Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kcobean

  • Birthday 06/30/1972

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Sterling, VA
  • Real Name
    Kelly Cobean

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

kcobean's Achievements

Finally read the FAQs

Finally read the FAQs (3/11)

  1. Just to close this out....I actually got a phone call from Mr. Black Bullets himself, Chandler Lefrain, and he walked me through a few things. First, the chamber on my new gun is TIGHT. If you have ever used an EGW case gauge, you know they are precisely to spec and very unforgiving. My chamber seems to be cut to about the same dimensions as the EGW gauge...perhaps just a tiny bit larger. Rounds that stick my new gun shut to the point that I have to grip the slide and hit the grip with my hand to get it out of battery will drop right into a Dillon 10/40 gauge with no issue, and those same rounds will also fit the chamber of my Brazos pro with no issues, so the tolerances on the new gun are just less forgiving. Second, on Chandler's advice, I moved to a Redding dual-ring carbide resizing die as opposed to the Lee U-die. Third, one thing I wasn't doing this time that I've always done before is lubing my cases. This was causing HUGE issues. If you're not lubing your brass during reloading you're doing it wrong. They say you don't have to with carbide dies, but my dies were actually ruining brass if I didn't lube it. I have always used Dillon Case Lube, and once I went back to it, it made a big difference. Fourth, the competition seating die is awesome and while we had some concern that it wouldn't work with this bullet profile, it seems to be working well Fifth, I was crimping the cases to spec, but apparently the crimp die and these bullets at this length require some caution. I think my crimp die was deforming the cases somewhere other than the the case mouth because I backed it off, used a bit less crimp and I saw a dramatic improvement in consistency. I loaded 600 rounds last night (and several thousand between when I started this topic and now), and out of the 600 I loaded last night, I had 5 that failed to gauge and 3 of those were nickel cases that split when the bullet was seated. Huge thanks to Chandler for his hand-holding....you don't see that often.
  2. How do I contact Ron? This is exactly what I’m looking for.
  3. I have a bald gun. Cheeley aggressive grip and frame, Warwick Tactical slide, KKM hybrid barrel. Time to finish it and I love the bare metal look. It seems the closest treatment out there is Nickel Boron, and I’ve seen AR BCGs done in NiB. Any reason you couldn’t NiB a whole gun? Pic of gun for reference
  4. Can you help me understand your answer? One round might drop right in with no resistance, the next round off the press might not chamber even with considerable pressure. Given that, how would this be a chamber depth issue?
  5. All range pickup used brass with varying headstamps.
  6. The BBI 200 gr bullets are .401. I don’t have a solid measurement of the chamber diameter, but given that some of the rounds drop right in and some don’t, it doesn’t appear to be a tolerance issue (other than the chamber being just tight enough that a bullet being even the tiniest bit non concentric or off axis causes it to bind) The 165 gr RNHPs I tested are .400 and have no issues, however I’m not sure if that’s because they’re smaller diameter or because the seating die does what it’s supposed to do on that bullet profile, or a combination of both.
  7. COAL is 1.18-1.185 neck diameter after a mild crimp is to spec (.423) Yes I cause gauge every single round I fire and as many fail the gauge (an EGW 7-hole) as fail the plunk test. the barrel is professionally fit and cycles the 165 grain RNHPs without issue. The chamber was cut to spec but not to my ammo. A little more info to support my concentricity theory: for the rounds that fail the gauge, If I force them into the gauge, when I pull them out the coating is shaved off of one side to some varying degree that corresponds to how much effort was required to press the round in, and some rounds drop right into both the gauge and the barrel.
  8. Alright…ordered. I hope this works. I’ve got 6600 of these things to load. thanks!
  9. I have been loading BBI 200 gr bullets for a few years and they’ve run fine in my STI Eagle and Brazos Pro 2011’s. I have a new gun that has a KKM hybrid barrel and about half of my rounds fail to pass the plunk test and about half of the remaining half will plunk “snug”. The reason, I suspect is that my seating die is not pushing the bullets in straight. It’s the Dillon seat die and I’ve tried both inserts. For contrast, I loaded 20 165 gr plated RNHP bullets and every single one plunks perfectly. Anyone using a different seat die and having better luck in a tight chamber with these BBI CFPs?
  10. Or for being left-handed. Redundant. You cut me deep bro.
  11. I have the good fortune of being able to shoot with Todd Jarret occasionally, and he's even competing in my division these days which is even better. I won't say I shoot better when I'm squadded with him, but I certainly do put on my learning hat and try to absorb how he does what he does. I just look at it as free instruction from one of the best shooters in the world.
  12. I'm a lefty...pretty much every walkthrough confuses all the righty shooters.
  13. I've thought a lot about this lately and from a mechanics standpoint, here's what I believe (and keep in mind, I'm just an A shooter and still on the journey just like everyone else): The rotation point of the gun in recoil is around the web of the thumb of your strong hand (the beavertail on a 1911/2011). So you can think of the grip of the gun like a lever, the bottom of which rotates forward as the barrel climbs and the gun rotates around the beavertail. It would seem to me that the best way to combat muzzle climb is to apply counter-force as far from the point of rotation as possible, i.e. the bottom of the front strap. If you have to sacrifice ANY pressure on the front strap to provide inward pressure with the base of your thumbs, you're probably costing yourself muzzle control. I believe this is why the mantra of 40/60 strong/weak or even 30/70 strong/weak grip pressure is so common. Your strong hand is busy holding onto the gun with as much pressure as is possible without binding up the tendons of your trigger finger. The weak hand can grip as hard as possible on the "lever" with no ill effects. If you grab a CoC or a squeeze ball and grip it as hard as you can with your strong hand minus your index finger, you'll see that it's almost impossible to relax your index finger. At some point LESS than max, you can squeeze the device and still have a relaxed trigger finger that's free to work without moving the gun. Then you use your weak hand to apply as much 'counter torque' as possible to the front strap and control rotation. In all of that, I don't see how rotating elbows out and pressing inward on the gun with the base of your thumbs adds benefit. But this is my perception, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
  • Create New...