you like. This is an open forum and we all get to share our opinions. But if you are going to guarantee to new guys this setup will work will you be refunding them when it doesn't?
  10. I am not trying to be antagonistic but the list you have created is far from definitive. A few of the parts on your list are ones that I specifically recommend people avoid because I have used them and found them to be sub-optimal. I'd recommend anyone building a PCC from the ground up take a look at what the top PCC shooters are using. Max Leograndis' IG is a great resource. A lot of the good parts don't cost much more or even cost less than the parts on this list. For example, the KV and Faxon barrels typically take work with a reamer to chamber projectiles that are commonly used in USPSA at longer (and typically more reliable) OALs. The QC10 lower is great, but the upper is $180 and will function the same in a 9mm PCC as a $40 Anderson Sport. I'd take some of the savings from the upper and put it towards a ramped barrel (Shooting Innovations or Taccom) and the rest towards the higher end Taccom or QC10 bolt. If I were buying an optic today for PCC it would be a HS 510C. I understand there are lots of different opinions but there are no winning guns. There are guns that run consistently and guns that don't and I've found some of the parts on that list tilt the PCCs towards the "don't" category. After that ergonomics/balance and optics are individual preference.
  11. Not that I am aware of. I emailed the email under the support tab at the website and received a response saying I could be added to a waitlist if I desired.
  12. I emailed ATC about a month ago and was told that the PCC version is still in testing. There is a PCC waiting list you can be added to if you want updates. As someone who has primarily shot 19/2011s in competition the AR Gold take-up/reset takes the cake for me. It is the most natural feeling AR trigger I have shot. I thought the "two stage" design would throw me off but it was love at first bill drill. I should note that while I strongly prefer flat triggers in my pistols, I actually like the curved AR Gold trigger better than the flat. I imagine it has to do with my hand position and the grip that I used, but wicked splits are more repeatable for me with the curved. I tried a handful of different 9mm bolts with a variety of the 223 AR Gold triggers in a couple different lowers and I couldn't get any of them to run. I gave up on waiting for the PCC version and ordered the SR (308) version of the AR Gold earlier this week. I am hoping it runs with my QC10 bolt, otherwise I will throw it in my AR10 and wait for the PCC version.
  13. Th Red Oktober match from last year was a blast! Here is my build thread and match video from last year's match: If you want to see how it is done watch Samuel Travis' match from last year. He won HOA with a chopped, pinned and welded iron sighted 7.62. I shot Heavy Kalash, so I used irons and 30 round PMags with the Magpul coupler. I used HSGI Taco pouches, which work pretty well, but can snag on the lip of the AK mag. I used the coupler for most stages but most guys I saw were reloading from the belt. I monopodded on one stage and the 30 round mag height was great (I'm 6', 220 lbs, for reference). The ALG AKT is very good for the money. I'm planning on doing some work to my front sight base to get it square and pinning and welding one of the SJC AK Titans to replace the stock AMD65 comp. The big differences in setup for next year depend on if they do a night stage again. IIRC last year's was tossed due to the light not being controlled to provide competitive equity. If they do, I would strongly consider some flash suppression and definitely get some white light on the gun. The guys with good lights and/or dots were ripping through the stage with no issues like it was broad daylight. After 6 or 8 shots my eyes were toast, and I don't think I even cleared half the targets before I timed out. I probably wont get anything fancy, maybe just rig up a handheld Surefire but that light makes the sights stand out on the plates. In terms of safeties and other details, I went with the stock parts for now. They had a lot of cool vendors last year with demo guns, suppressors, parts, etc which might give you a chance to go hands on with some of the other parts you are looking at. It sounds dumb, but I would take whichever of your AKs is most reliable. Lots of guys had gun or mag issues. I liked the light, stamped, and shortened gun I shot because it let me run coupled mags without getting too heavy.
  14. I was not able to tell a difference in chamber leade in 3 Kaw Valleys and a Faxon. They all need to be loaded short if using coated. All 4 would take mag length jacketed bullets without issue though.
  15. Thanks! That makes sense. FMJs work in both of my barrels out to as long as will fit the magazine but I think most of us having throat contact issues are using lead, coated lead or plated. It definitely is going to be bullet profile dependent. I like the cost savings of coated lead vs FMJ. In 2k projectiles the savings would pay for a throating reamer, or alternately, having a smith chop and thread a JP for me.
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